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 shokwave2
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 12:38 PM |
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I was thinking of buying a pre-made shelf as well, but i wanted one with a compartment or lid, instead of lifting the whole shelf to get something
from underneath.
My shelf cost me $15 to build. All i had to buy was one larg piece of MDF. I already had a jigsaw, drill, screws, paint. And it took about 2 hours
from cutting to painted to installed.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 02:32 PM |
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Joel!
That is definitely another major factor in why I have built my own.
I'm going to take her out tonight, basically do the following.
- Get a flat head screwdriver and take out all the staples holding the fabric down on the back and sides.
- Slowly peel the speaker cloth back.
- Unscrew the parcel shelf from the sides underneath that are holding it onto the base.
- Push the parcel shelf as far back as possible and then screw back in.
- Attempt to lock the back seats back into place.
- If all goes well, cover the parcel shelf with spray adhesive and recover the parcel shelf with the material.
Hopefully this will be achievable within a two hour timeframe. Need to get it done as soon as possible as it is very dangerous, as you said, to be
driving around without the back seats locked in properly. They sure did give me an inline fuse and it is fitted right down to the battery, the wiring
job was done by a mate the first time and is absolutely perfect, but I had to run the RCA cables a second time due to a stupid issue.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 02:34 PM |
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Shockwave,
Unfortunately the Mitre 10 down the road only sold sheets of MDF for $40.
I decided if I got all the measurements down, they can cut it all for me.
We had to cut the angles on the parcel shelf, speaker holes, subwoofer hole and a hole where the wires were to go ourselves.
It took about four hours all up to complete, wiring and everything done.
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Smiley
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 03:21 PM |
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Hey Sebastien
Great to see you getting stuck into your car!
I bought my first Beetle at the start of grade 12, and it's been all downhill from there 
Here are few pictures of the shelf I built for her, it's very solid and has a removable panel in the top. I built it to house two 6x9 speakers that I
bought. And the back seat is a very snug fit up against it.
There are two pieces of angle riveted onto the firewall which hold the back up and support the lid when it is in place.
And there is a large piece of angle with the ends bent to shape that runs along the front edge. It supports the front of the lid and is riveted to the
sides to hold the front of the shelf up. The seat falls back into it's stock location against the stops but also seals along the front of the
shelf.
As for the actual shape of the shelf itself. That took me a few weekends of trial and error and lots of measuring. My shelf doesn't sit flat, it's
angled slightly upwards towards the back of the car. I first made a few templates from cardboard. Then one out of Masonite, and finally the MDF one
fitted. The back edge is curved and chamfered to match the car. It took a long time of sanding and trial fitting. But I'm happy to say it was a
prefect snug fit, then I covered it with marine carpet. It took quite and effort to make but it's one of the parts of the car that I'm proudest of
because it turned out so well.
I hope this offers some inspiration to you, and keep up the great work!!
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 03:33 PM |
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Hey Smiley!
Well, I can't say I got mine at the very start of Year 12, it was about half way through 
As for what you have done, it is bloody awesome!
Albeit, I can't actually install a shelf that has a cutout for the luggage as that is where the subwoofer is housed. However, there are little
sections underneath the speakers on the side, that I could easily use to store little things. I just use the backseat for my luggage anyway, hence why
the subwoofer is there.
The parcel shelf, mine, is a perfect fit, but I mounted it wrong and that is where the current issue has arisen from. But, I'll be fixing it tonight
if time allows, shouldn't be too difficult, but touch wood it is a simple fix.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 05:55 PM |
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Alrighty, so the job only took about half an hour to do!
Basically I pinpointed where the current screws were, unscrewed (through the fabric) making sure not to tear the cloth nor twist it. I then pushed the
parcel shelf right up flush against the rear of the luggage area and started screwing them in.
The front ones went in extremely easy (as they had already been put in before in the current position) and the rear ones were a bit of a struggle as
there isn't a lot of hand room there!
But now, it is all perfect and currently looks like this.
The moment of truth was when I pushed the back seat back into place and it locked perfectly. I then checked out the gap between the parcel shelf and
the rear. It was non existent again!
I then coloured in the top of the screws with a permanent marker until I can source some screw caps to put over them. Then, she'll look perfect!
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on July 26th, 2011 at 10:32 PM |
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Good work. I just love it when a plan comes together.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 27th, 2011 at 12:26 AM |
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Me and you both Jeff, me and you both!
