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Author: Subject:  Tampico racecar - 69 EJ2TT (WE HAVE BOOOST!)
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posted on June 23rd, 2013 at 09:06 AM



Great news Lou !!!

Now matter how frustrating or embarrassing, gotta be happy that it was a simple and cheap fix once identified.

Now you just have 6-12 months of the "you seem to have it sorted, what was the problem ?" type conversations at every track...

;)




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posted on January 9th, 2014 at 10:03 PM



Now I just need to join the TT club.



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posted on June 25th, 2014 at 10:14 PM



been a while since I last posted so thought an update was in order.

We spun a conrod bearing at Wakefield at the nationals so the car is pulled apart for major heart surgery at the moment. Race is on to get it done before Valla.

List of things to do include;

relocate radiator
relocate intercooler
relocate oil cooler and filter
fit oil catch cans
new water pump
new high volume oil pump
new belt and tensioners
upgrade sump baffle plate
shorten sump
re-route heater lines
relocate inlet air collection pod

I purchased another twin turbo motor so will leave the bottom end as is for now otherwiseno way we will make Valla.

Will ppost photos along the build.




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posted on June 26th, 2014 at 01:43 PM



what weight oil do you use Lou?
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posted on June 26th, 2014 at 07:24 PM



Shit Louie. how did that happen?
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posted on June 28th, 2014 at 02:08 PM



I always put 5 litres in my Subaru . I would try a few different things with the radiator , like getting rid of all the squares and corners in you ducting , I would also put a divider in the centre in front of the radiator .
I wouldn't change the sump .
A new high volume oil pump will just empty the sump quicker :blush:
hope you sort it out :tu:




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posted on June 28th, 2014 at 09:10 PM



i would look more closely at the tune as a possible cause . even mild detonation can play havoc on bearings.

have also heard suby having problems with oil pickup tube cracking letting air in.




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posted on June 29th, 2014 at 08:25 AM



I did 2 360 spins a few months ago at Wakefield with a shortened Westside sump and the motor still had oil pressure.

I've often wondered about the affects of the running motor back to front
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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 06:45 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
I've often wondered about the affects of the running motor back to front


I originally thought my little engine may get car sick from running backwards.

Turns out, it doesn't.

DO a search on Rexnet Lou, there's quite a few does & don'ts regarding the wrx sump/oil capacity.
Under no circumstances should you over fill the stock sump, it doesn't help. The stock sump only takes 4.5L of oil which for a modern turbo motor is drastically under oiled. Any more & the crank & rods just start sloshing it around, then that can lead to crankcase breather problems. I know, I tried it back in 2004.

Just make yourself a bigger sump like mine & Stevies, mine takes 6L of oil, you may not need it to be any shorter since it's not a daily driver/street car. Even with 265'000Ks on the engine I have lot's oil pressure, never under 75psi at idle.

Don't fall into the trap of running really thin oil just because it's a modern motor, as soon as mine was run in, way back in 2005 I have used nothing less than Penrite 15/60 weight oil.

I am by no means an oil/motor/turbo/engineering expert, I can only tell you what has worked for me Lou Hope you get it sorted once & for all, for me, the whole idea of the conversion was to provide modern trouble free (relatively) motoring/motorsport. I'm a bit devastated that you keep having dramas.
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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 06:48 AM



& yes, the oil pick up tube is very fragile , it may as well be a plastic straw!, when I shortened mine I also had extra welds put on all the factory joins, just in case.
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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 07:45 PM



4.5L is tons for a 4cly !

I don't know about suby, but I dropped the weight of oil in my cars so its can survive at high rpm in conjunction with bumped up oil relief spring pressure.

thinner oil at higher pressure forces it to the bearings that thick oil wouldn't supply fast enough otherwise. Proven to work in my cars, UOA and inspection of the bearing show its definitely helped not spin any bearings :tu:


I imagined that would be even more true with suby engine since they run extremely tight tolerances.

I know running 20w50 in a 4L Turd stuffs the engine when its suppose to run 10W40.




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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 08:47 PM



sorry guys, I've been working on the car!

so lets answer some questions;

yep probably running too thin an oil in hindsight using synthetic 5w40 so with elevated temps proabbaly a bit on the thin side.

I've done abit of research on the sumps and baffles and am going to do some mods to mine. you are right Jak, I don't need to cut too much out as even on my car with less than 100mm clearance I have only had a couple of very small scrapes. I'll take photos of what we plan to do and post them.

Ian, the twin turbos don't like having overfill on the oil, it plays havoc with the intercooler and the vacuum hoses.

Vlad, I ruan a 94 engine which has a non programable ecu, although I am running a Mines No 2 but it is essentially a modified factory tune.




