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 1916baja
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| posted on March 1st, 2012 at 08:44 PM |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fiy2TwYlfXM&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQEH4R-u6gw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7IqV61IqNg&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGMYim158PI&feature=related
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1916baja
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| posted on March 2nd, 2012 at 09:50 PM |
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Just watching those videos, the last one with frosty.... why does it seem like I'm granny shifting??? frosty seems so quick through the gears and
holds his revs up where as mine seems to drop out through the gears.... is it the way I'm shifting or is it frosty's setup??? when i am driving the
car i doesn't fell like i can shift any quicker..... but when i see the videos??? Just looking for advice/opinions....
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 matberry
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| posted on March 2nd, 2012 at 09:56 PM |
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Looks like you still have a stock ratio box.....and shifting like a granny 
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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1916baja
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| posted on March 2nd, 2012 at 10:07 PM |
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I do..... and i think i must.....
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 3rd, 2012 at 09:23 AM |
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Yeah frosty has a 1.58 third and 1.217 fourth, whereas you probably have a 1.26 third and .89.
Having the ratios closer does help with the shift speed a little
because the synchro does not have to work so hard with the rev drop,
but a lighter clutch disc and good shifter can help too.
I reckon some closer gears may be worth a couple of tenths on a car like yours.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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1916baja
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| posted on March 3rd, 2012 at 09:58 AM |
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i'm running a daikin dicc and a scat drag fast shifter.... not really happy with the shifter at the moment as it has developed a habit of grabbing
reverse when changing from 3rd to 2nd and im finding it hard to grab 3rd when accelerating... Would it be wise to experiment in flat changing with my
setup?? or would it be too much stress on everything? I will definitely go the close gears and everything you suggested in your pm when money permits.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on March 3rd, 2012 at 10:09 AM |
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check out Rose shifting , with have one of those Vintage speed old skool shifters LoL  Rancho pro comp trans .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88GI27HMoAE&feature=youtu.be
another video link from the Sydney Volkswagen Show Down 2012 in the finals against CT
CT had the head start and I red lit o well it was still fun to catch him
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfb4zeSL3XI&feature=youtu.be
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dragvw2180
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| posted on March 4th, 2012 at 10:20 AM |
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I have had a Scat shifter in some of my cars and they are pretty good , I think the shifter problem can be fixed easilly by installing an adjuster in
your shift rod, that way you can lengthen, shorten or adjust your shift rod from side to side for a perfect alignment. A quick check is to put your
shifter into first gear, remove your shifter and see if the cup is facing straight up. If it is off to either side it will not shift properly, the
other check is to put it into nutral and see if it is the same distance from the center of the cup to both bolt holes for the shifter. If pictures
would help I will be glad to take some. I have my engine and trans out now for some upgrades ( RLR REV6 clutch and a new Autocraft case ). Like Dave
suggested I would install a set of gears as money becomes available, 3.88 rp/ 3.78/2.31/ 1.58/1.21 is a nice all around box for a full bodied car for
track use only. Mike McCarthy
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1916baja
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| posted on March 4th, 2012 at 01:20 PM |
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Thanks for the advice, i'll rip the shifter out when i get a chance and have a look at it... i was actually surprised myself when i put it in as i
didn't even adjust it to get it to work.... it's probably just out of adjustment.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on March 4th, 2012 at 01:52 PM |
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What did the car weigh at WSID ?
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1916baja
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| posted on March 4th, 2012 at 02:03 PM |
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Weighed 680kg without me in it... would be 760kg with me in it.
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1916baja
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| posted on March 4th, 2012 at 05:32 PM |
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SQUAT!
Dave has always told me my car gets the mega squats on launch but no-one has ever got a photo to show me... my wife did and man is dave right! might
need to do something about that....
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1916baja
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 04:49 PM |
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Hi guys... im after some advice regarding turbo charging! after doing a bit of thinking and talking it over with Dave we are considering turbo
charging the bug with the turbo system dave has that he was going to use on his buggy before injecting it. Its a draw through system with a 650 holley
i believe, a t04 turbo and a waste gate. It has been run before on another engine so it is set up to work, question is what else needs to be done?
here is my engine combo at present in NA form
1916cc
cb cromo counterweight crank
tighe grind 148a cam (although not ideal for turbo, it will work)
cb 044 heads 40x35 with a little Dave butler magic, single hi rev valve springs
stock rockers
10:1 compression
everything is balanced
i'm running a facet style electric fuel pump
ignition is a pertronix ignitor 2 system, billet dizzy and digital rev limiter
44idf webers
So heres what we do know... we will have to lower the compression, it will be getting dual valve springs.
