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Author: Subject: 1967 Split Window Panel
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posted on January 29th, 2004 at 08:45 PM


The beam is coming out of the bus to be played with and hopefully narrowed. It has been a while since anyone has been in and around this as you can see.. We are looking to get this out. Getting it out is another thing. Anyone help me with getting the steering arm off the front end? Undid the nut(and split pin) but the arm won't come up and therefore out.. Anyway..
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posted on January 29th, 2004 at 08:46 PM


End of another day. Tracking down type 3 rear to go in these holidays as well, so hopefully we might see some action with mods there too..



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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 11:16 AM


you da man



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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 11:23 AM


What type of rear swing or irs jim?

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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 05:58 PM


Rear swing...

Can anyone help with that steering arm and removing it from the beam itself?
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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 07:05 PM


Jim,

You need to buy a tie rod end breaking tool - not the pickle fork variety but the one with 'jaws' and a bolt you screw down to pop it (can drag one out and take photo if I really have to).

Generic one that will work is about $20 - $30 at any auto store like autobahn etc

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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 08:19 PM


Really? Just to get this one bolt out of the hole it is in?

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Man that sucks, but anyway. Wouldn't mind a pic if you could please Rob. And I haven't forgotten about you either Rob..
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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 08:40 PM


another way is to place a dolly (or heavy hammer head, a lump hammer would be good) on one side and give the opposite side a good hit with another hammer. the pin (the bit the nut goes on) fits in a taper and a thump with the hammer on opposing sides momentarily opens the hole part enuf to release the friction grip in the taper. When done properly, the bit with the pin part just pops up and is easily lifted out. good luck.



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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 08:55 PM


space is a bit tight for any shock stuff Tony
.....hammering often leads to mechanical disaster and/or personal injury!

(but then experience is the best teacher too Jim......)

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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 09:00 PM


p.s. the toll will be handy to undo yer tie rods ends too. You won't actually get the drag link out unless you undo the steering box end as well. You won't get the beam out unless you remove the drag link completely (and the front shift rod for that matter as well)....

You need a manual too Jim methinks.

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posted on January 30th, 2004 at 11:00 PM


yeh, just buy the tool, you will find yourself using it all the time once you've got one!!!!
good luck, it's always a challange removing parts which havn't budged for far too many years:D

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posted on January 31st, 2004 at 01:53 AM


i have same prob with LH tierod.

undo castle nut, spin it round- secure top with lever down,
hammer up from bottom on castle nut....

no go...

RH side fell apart but LH is stuuuck
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posted on January 31st, 2004 at 05:21 AM


Never ever hit the nut up, you'll do more harm than good.

You can see from the pic where it's been hit before & that's where YOU hit it.
If you want to keep the tie rod end, put the nut back on so if you have a miss you get the nut not the thread.




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posted on January 31st, 2004 at 08:31 AM


Hi JIM
Its really best to get a manual and also use the tool, it is $20-$30 but as people have said before, you will get your moneys worth out of it.
And NEVER hit a threaded rod with a hammer, always put the nut on and hit that.
Welcome to the joys of owning a splitty,
I am used to doubleing the time I think things will take .
And also double or triple the amount of cash you think it will cost.
But it will be worht it in the end, if that ever arrives.
Cheers from
Mr Cynical.:jesus
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posted on February 1st, 2004 at 04:47 PM
tie rod tool


tool for breaking (err - that's releasing) tie rod ends etc etc


http://users.pipeline.com.au/hoopty/tierod_tool.jpg

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posted on February 1st, 2004 at 06:38 PM


you arent perhaps mounting the type 3 rear higher than the stock rear would you . . .. . thus giving you a drop and keping susp geometry the same....... just a thought, dont know how much room there is but it'd be just like channeling the rear :)



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posted on February 2nd, 2004 at 09:49 AM


Adam, this is the front.

Thanks folks. I'll go get one of those jigger-ma-whosey-whatsits...

I'll let you know.




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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 11:26 AM


Good stuff Jim keep it up.



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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:03 PM


Back into it today. Firstly, my hotty new fridge, and getting closer to the end product. It was cream, you probably know the type..
The goal is to have it Matt Black, which I finished today, as you'll see, but also have flames coming from the bottom, but only on the bottom half. Anyway, the chrome is okay, but not great. The actual mechanics of the fridge are okay, after I replaced the electrical plug, see pics, I plugged it in, and away she goes!! Nearly finished, but not quite...
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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:06 PM


Still a bit to go, other than the flames I mean, but its getting there..
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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:10 PM


yeh, i know jim hehe, i meant the rear end tho??



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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:14 PM


Nah, the same. They have to be mounted the same, and modified and so fourth..

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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:31 PM


One of the first things I did today was go buy one of those tie roddy thingies.. Then wrapped it on the bolt in question, a few turns later, and VIOLA!! Man this thing is awesome.
There was some carnage however, the shift rod tube was our first casualty of war.. Upon closer inspection, it was rusted pretty badly internally, so it was bound to happen sooner or later anyway.
Therefore, the grinder came out, and cut the tube, and the beam dropped a little further... Anyone got a spare shift rod tube? :)
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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 07:40 PM


I then pondered how the hell to disconnect the brakes, as the cable is literally holding the beam up. Couldn't wrap my head around how to undo the pin that connects the cable to the brake pedal assembly, so I decided to get into the tie rods.
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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 08:11 PM


Is this normal? A third shock?
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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 08:16 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by BenettonVW
Is this normal? A third shock?


steering damper;)

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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 08:58 PM


Of course! Guess I've never been under a bus and pondered before.. Just looked wierd..



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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 09:47 PM


there should be a steering damper on a beetle and a notch aswell .
when I changed beams I undid the linkpins and left the spindles and wheels connected to the brake lines and sat them on crates I didn't see the need to do more work than neccesary.
Oh! and when the beam comes out keep an eye out for shims on the chassis and try to put them back the same way I believe they are important for alignment




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posted on February 4th, 2004 at 10:00 PM


Ahh.. I wondered that. Disconnecting the brake cable? (I would think it would be some sort of rear brakes cable that is other than the handbrake.. I know how stupid that sounds.. Maybe it is the clutch cable.. I am getting confused now.. :( )

As you can see, I still have my learners with buses..




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posted on February 5th, 2004 at 03:39 PM


You will have to diaconnect the two Handbrake cables( at the base of the lever in the cab) also the clutch cable and the shift rod (replace the shift rod nylon bush when you put it back) and presto the beam should come out
have fun
S




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