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 nbturbo
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| posted on August 16th, 2012 at 10:02 PM |
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Made another 1 last night-on a roll now.
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nbturbo
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| posted on August 16th, 2012 at 10:07 PM |
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Got my new rear engine plate machined-have to drill all the mounting holes still.It's made with 5mm extra ally at the trans mounting face and the
spigot to locate the bellhousing-but the rest of it is exactly the same dimentions as the OG Autocraft plate.
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nbturbo
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| posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 07:40 PM |
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I have finished the drive plate and crank hub but still need to drill the engine plate.Couldnt figure how to hold the 2 plates together to everything
lined up.Machined a solid slug and I will use 2 6mm set screws to bolt both plates to the centre slug.I had to modify the flywheel nut - added a
spigot for the convertor spindle to locate in.If I have done all my measuring correctly-I will need three 7mm spacers to go between the flex plate and
the convertor.
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hypo-vw
A.k.a.: Wayne Penrose
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Australias 1st 10sec street beetle (Jan 2007) 10.49secs@132mph street tyres
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 posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 12:06 PM |
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I love the look of the body mods on your ute Gary . Looks like an old-school hotrod  well done mate
Team 
FASTEST ET @ WARWICK 2010 & 2011
FASTEST SPEED @ WARWICK 2011
FASTEST ET & SPEED WSID 2012
PB - 6.33@113.07(1/8) & 9.88@135(1/4)
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nbturbo
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 05:02 PM |
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Thanks Wayne-it's turned out exactly the same as the vision I had about 5 years ago when I decided to have a Drag Strip only car. Will catch up with
your tribe again in Warwick.
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20bkombi
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 05:38 PM |
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Nice work Gary!!!
I was wondering if you were going to make something to locate the converter spigot.
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
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nbturbo
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 11:11 PM |
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Aaron,was hoping the covertor spigot would seat in the flywheel bolt,but with thicker engine plate,and the spacers between the flex plate and the
convertor,it doesn't quite reach. Welding that sleeve to the bolt was the easiest way I could come up with a fix.
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 7th, 2012 at 09:42 PM |
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Finally got the TPS,cam and crank angle sensors adjusted and run the engine.Gave it 4 runs about 5 minutes each to bed the cam and rings.I made a self
primer to get oil through the engine B4 starting and it came up 110PSI straight away.We kept an eye on cylinder and barrel temps with an infared
reader and it was all good.The thing sounds awesome.Had some trouble in the bell housing with the trans drive plate.Haven't worked out what happened
yet-but the crank nut came loose and sheered off all the dowell pins.Have managed to drill them all out and have ordered new ones from Autocraft along
with some new crank nuts.It damaged the new crank hub I made,so have just finished making a new one.I made this one 1mm thicker at the drive plate
mounting face-to give me that little bit more room for the torque convertor bolts to clear.Have just got to take .020" off the thrust face to give me
.005" crank end float.Bought another piece of 6061 T-6 ally plate to make another rear engine mounting plate.I stuffed up my measurements by 2mm with
the first one.It only gave me 1mm end float for the torque convertor,when I need 3mm.
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 7th, 2012 at 09:46 PM |
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For you Aaron-I cut the convertor open tonight-looks like I may have been done.The only mod I can see is the vanes have been bronze welded.See what
you think about it.
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 7th, 2012 at 09:49 PM |
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One more.I may be able to drill the front mounting spigot spot welds out, and make a new one a bit longer to seat into the crank nut.The bronze thrust
washers all look new.
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tar76
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| posted on December 7th, 2012 at 10:04 PM |
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"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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20bkombi
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| posted on December 8th, 2012 at 12:06 PM |
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Thanks for cutting it open for me.
Did those measurements help when cutting it open??
From the photos it looks like the tips of the pump fins are bent over ( not the prittiest ).
Both the stator and turbine are stock with brass thrust bushes. The bushes you can't buy new.
Needle rollers Help a lot with stall speed, friction heat and life of the converter.
I think this converter would be good for about 4-600 rpm higher than stock, depending if you can make boost down low.
When you fix the spigot make sure the holes are clear under the pump drive.
Check internal end float before you weld it too.
I have a few more tricks that you can do to that stock converter if you want more rpm.
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
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humpty
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| posted on December 8th, 2012 at 03:09 PM |
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I really like how that ute tray is working out Gary... The next challenge is how you finish it around the back of the car... Really looking forward to
seeing how you go there.