Have still got a lot to do before my final design/idea is reached, just ordered the last parts to finish it off and then it'll be complete!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 27th, 2011 at 09:37 AM |
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While waiting for everything to come in the post, it is finally time to get back to enjoying the drive that she delivers.
It is great fun to drive Zelda, albeit she is very loud now and people turn to stare, but I guess they were doing that anyway due to the loudness of
the exhaust.
Really hanging out for these new parts that are coming, she'll look beautiful once they're all on.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 06:07 PM |
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This morning was very interesting indeed. On the way to school, one of the fuses popped. The fuse for my speedometer.
So, basically I had no warning lights, and for some reason my indicators weren't working. I knew exactly what fuse had blown, but it still worried me
with the lack of indicators again. Got home and replaced the fuse, so everything is all good again.
However, I have a feeling that the current sound system is having a huge load on the engine. Specifically the alternator (mine is an alternator,
right? Not a generator?) with the amount of power the subwoofer draws, it must drain the battery pretty quickly and in turn the engine has to charge
the batter more. It just seems to be idling very low on the way home, it may be time for a service...
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kaiisons
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 08:46 PM |
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pretty sure all type 1 engines have a generator standard. can buy kits to convert. http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/shop/alternator-conversion-kit-j11505.html
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 09:40 PM |
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No, the later ones came standard with an alternator. You can get bigger alternators too if you need.
Post a picture Seb.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 10:04 PM |
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This is her currently Jeff, she's a 1500cc single port, so not the original spec engine unfortunately.
Am I correct in assuming that the new load of extra power consumption by this new sound system could cause the engine some sort of distress?
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Smiley
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 10:24 PM |
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That's definitely a genny.
I would recommend upgrading to an alternator if you have the means.
I have one to handle the bigger lights on my Baja and it handle it like a champ.
Smiley 
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 28th, 2011 at 10:53 PM |
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Smiley,
So I'm definitely correct in assuming that the heavier load on the engine from the new sound system could very well be causing Zelda to idle a lot
lower than usual?
Or is that something else entirely?
I'm thinking that next year I invest in a whole new engine. I don't want to do any short term fixes, if it means disconnecting the subwoofer I will
do it until the new engine is built and installed. Unless of course I can source a 1600cc twin port with an alternator already on it for a grand or
so, not in too bad of a condition. However, that may be me dreaming a little.
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kaiisons
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 12:49 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by beetleboyjeff
No, the later ones came standard with an alternator. You can get bigger alternators too if you need.
Post a picture Seb.
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Shows what I know about type 1s haha.
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Joel
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 10:11 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Smiley,
So I'm definitely correct in assuming that the heavier load on the engine from the new sound system could very well be causing Zelda to idle a lot
lower than usual?
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It's a viscous cycle, the drain from the stereo loads up the generator which slows the revs down which drops the charge even further thus reducing
revs further.
The main reason Generators went out of fasion for alternators is generators don't charge much at idle, the higher the revs, the more voltage they put
out which is then regulated.
Alternators charge at the same rate be it idle or valve bounce.
I'd bet also 38 year old tired wiring and ignition switch would be delivering less than 12 volts to the coil.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 10:45 AM |
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So in other words Joel, get a new alternator for it?
Because it sounds like that is the best way to go regardless of cost... How hard is it to install a conversion kit for it? Or should I just continue
to use the current generator and wait until sometime next year when I'm thinking I am going to get a brand new engine?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 11:59 AM |
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If I was to purchase the following, that would solve my issues? Is this all I need to convert it to an alternator or is there more needed?
https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=14479
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Joel
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 08:56 PM |
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Yep.
Non chrome is probably cheaper and will look better in a few years time.
Trust me taiwanese chrome will have a lovely shade of rust brown to it after a few months in a car with a vented engine lid.
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on July 29th, 2011 at 10:53 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Yep.
Non chrome is probably cheaper and will look better in a few years time.
Trust me taiwanese chrome will have a lovely shade of rust brown to it after a few months in a car with a vented engine lid.
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Joel, mine is 4 or 5 years old, and the chrome is still fine.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 30th, 2011 at 12:22 AM |
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Well looks like I know where my tax and next pay check are going!
Engine bay will look nice and weird once one part is chrome and the rest is dirty as all hell!
