| [ Total Views: 3705 | Total Replies: 257 | Thread Id: 27295 ] |
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 65busser
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| posted on June 14th, 2004 at 10:10 PM |
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Pick the trick
Is the needle out of a bug speedo? Yeh ok kkk got it.
BTW Rob, do you have a genie or a magic wand or something? I just wish I could make my head work like that. And you did it with a runny nose!!!
[Edited on 14-6-2004 by 65busser]
[Edited on 14-6-2004 by 65busser]
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 splitbusaustralia
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| posted on June 15th, 2004 at 06:00 AM |
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COME ON DOWN
Gees - good pick. So close that I'll award the crownie!
The speedo is all original for a post 60 ish (?) Oz bus speedo.
50s speedos had the 'matchstick' needle and two indicator
arrows at the top with green plastic. Post 60 had the plastic
speedo needle (as above) and the single diamond indicator
arrow with red plastic..
As Leo is a 62 the speedo is correct but the end of the speedo
needle was chipped and fragile so I had to clean it up and
shorten it by about 2mm!
The speedo needle is too short!
Good job!
RobK
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Daniel
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| posted on June 15th, 2004 at 06:56 AM |
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That's the best step by step I've seen for securing safari's. I'm definately going to be doing that with mine. Thanks for that! 
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Grey 57
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| posted on June 15th, 2004 at 09:57 AM |
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Beautiful work as always Rob.
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KruizinKombi
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| posted on June 15th, 2004 at 10:55 AM |
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I never get tired of this thread Rob, seeing your progress gives me a sense of fulfillment, even though its not my bus!! :thumb
Kruizin Kol
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Zimblewinder
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| posted on June 21st, 2004 at 08:13 PM |
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great stuff. Got into restoring my speedo the other day and the needle was about the same condition (aging) with some very fine cracks too. Sorry to
say it exploded into about a million pieces:repuke
The only good thing is I have a second speedo dated 58 in better conditon. I was hoping to flog this one for a delux clock. Oh well....
Where did you get the gels for lights? Thanks for the pics very interesting. |
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VolksFolks
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| posted on June 21st, 2004 at 09:10 PM |
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Just fantastic rob, feel soo guilty as i hav'nt yet started my bus, added to my favs for future requirments, just one Q, do use argon gas or co2 mix,
thanks and keep up the awsome work
Andy
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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kombi_mad
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| posted on June 27th, 2004 at 06:49 PM |
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i saw a late 50's bus that was soo psycodelic they had even freaked out the speedo with rainbows, tyedies and acid flashbacks..it looked so cool..
hey,thanks for the info Rob, awsome, and im sure extremly handy for alot of us.
ash
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ducky
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| posted on June 27th, 2004 at 10:25 PM |
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love your commitment
Baby Loves to Mumbo
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kombi_mad
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| posted on June 28th, 2004 at 01:45 PM |
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whats with the crome in the middle of this...speaking of speedo's....just curious...has someone with a crome addiction done this, or was is
standard
[Edited on 1-7-2004 by kombi_mad]
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on July 11th, 2004 at 06:44 PM |
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Leo progress - fitting seat belt mounts in a splitbus
Greetings All,
Still hacking away at Leo, and thought I'd post an update
covering fitting seat belt mounts.
Australian Design regs (ADRs) require that a mount be made of
1/4 inch plate and have a surface area equivalent of 50 sq cm
(sorry about the mix of measures - just the way it is!).
I make two sorts of mounts - one type for the under floor mounts
measuring 5 cm by 10 cm (5cm is a standard width when buying plate) for the 'lap' part of the belt
and another for pillar mounts measuring 3cm by 17 cm (3cm
is another standard width for 1/4 inch plate) for the 'sash' part of the belt. Both produce
the surface area required by current ADRs.
Drill a hole through the centre of each and weld on a suitable
nut (gees I've had a bit of a brain fart and forgotten the standard bolt seat belt thread and nut. I'll look it
up again and post...).
from the other side
For the under floor mounts drill three holes. One for the bolt and
two others to puddle weld the plate in place....
Offer the plate up and hold it in place with the seat belt bolt through the middle hole.
Use the other two holes to weld in in place ..... voila!
(the hole beside is where an old hole was....)
For the pillar mounts, drill three holes in the pillar and cut a small 'flap' opening.
Weld a bit of wire to the back of the pillar mount and lower it
through the flap....
Hold the plate in position with the wire while you insert the bolt into the
plate through the middle hole to hold it in position. Break off the wire. Use the top
and bottom holes to puddle weld the plate in place. Close the
flap, weld up and tidy everything up. B pillar mount for
the 'sash' in a twin cab.....
C pillar mount for a sash for the rear seat...
Also painted the passengers compartment floor and the front
floor with 'rust bullet'....
