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Author: Subject:  Mystery oil leaks and the joys of running things in
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posted on February 7th, 2013 at 09:19 PM
Mystery oil leaks and the joys of running things in


Like the topic says :/
Got my new 1835 last week. most awesome of motors! went to give the engine bay a little wipe down and check things over and there is some oil over the tinware. not really alot but you know how a few drops of oil looks like a giant puddle sometimes :) some of it seems to have run out the little drainage hole in the tinware under the degree wheel and gotten burnt on the exhaust :(

It hasn't even done 1000ks yet but it will have soon so taking it back for first "service" on monday. (hopefully to be back in time for dubs)

I know sometimes oil can seep out of the alternator stand and this oil also seems much thinner than the thick stuff that i was using in the old 1500sp. there is also a drip from the temp sender but that is only 1 drop. anyone got any suggestions about what else it might be?? the oil seems to be running down the outside of the sump and makes little drips off the bottom fins. but pushrod tubes and valve covers and heads are totally nice and clean. its wierd.

temp sits about 180F after a highway run to ipswich from brissy and the pressure never hits the 50psi marker. it only does when the car is warming up still and oil is thick but otherwise it's all good

No i'm not flogging the crap out of it :) I've been changing well before 4k and have only seen the shift light on a handful of times. the engine is under full load on the highway especially when going up hills but max revs on the highway are 3 - 3.5k at about 110km/h

all these little problems i suppose are all part of looking after a midified 40 something yr old car. you sure do have to love these things don't ya :)

ARGH! just needed to vent more than anything really.. appologies to those that lost 2 mins of their lives. :)
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posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:24 PM



Changing under 4k suggests its not blowby pressurising the sump and pushing past the oil slinger on the front of the crank (my 1835 would do this before I put a breather on the rockers, but then mine saw ~7000rpm fairly frequently.....).
Could be the slinger is not installed ?

It's never fun seeing oil leaks on your new engine !!!
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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 10:26 AM



blowby? :( definately hope its not that!! i don't think i have been driving it nowhere near hard enough to fry rings.
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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 10:48 AM



could be blowby, only takes running too rich during cam break in to glaze the bores, which is the first 20min of running or less.

but it can be any cause thats doing that really.




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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 11:13 AM



they joys of motoring eh?
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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 12:51 PM



If it is coming from the front of the crank, it usually hits the pulley and gets thrown up onto the deck lid in a very distinctive line..... If you can't see this its more than likely not coming from the crank.
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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 06:09 PM



Clean it all up
Take the oil filler cap off and go for a spirited drive
If you don't then have oil spray it is blow by

A good breather set up may relieve the problem




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posted on February 8th, 2013 at 11:26 PM



Well, cleaned it all up and drove it to work... from the looks of it the oil seems to be coming from where the alternator stand is attached to the engine... if that's all it is i'd say it's easy fixed right??
Whats more annoying is the fact that its dripped oil on my lovely new headers which are now crusted with burnt oil :(
(if anyone has suggestions about how to clean it up please see my other post about it)

let's hope it's all easily fixed and completed by dubs. i'll find out on monday i guess when i take it in for its service.

i have a csp breather box on it at the moment but i don't have vented valve covers. it just has a line plumbed into the air filter on one of the carbs
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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 08:33 AM



Take a pic so we can see your set up. There are a million and one things that can cause your symptoms.

So fresh, really your engine builder is the one that should be helping.




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 10:15 AM



I agree with matt, whats your engine builder doing about it ?



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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 10:38 AM



every car engine has crank case pressure, that needs to be vented, all new cars have pvc valve that vent back into inlet, VW just vent to atmosphere
If your got a high revving motor it needs to be vented to suit.
Pics ?




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 11:30 AM



Here is a pic .. sorry its not the best

I'm taking it back on monday to get the problem sorted out so will give you all an update after i drop it off and get a call back :)

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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 11:35 AM



well at least your breather is plumbed to the carby, so it shouldn't be getting crankcase pressure build up.

Make sure you fit your rear tinware too. Having that piece missing will increase the engine bay temps.




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 12:20 PM



could just be a gasket.
maybe lift oil filler cap off, at idle and see how much pressure coming out. oil should nt come out when haveing a look, as that type of breather normally has
internal baffles.




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 12:30 PM



No tin at the rear ... I hope it's just the pic and you have had it fitted whilst driving or else....there's your oil leak, blow-by past your out-of-round cylinders



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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 01:08 PM



Does that breather box have other outlets around the back that aren't connected?

It won't be getting a vacumn in the case if there is and they are left "unplugged"
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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 01:19 PM



I have that type of breather , I see that yours just has a stock oil cap.
mine runs the cap which is a breather to, I wonder if that makes a difference.???




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 01:54 PM



Could that "plate" between engine block and alt stand be round the wrong way

needs to be down to right (or up and left) to stop oil getting out




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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 02:52 PM



Under the alternator stand needs to be sealed with silicon, RTV or high temp red etc. If the box is baffled you can run without the vent plate between the stand and case

I would plumb both carb tops to the breather box via a 3 way tee
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posted on February 9th, 2013 at 09:40 PM



or run a breather from the carb tops down to the rocker covers removing the one that is already there. I personally think it looks neater that way.

By running in do you mean that 5 minute test fire up while it is sitting on the milk crate? Thats all mine ever got closely followed by a Mt Ousley "dyno" check. Nearly killed a Schymitzek within 2 minutes when a new engine had more power oversteer than anything I had driven before. Run em in like you intend to drive em is my motto.




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posted on February 11th, 2013 at 12:06 AM



Hellbugged - The other holes in the breather that aren't used are all plugged. there's no oil spouting out with the lid off either. i'll ask about sealant too. thanks!
Matberry -yeah the tinware is all there... that pic was taken at the workshop just before the last bits of tin were fitted :)
ian.mezz - if it's just a gasket i'll be a very relieved people

i've done a few wipe-downs and driven around and as far as i can tell oil is only coming out of the bottom of the alternator stand. It goes in tomorrow so i will get some clarification on what the issue is. i'll be happy when i know for sure.. i've been having beetle nightmares all week :(
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posted on February 14th, 2013 at 09:47 PM



All fixed!! turns out it was a faulty adapter for the oil cooler. wasn't made properly so it wasn't seating on the oil seals. part replaced. no more leaks :D

Now to give the car a good old wash and pray the weather gods bring us sunshine for sunday!
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posted on February 14th, 2013 at 09:58 PM



Cool
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posted on February 14th, 2013 at 11:08 PM



Great news !!!


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