What we dont know is will my facet fuel pump be sufficiant? can i use my pertronix ignition system? i know the timing needs to be retarded on boost
but can we just lock the timing? it doesnt need to idle well as its a race car. Is there anything else we are overlooking?? it seems quite straight
forward... what else do i need?
The reason we are considering this is, i have N/A plans for this engine in the near future anyway... costwise, due to the mates rates turbo kit and
selling my N/A stuff it may end up costing less or the same to turbo charge than work the N/A more... on top of that from where we stand there seems
to be more to gain from a turbo.
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Stanley
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 07:47 PM |
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Ditch the facet and get some bigger fuel lines if you haven't already.
You seem to be on the right track otherwise.
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humpty
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 07:48 PM |
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Good news.... A blown Dub has got to be a good thing....
Anyway....
• If the facet can produce enough pressure (7psi), and flow enough (97-110gph), then you should be ok with that.... But a better quality pump would
be a good idea.... I have a Carter Black with 1/2" lines!!!! Over kill!!!! And it's a full return setup.... 3/8" line with a regular Carter pump
would be enough for you.
• You can lock the dissy.... 24º is the ball park.... The Pertronix should be fine.... But a programmable ignition would be better.
• Yes lower the compression, but don't go too low... 8.5 or 9:1 would be ok with PULP (I'm running 7.5:1 which I think is a tad low)... Race Fuel
a little more.... Methanol can go higher.... But it all depends on the fuel you plan to run.... Chris is running upwards of 9:1 I think as he's
running Methanol.... Maybe look at fitting copper head gaskets to achieve your comp drop.... I run .40 ones on the POS.
• Not familiar with the cam so can't comment on that.
• The carb shouldn't need to be boost referenced as your not gonna hit the street.... But it would be nice to know what actually is in there before
commenting further.
Get a good AFR o2 reader in there.... I have an INNOVATE DB series deal in both the POS and on my Bus.... They are brilliant and highly
recommended.
Fun times ahead.
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
A.k.a.: Brennden Alder
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 03:50 PM |
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Better fuel pump, swirl pot, rising rate fuel reg, big ass crank case breather set up. Rethink suspension set up as you will have a lot more power
under you right foot!! Brakes as well. A lot more than just adding the turbo and making the engine itself capable of handling the power. The car as a
whole has to as well!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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humpty
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 04:23 PM |
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No need for a swirl pot IMO.... The float bowls on the Holley are more than man enough.
No need for a rising rate FPR either.... Draw-through webers need it as do blow-through setups.
Crankcase breather is an absolute must on any high rev engine, but turbo engines need it even more.... I found oil being pushed back up the dipstick
under boost!
I have just upgraded mine with a vent from the oil filler and rhs rocker cover... The drain back is also rhs rocker cover vent.
Thinking about adding another vent to the OEM fuel pump location which is currently my oil drain for the turbo.... Not sure if both functions will
work together there.
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1916baja
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 08:10 PM |
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Thanks for the advice so far guys, much appreciated.... As far as the breather system goes there is one in place at the moment but i dare say i'll
need to up the size on all of the hose,fittings and catch can which is no big deal, i currently have it breathing from both rocker covers and the
filler neck, i guess i could run the drain back down to the oem fuel pump spot. the facet fuel pump is a real low pressure one as thats what i needed
for the webbers so a new one will be in order.
what size breathers would you recommend?
Suspension setup will certainly be tinkered with down the track, i need to have a dig around daves place to see if he has another set of type 3
torsion bars laying around! Is there a part number or specific marking they have?? from memory there is bins full of torsion bars.
Brakes should be fine... i have discs with new calipers on the front and drums on the rear. the whole braking system is new.
I think at this stage the weakest link is probably the gearbox or axles... it has a super diff and heavy duty sideplate but other than that, its
stock. If i am careful on launch i think it will be ok for a while.