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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 08:48 PM



I'll add a few photos;

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
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posted on June 30th, 2014 at 08:56 PM



a couple of items turned up today;

and I know Ian will like the last photo on here....

And I don't want to hear any "I told you so..."

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1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 1st, 2014 at 08:01 AM



Were's the like button?
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posted on July 2nd, 2014 at 02:35 PM



Just make sure all the cover etc around the radiator are curved and not boxes and plastic and not steel or tin , just think of the out side shape of your bug and how the air flow over its curved rounded shaped body :blush::blush:
don't use that old fan , get a new fin/narrow type they work heaps better and get a suck one not a blow :blush:




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posted on July 2nd, 2014 at 09:00 PM



a bit of progress tonight. modified the heat circuit, got rid of some coolant lines of the idle air control valve and throttle body and some excess vacuum lines. Inlet manifold looks a lot simpler now. Will also remove the fuel canister and associated hoses making it a bit cleaner in the engine bay.

The oilrelocation kit arrived today so will start on the front of the engine tomorrow afterI buy a few gaskets etc.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
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posted on July 2nd, 2014 at 09:03 PM



and the IM..

ian, currently having teh radiator modified to move the outlet position as it hits the front bulkhead so moving a coupleof inches to the left and that will give us straight access between the beams. Will probably make the whole front area out of 1.5mm ally and it will be scooped and shut off so that all the air flows thru the rad. Going to have the hot air come out a backwards looking scoop in the top of the bonnet so that I have clear air under the car.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
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1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 3rd, 2014 at 08:20 PM



Lou, do you have room to fit the fan on the back side of the rad?

They work a lot more efficiently pulling rather than pushing and they obstruct the air flow a bit on the front side as well.
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posted on July 4th, 2014 at 09:13 AM



I had a heap of photos of the rad with fans in front and at the back probably posted the wrong photo. Yes intention is to put the fan behind the rad.



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posted on July 4th, 2014 at 07:45 PM



yes maybe a smaller radiator and a sucker type fan /not blower:blush:
radiator should also be rubber mounted .
with a air bleed in the top




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posted on July 4th, 2014 at 08:32 PM



The radiator is an RX7 alloy unit and as I mentioned above is being modified to move the outlet point. Also adding a bleed point at the top to allow the system to be filled and get rid of the air at the front. I am gong to increase the capacity of the filler tank at the back and it will be at the same height as before so will be the highest point by far. I am using the small radiator fan from the subi set up on the back of the radiator and then the bigger fan will be used in the back of the car for the intercooler.

This weekend will be making up the radiator mounts and the frame for the new fuel cell.

Today the 12mm oil pump arrived which will give more flow and better pressure. I installed it and the new water pump and started putting the idlers and timing belt on. Will post pictures over the weekend.




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posted on July 5th, 2014 at 11:52 AM



you need to get the radiator down low
mine sits 35mn below front guard .

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posted on July 5th, 2014 at 12:26 PM



:blush:

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posted on July 8th, 2014 at 06:08 PM



thanks Ian, mine will sit pretty low!

the third picture is a bit too low but won't be much higher than 20 mm or so.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 8th, 2014 at 06:12 PM



The grinder is my friend!

I have moved the fuel tank bracket back so will now need to make a new tank as well....

Also in the process of eliminating all emmission crap hoses,
new sumpbaffle plate and shortern sump,

new oil pump and water pump are in...

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 9th, 2014 at 10:18 AM



Looking good, careful of the angle grinder
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posted on July 19th, 2014 at 10:01 PM



some progress shots. have been busy and now have the radiator in place all bolted in. Next are the water pipes plus need to weld in a bleed point on the top of the radiator. I had the bottom outlet moved to the right 50mm so it lines up with the gap between the front torsion bars.

I'm using the smaller fan from the subi set up and will run the pipes under the heater channels on either side.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 19th, 2014 at 10:05 PM



Also have the new fuel cell being cut out and bent up so we can weld it next week. Jim at Race Clutch has my flywheel and is fitting a new pressure plate and re-doing the 3 puck clutch.

Also working on the shortened sump, here are a couple of shots of the mock up.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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posted on July 19th, 2014 at 10:10 PM



And finally the new 2into1 intercooler has arrived......

will be making up a bracket to hold it in place tomorrow and closing in all the air flows. It weighs a tonne though which suprised me. I need to modify it slightly as it doesn't have a blow off valve mounting.

I am also going to mount the larger subi radiator fan to it so it is constantly running.

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1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising :yes:
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust :fakesniff:
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief :smilegrin:
1960 beetle - old school low & slow :smirk:
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