And stripped the dash to bare metal for repainting (everyone sees
it and it doesn't take long to strip)
The whole inside is in primer now. It's just drying and I'll
take another coupla pics shortly and post.
Basically Leo's main body is rust repaired and now in primer.
Now I'm going to 'rust bullet' underneath and go right through the running
gear. RobK dropped spindles on a king a link pin beam in front with bay discs. Bay
IRS rear with Type 4 engine conversion. Rewire. I'll get that
done and then paint. I'll take pics for little 'how-tos' as I go.
regards
RobK
in primer....
[Edited on 11-7-2004 by splitbusaustralia]
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greenbus
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| posted on July 11th, 2004 at 11:23 PM |
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Rob, this is more than helpful,I was actually making inquiries today about what to do seat-belt wise....thanks heaps....
Oh...and I'll have those spindles for you shortly
Regards...
Elton
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on July 17th, 2004 at 04:25 PM |
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Leo sat 17th Jul
Pulled the front end out of Leo, cleaned up underneath
and painted with rust bullet..
Will clean up front beam (yuk - awful job that's going to be)
and put it back in next...but not this weekend! Bus free day
at the footy tomorrow...Go Dees!
RobK
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Adam_C
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| posted on July 18th, 2004 at 06:27 PM |
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*CKING GO THEM DEES .... smashed em, rob, i wish my car was as clean as that is, and is going to be! thats awesome keep up the work...... by the way
how did u get it that clean?
[Edited on 18-7-2004 by Adam_C]
Adam
Adzslick@iprimus.com.au
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 vw54
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| posted on July 18th, 2004 at 06:42 PM |
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I wish you would hurry up n finish my CAR !!! :kiss
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matara
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| posted on July 18th, 2004 at 09:41 PM |
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Yeah Rob, How can your garage floor look that clean and where did the 40 years of accumulated dirt disappear to? Spill the beans
Cheers
Steve
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on July 19th, 2004 at 10:21 AM |
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Send more money Birchall
dave - you need to send another $10k ASAP! (and I'd prefer
not to send Gurkhan around for it this time....)
Dees did whip em although the first half was typically
Bulldogs scrappy and aaron davies did his hammy just in front of
us - Telstra surface looks like an ice rink in spots!
Wasn't that hard to clean underneath cos most of it is
'new' metal (including rear floor)! Otherwise pressure wash,
pressure wash, pressure wash, rotary wire brush and maybe
sand blast a few areas like corners etc where the wire brush
won't reach....
Pleased that it held up under pressure washing this time!
When I first bought Leo home I pressure washed him for the
first time and the pressure washer ending up literally chopping out
most of the outriggers, inner rockers and centre chassis sections! hmmmmmmm.......
RobK
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KruizinKombi
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| posted on July 19th, 2004 at 11:42 AM |
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Nice job Rob!! Damn that Rust Bullet looks good!
Kruizin Kol
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Zimblewinder
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| posted on July 20th, 2004 at 11:08 PM |
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Hi Rob, found the (now) asian/oceania supplier for rust bullet and hes going to send me some asap. If anyone else is after this stuff then try direct
like Rob did. You PAY to get it from the USA via Singapore. They told me direct was out to Japan. BUMMER. Thanks too for the note about ADRs.
Cheers
Oh while we're on ADRs anyone know how Ill get along trying to run with semaphores and bumper mounted accesory lights for indicators in Oz? I really
dont want to leave the incorrect bullets on the front or end up with monster orange glass bowls. Just some discreet (until theyre flashing) bumper
line pedestal indicators like on the classic look motorbikes these days. What do you think? (sorry to hijack some space)
[Edited on 20-7-2004 by Zimblewinder] |
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karmannghia60
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| posted on July 21st, 2004 at 10:00 PM |
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U r a patient man Rob
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jenz58
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| posted on July 22nd, 2004 at 11:49 AM |
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Wow...looking a bit different to the first pics you put up..
So THE big question...When do you think you'll have it finished by? 
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on July 22nd, 2004 at 12:57 PM |
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G'day Jen,
Dyl (my 11 yo) and I will drive leo to the 05 Easter nationals.....
I went back and actually checked the early pics and noticed some weren't
coming up because I changed servers - they're showing
now.
There's also bit of a glitch some where in the middle pages of leo's
history where the description and pics are a bit jumbled. I'll
try and sort this out when I have time....
Patience? I'm positively streakin'
along here! 8-)! Haven't been going a year from start date yet!
There was a question regarding MIG gas I didn't answer too.
I do use the argon CO2 mix. There is a new cheaper argon
'lite' mix being offered by BOC with less argon content - I'm happy to
pay the 'extra' for the heavy cos anything with less argon in
it is going to burn hotter and give more warpage problems...
(sorta the reverse of beer where drinking heavies is what gives
you the warpage problems ........ )
RobK
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on July 31st, 2004 at 05:28 PM |
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Leo - MC conversion, dumpin'n'discin.....
