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 pfillery
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| posted on January 18th, 2013 at 12:45 PM |
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Painting engine tinware
Looking at the pros and cons of painting my tin as opposed to replacing it.
Sme bits are quite cheap to buy new so wondered is it worth cleaning, degreasing, sanding and painting old tinware?
Also what sort of paint is best if I decide to go this way (which I will do with some) - does it need a high temp paint or is a good epoxy all that is
required?
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on January 18th, 2013 at 01:00 PM |
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Hi
I use White Knight satin black, reasonably durable. Genuine tin usually fits better than new replacements.
Steve
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on January 18th, 2013 at 02:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pfillery
Looking at the pros and cons of painting my tin as opposed to replacing it.
Sme bits are quite cheap to buy new so wondered is it worth cleaning, degreasing, sanding and painting old tinware?
Also what sort of paint is best if I decide to go this way (which I will do with some) - does it need a high temp paint or is a good epoxy all that is
required?
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Hi
I use white knight undercoat and Kilrust gloss paint
these tend to stick together really good...
I always leave the undercoat on for at least one day or more in the sun... lol
I have used High Temp paint but its not glossy..
but none of them usually off.. lol
it IS worth it to do the original tinware..
the new ones don't fit as good... and are usually thinner metal... many people have tried them then went back to the originals.. because of the
poor fit..
I usually go back to bare metal...
but its not probably neccesary..
cheers
LEE
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on January 18th, 2013 at 03:25 PM |
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ok have done some research and what I have found is if you have original German tinware then you cant get any better than that.
For my new engine build I am using my existing tinware and having it powder coated
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snitz
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| posted on January 18th, 2013 at 04:08 PM |
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If your using all your original tinware definately powdercoat..cheaper than sanding,prepping and painting in 2pak.Very durable.Make sure they block
any threaded inserts or areas where you put in clips etc..in the tinware as it will fill up with powdercoat or just re-tap after powdercoating.
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pfillery
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| posted on January 19th, 2013 at 09:53 AM |
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So obviously doesn't have to be high temp paint as such? You can get a pretty good VHT paint which is nice and glossy so might go with that. My fan
housing is pretty good, just things like the underside tin and heat exchanger surrounds need a hit but would probably use muffler paint for the
exchangers.
Powder coat is considerably more pricey from what I've looked into, plus the downtime of a couple of weeks.
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psimitar
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 01:34 AM |
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take a look at my resto thread but I cleaned up my original tin and then used 3M high temp paint from Supercheap.
Came out looking like original Matt Satin Black and seems pretty hard wearing so far 
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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Joel
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 09:00 AM |
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Forget the aftermarket tin, it rattles, cracks and fits poorly, good condition OEM tin wins hands down everytime.
I've run colourcoded detailed engine bays for about 15 years now and have always found if you put the effort into prep and use good quality paint it
holds up well and looks awesome.
In saying that though with the last VW engine I built I took the plunge and had some original tin powder coated gloss white.
It wasn't as costly as I would have though ($120 5 years ago) and I was really impressed with how durable it was, very resistant to chipping and
scratching and oil stains polished straight off.
Well worth it if you plan on keeping the car.
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 matberry
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 09:04 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Forget the aftermarket tin, it rattles, cracks and fits poorly, good condition OEM tin wins hands down everytime.
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pfillery
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| posted on January 21st, 2013 at 07:05 AM |
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Powder coat is a lot more than that now. I was working for a place making light fittings etc and we had a pretty good deal with powdercoaters and the
prices were high. Around $80 to do a wheel rim. It used to be $30 but environmental penalties and other costs have lifted it. Not as bad as
galvanising but getting there. They wanted $200 to 2pak a steering wheel and that was not counting prep.
The other obvious problem is downtime. Can't drive with engine tin off.
Thanks for the advice, I think I'll go with one of the good paints and use my original tin. Just got to get the time to do it now.
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 21st, 2013 at 08:02 AM |
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If you really want to use a VHT paint that requires curing/baking then make sure you follow the instuctions and bake it in an oven to avoid it failing
completely
I just use a rattle can, killrust, white knight etc
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