As for the rest of the engine, i think it will be ok... I trust what Dave has done with the engine and i know the time and effort he put into the
build. It's a solid engine.
i dont plan on running it flat out straight away anyway as i need to learn how to drive boost as this is all new to me. We'll creep the boost up as i
upgrade other parts, ie gearbox, axles.. down the track. At this stage its more about deciding wether to spend the money on NA or cutting to the chase
and boosting it straight up, Just do it once you know, I dont have to run full boost straight up. And hell, if we try it and it doesnt work then i
guess we just go back to NA, we'll more than likely still have all the NA stuff laying around until we get it all running anyway.
Keep the advice coming guys!
Mick.
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humpty
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 09:04 PM |
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I have 13mm ID lines for all my breather hose.... That should be plenty..... I hope.... The oil drain is also that size.... As I'm running a Ball
Bearing turbo, the oil going in is minimal.... Plain Bearing turbo require more oil I think, so you might need to run a larger oil return.
I still have the old 40horse torsion bars in my car, and the stock springplates.... Was running TII bumpstops, but have since gone back the TI
versions in an attempt to get a little less spin off the line... As I have just fitted Cheater Slicks too, the spin will prolly not be an issue
now.... Building limiting straps and springplate guide plates at the moment.... Will also put lower springplate blocks to limit the downward movement
of the springplate.... Only running GR2's on the rear and stock Cofaps oils on the front.... Car currently runs very straight, but is getting light
as I'm crossing the line.... A trans lift is on the cards.
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1916baja
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 05:55 AM |
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yeah tranny lift was is on the cards for me also.... only an inch or so. where did you get oil supply for the turbo??
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humpty
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 09:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
where did you get oil supply for the turbo??
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A 't' fitting between the oil pressure switch and the crankcase.
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1916baja
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 12:19 PM |
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Righto... That's where my pressure sender is. I guess i could just put another t in there....? Or would that effect the pressure reading? Or i could
go from where my case has been tapped for full flow.... I am using a bugpack type deal for fullflow at the moment.
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Stanley
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 12:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by humpty
| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
where did you get oil supply for the turbo??
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A 't' fitting between the oil pressure switch and the crankcase.
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x 2 and no it won't impact oil pressure reading.
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typethreeking
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 06:17 PM |
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I had a 32mm breath off my case, breathers off both rocker covers ( -8 lines ) and breather off the dry sump tank and still pumped some oil into the
catch can so the bigger the better if your planning on running high boost. Probably check you head studs aswell if your running boost
[size=6] BEING ASPIRATED FEELS GREAT BUT BEING BLOWN TAKES THING TO A WHOLE NEWLEVEL...[/size].
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humpty
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 06:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by typethreeking
.... breathers off both rocker covers
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by typethreeking
....and still pumped some oil into the catch...
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There's your problem right there.... Don't vent the LHS rocker cover.... Drain it only....
If you vent it, the excess oil that gets pumped to that side of the engine (that rocker fills with oil) finds the easy way out
(instead of draining back to the sump)... That 'easy way' is straight to the atmosphere via the catch can.
Vent the crankase to the highest points possible and the RHS rocker cover only.... Your leaks will be gone.
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1916baja
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 07:41 PM |
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So you are saying run the turbo drain back to the LHS rocker cover?? I'd imagine we wont be running a hell of alot of boost straight up... enough to
get up and boogie but not enough to start exploding gearboxes (i hope)but you're right bigger the better with breathers from the word go. At this
stage the headstuds should be ok, they are only 8mm but they are CB cromoly. I have another case here that i guess i could probably upgrade to 10mm
headstuds when the time comes.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 07:48 PM |
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turbo drain back to the fuel pump hole works ok
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1916baja
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 07:57 PM |
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Was kinda thinking i'd run a big breather from there....
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humpty
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 08:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
turbo drain back to the fuel pump hole works ok
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That's the way to do it.... With your turbo position, drain the turbo to the top of the engine...... The LHS rocker cover should not
be vented at all.... Only drained to the sump.... And even then, only in extreme situations is that really needed.... By extreme I mean large capacity
and high revs.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on May 9th, 2012 at 08:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
Was kinda thinking i'd run a big breather from there....
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just buy one of those $20 empi beather kits.
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