Well,
Everyone is off at Valla and I don't really have anything to drive......next time 8-)...
But I don't mind too much - today I got to do something I have
been planning and building for quite a while.....
Firstly I converted leo to the later twin circuit 72-79 bay bus
master cylinder. This is an easy conversion really..
You need to buy a 72-79 master cylinder and fit a MkI golf
reservoir and make a half inch spacer and buy some longer
mounting bolts and that's it really - just bolts in from there.
And in place under the bus. The reservoir filler hole is just
above (although I taped over it to paint underneath)..
Started cleaning up leo's front beam. Scraped, chiselled, wire brushed
and sand blasted ( like to do the absolute minimum of blasting - too messy!).
A previous owner had lost one of the upper shocker bolts and
replaced with an undersized nut'n'bolt. This proceeded to wallow
out the upper shock mount hole. Had to make a sleeve and weld
in to repair.
Fitted a new center pin kit and got the beam painted.
Got the beam in. This is the tool to measure the offset of the torsion
arms. You use this measure to calculate that proper arrangement of the link pin shims to get the camber right.
Leo came in with the factory correct offset of 7.5mm (onya leo)!
Fitted a set of RobK dropped spindles (with camber correct).
Then gathered a few bits'n'pieces and
And the 'big' shops say it can't be done on a king and link pin beam!
You have to fit a 68-69 beam (and drop it 6 inches on adjusters)
to get discs on the front of a lowered splitbus. Hah! (there's no doubt I can
be a self-congratulatory wanker at times....).
(humming hotel california as I tend to do when in a self-congratulatory wankerish mood....)
RobK
[Edited on 31-7-2004 by splitbusaustralia]
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moonlite6t6beetle
A.k.a.: Corey Marriott
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| posted on July 31st, 2004 at 05:55 PM |
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NIIIICE
Moonlite... 54 and 66 beetle
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nbturbo
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| posted on July 31st, 2004 at 08:45 PM |
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So what have used for your disc conversion.I want to do it to a country buggy front end and I imagine that it would use the same set up you have.I
want mine to end up with 5x130 stud pattern.Any info would be much appreciated
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cray
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| posted on July 31st, 2004 at 09:14 PM |
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beerdoc
A.k.a.: Doc
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| posted on August 1st, 2004 at 12:00 PM |
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Not bad for dees supporter
Hi RobK,
Love watching your work and would like to catch up one day cause after I get these Lbugs out of the way for Daughters I intend to do up a splittie.
Cheers Doc |
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pyr0
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| posted on August 1st, 2004 at 01:02 PM |
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nice work i always love seeing your updates on your splitty.
:thumb
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on August 2nd, 2004 at 10:35 AM |
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Disco dilemma
Hmmm,
Long reply coming NBturbo. In short, I’m not sure I’m going to be much help to you. I wanted 5x112 PCD (bay bus) discs to match what will be in
the IRS rear. However, I had to modify/make hubs and find different bearings etc to make this happen on splitbus spindle stub axles. Also had to make
caliper brackets.
Another option for me would have been to IRS the rear and retain the wide5 pattern (IRS from 68/69 bus) and then put a wide5 disc conversion on the
front. At the time I began working on this only the CSP kit was available at something like $2000+ landed here. Recently John Sherman in QLD has
been offering wide5 disc conversion for splitbus at something like $700………I might have looked at that if he’d been on the market a bit
earlier……
It is (apparently I haven’t done it) a lot easier to fit Porsche 944 discs (5x130 PCD) on a splitbus front end. I have friends in the US who do it
a lot. It seems you can actually use the stock Porsche hubs and just make up new bearing spacers to get em sitting on the stub axle at the right spot.
Not entirely sure what the story is with caliper brackets – but they’re probably the easiest part to make if needed. I just didn’t know how I
was going to get 5x130 PCD on the back legally (without adaptors or redrilled drums) if I went this way (porsche stuff is also quite expensive here,
much cheaper in the US and Europe………….)
Anyway, none of this is any good to you because the CB spindle stub axle is different to the splitbus spindle stub axle. Same length but much smaller
in diameter – more beetle’ish (I have posted a photo comparing the two here somewhere…). I think you’d have to start looking at beetle disc
or disc conversions and seeing if a simplish solution like different bearing spacers would get em on the CB stub axle. Beetle disc conversion with
the 5X130 PCD option are around? I’d try and get the dimensional specs on the hubs and bearings for one of these and see if it looked like they
could be made to work on the CB spindle stub.
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kombi_kid
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Good Kid too many projects
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| posted on August 2nd, 2004 at 11:11 AM |
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looks great rob i love ya work and you are a great inspiration!!! so u gonna offer the few things needed to fit bay discs??? come on ya know ya
wanna!!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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