Might have to get the degreaser out
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 11:27 AM |
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My twelfth fuse kept popping, so I'd lose all my speedometer warning lights and blinkers.
It was an 8amp fuse, so I replaced it with a 16amp and everything is all good now.
I'm allowed to do that, right?
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STIDUB
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 11:51 AM |
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is your stereo drawing power from that circuit by any chance? check the original, it may of been the wrong one but too high a rating fuse means it
doesnt blow other stuff on the circuit do. check it over use the right fuse
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on July 31st, 2011 at 03:22 PM |
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Alright, I'll see what I can find. I'm pretty sure we just put it on one that was linked to the ignition for the head unit.
I'll see what I can do
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 2nd, 2011 at 08:59 AM |
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I have noticed that Zelda is running a lot different since installing the sound system.
I'm assuming that it has something to do with the lack of electricity being generated, could this result in low idle revs and my fuel consumption
going crazy?
I really hope that I can get this alternator kit as soon as possible.
Oh, I got new side mirrors, reproduction black ones and got some billet door handles from Classic Vee Dub!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 11:23 AM |
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Been a while since I posted on here, but I have some bad news.
Two days ago I drove to school, thinking nothing of the rain as we had fixed the holes in the air box. I finished school, it had been pouring with
rain throughout the day, and I got into the car. First thing I saw was a massive wet patch on the carpet underneath the passenger side of the dash,
and then I looked closely and it was all on my side too, more on my side than the passenger side.
I didn't expect her to start, as she barely starts now with the subwoofer and lack of an alternator combination. She started but was even more lumpy
than before. The test was whether or not any fuses blew or if my indicators were going to work or not.
I got all the way home and then it happened. My indicators stopped while I was indicating into my own driveway. So I got honks and everything from
people behind me until I realised what had happened. I stuck my hand out of the window and continued to drive into the driveway. Do you know how hard
it is to turn right with one hand out the window and the other hand slipping on the steering wheel?!
So, I decided, once I parked her under the carport, it was time to find out what the issue was once and for all. and I'm pretty sure I found it, I
found where the actual leak was. In the top left hand corner, there are two holes that are underneath the window seal from what I can gather. It is
here that I am pretty sure the water is coming from.
So what I did was, there was this foamy hard stuff that was lining the bottom of this side. We didn't touch it last time as from what we could see,
it was holding up pretty damn good. But, I took a closer look and there was a gap between where the foam ended and where the metal started. I had to
shovel my way through this foam shit to see where the holes were. And boy did I find them.
Lining the bottom of the whole side, there is rust. This rust has eaten its way through the metal. Meaning that the bottom on this side doesn't even
touch the back. There are also two prominent holes in the back of the ari box. I don't think that these really matter if I solely block up where the
water is coming from. Obviously it comes through the grates at the top of the bonnet, but it comes from this other place now and this other place is
what is causing the issues.
It is in the following crevice that the water pours in. It isn't a little leak, it is a steady flow of water that actually comes in. Somehow I don't
think it is meant to be there, but I just thought I'd check if it actually is or not? Because if it is meant to be there, then I'll have to fix the
rust holes, if it isn't meant to be, then I fix the culprit of where the water comes in.
And yes, I did fail at siliconing it up. It was going to be a quick fix, but soon after I realised what I had done I tried to get it all off. Some
remnants still remain however.
Also, I got a pair reproduction black side mirrors and a pair of billet window winders. Next up is some new door panels and some chrome door pulls.
I'm seriously considering just buying a new engine instead of getting an alternator kit and installing on my current one. I guess we'll have to wait
and see what happens at work...
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 Bizarre
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 11:48 AM |
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is that in the air box??
You are better off sealing the vents up good and propper.
A new window seal would work wonders as well
Futue te ipsum!!!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 11:51 AM |
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Bizarre,
Sure is in the air box, I got a few other photos of where the rust holes are as well if you want me to put them up on here...
So, you mean the vents where the water can come in from above the bonnet lid? I think it is where the window washer thing used to go, but has been
removed since.
But replacing the window and window seal is a massive job, right? Because my windscreen is already scratched to pieces, it'd probably be best if I
replaced both at the same time...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 6th, 2011 at 12:05 PM |
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This is the aforementioned grates where the water gets in, situated above the bonnet lid, between the bonnet and the front windscreen. It is directly
into the air box, kind of a design flaw if you ask me...
These are also the two rust holes that I found while digging out the foamy stuff.
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