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 8th, 2012 at 04:15 PM |
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Thanks Aaron for the tips- still have a 3mm shoulder to locate both halves to join them again. I will have a good look at the spigot for the pump
drive. This whole thing may well yet end up in a box and be heading in your direction. I will run the car first with the OG convertor have here to see
how it reacts with turbo spool and how I go holding it on the brakes. Will keep you informed. Humpty-was hoping to get a Bus rear engine lid done in
fiberglass and build it into the rear panel. Will have to have someway of stopping air getting trapped in the cover- will probably leave a 6 inch gap
just under the spoiler panel
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 15th, 2012 at 10:32 AM |
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Just finished drilling all the holes in version 3 of the rear engine mounting plate.OG is 10mm thick,version 2 was 15mm thick and the new one is 18mm
thick.The blue cylinder behind the plates is an old fire extinguisher.I welded a 1/2 inch socket on the bottom and modified the top fitting to screw
an airline with pressure reg.I used it as a pre luber before I started the engine.Set the pressure at about 15 PSI and pressure fed the oil system.Oil
pressure came up straight away after it fired.
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humpty
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| posted on December 17th, 2012 at 02:18 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
The blue cylinder behind the plates is an old fire extinguisher.I welded a 1/2 inch socket on the bottom and modified the top fitting to screw an
airline with pressure reg.I used it as a pre luber before I started the engine.Set the pressure at about 15 PSI and pressure fed the oil system.Oil
pressure came up straight away after it fired.
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Very clever....
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the privilege
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| posted on December 18th, 2012 at 10:36 AM |
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Great idea!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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modnrod
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 18th, 2012 at 11:18 PM |
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Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
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BeetleJuice
A.k.a.: Craig Paton
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| posted on December 19th, 2012 at 10:13 AM |
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Congrats, that looks SENSATIONAL!
FringeDweller
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 19th, 2012 at 01:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by modnrod
Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
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That sounds interesting.How do you get them filled?They may polish up OK,but unless they are stainless,they go off fairly quickly.They get surface
rust on them.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 06:15 PM |
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Got everything finished to put this all back together. Was wondering if .005 thou crank end float was a little too tight? I set it up last time with
.004 and it turned to shit at the crank flange. Still haven't figured what went wrong.
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modnrod
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 09:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
| Quote: | Originally
posted by modnrod
Old fire extinguisher bottles (still in date) make great NO2 bottles too, and polish up really well.
Uhm.
Ahem.
Or so I've heard........
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That sounds interesting.How do you get them filled?They may polish up OK,but unless they are stainless,they go off fairly quickly.They get surface
rust on them.
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Oops. Bugger. Missed this completely, sorry man.
2.5kg and 5kg Dry Foam extinguisher bottles are alloy. The inlet for the proper NO2 valve needs tapping, from memory 1.1/8" BSP? Maybe?
Easily measured anyway.
Nowadays $200 for a bottle is not a lot, way back then they were still $200, and that used to be heaps.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 09:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nbturbo
Got everything finished to put this all back together. Was wondering if .005 thou crank end float was a little too tight? I set it up last time with
.004 and it turned to shit at the crank flange. Still haven't figured what went wrong.
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This is common with flanged cranks.
I like.007" or more on flanged cranks, but the new bearings these days are not as good material and layers as the old days.
You can try an oil hole, 1mm, from the gallery thru the bearing to the flange face, and also coating the bearing shells,
but in the end, a quality steel backed thrust bearing is the best option.
Have a look at this post for some options:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=59063&page=2
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 6th, 2013 at 09:39 PM |
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Thanks Dave- will give it another .002 then.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 18th, 2013 at 08:55 PM |
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Made the last piece of the puzzle tonight.Had to make a new crank nut with a spigot to hold the torque convertor. Last one I made from stock round
bar,but come up with a better idea this time.I ended up with plenty of new crank nuts,so I machined the hex off one,made an ally slug to line it and
the crank nut together and migged 4 welds to hold it together.Have to get a new O ring tomorrow for the crank hub and I can lock it all up. The new
hub is really tight on the dowell pins,so have to use these jacking bolts to get it off each time.I ended up with .008" crank end float.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 19th, 2013 at 09:31 PM |
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I may have asked for help before about the tension of the crank flywheel nut- but can't find where. I have a C/M 1/34 nut and was wondering what you
blokes tension them to. Do you oil the thread or Loctite it?
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on February 20th, 2013 at 05:13 AM |
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Always lubricate the threads and nut face.
I use anti-seize, but at least use oil.
Those big nuts can hadle plenty of torque.
Standard is 217ft-lbs, but I like to use as much as 500 with aftermarket FW bolts.
You may like to choose something like 350 to 400.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 20th, 2013 at 05:42 AM |
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Thanks Dave- once again,always able to help. You certainly are an early bird.
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 4th, 2013 at 04:38 PM |
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Finally got it back together again and run the engine.Have run it through all gears and it changes OK.Still having trouble with it overfuelling on
shut down-so I have put the fuel pump on a separate switch so I can turn off the fuel pump B4 turning off the ignition.It runs for only a few seconds
to shut down and now restarts OK.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArDcjZ54YSM
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 4th, 2013 at 06:49 PM |
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Nice work Gary.
good to see a nice result from all your hard work!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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