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 vlad01
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| posted on February 11th, 2013 at 08:32 AM |
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Some paint questions.
A mate of mine who used to do restoration paint jobs and I have no experience with 2 things.
1. how do you use plastic primer? There is no specific instructions on it.
2. how long before you apply clear coat after the metallic? any specific number of coats?
71 notchback,
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 helbus
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| posted on February 11th, 2013 at 05:17 PM |
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The plastic primer may have dozens of different ways it needs to applied, depending on many things. What brand primer, what name primer, what colour
primer, what type of plastic. I would be doing web searches based on a bit more info.
Clear goes on top of metallic after the coverage of the base coat is complete and there is no signs of transparency, mottling or too dry a finish.
This may take 2 coats of base or up to 15 coats to get right depending on many factors. Unfortunately experience with using the product is one of the
main factors.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 11th, 2013 at 09:52 PM |
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plastic is PP. the primer is paint mobile's own brand. they said just spray it on the plastic. duh 
its clear and smells like thinners, pretty much looks like thinners to me. looks like an adhesion promoter to from what I have seen in screen
printing?
ok practice panel on the clear then. 
71 notchback,
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helbus
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| posted on February 11th, 2013 at 10:06 PM |
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If it is a clear plastic adhesion promoter, then you just spray it on. It sometimes has a metallic additive so you can tell you have put a coat on
everywhere.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 11th, 2013 at 10:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
If it is a clear plastic adhesion promoter, then you just spray it on. It sometimes has a metallic additive so you can tell you have put a coat on
everywhere.
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ah yeah thats what I found under the old paint. doesn't look like this doesn't but I haven't mixed it up yet so it might be at the bottom of the
tin.
So can I use plastic primer, etch then high fill or do I skip the etch in between and go straight for the high fill?
there are some minor marks on the plastic which I am hoping to use high fill on. I found high fill under the 2nd coat, so I assume I can?
71 notchback,
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helbus
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| posted on February 12th, 2013 at 06:17 PM |
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Ideally plastic being a very flexible product does not finish well with thicker layers of finishing products on it. So by using hi Fill which is a
solid stable hard product, it will eventually crack and fail. The time it takes depends on the rigidity of the base plastic. The difference in
flexibility between the original plastic and the thickness of the harder product on it are so varying, it all depends on how thick the product is and
how long you want it to last.
PolyUrethane parts last about 12 months with more than two coats of paint.
PPE parts can last many years.
Just too many variables to have a simple list.
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vlad01
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| posted on February 12th, 2013 at 10:59 PM |
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its on non flexible bulk of the bumper. they don't move much at all, if it does on this car then you have crashed it lol
the marks are very minor, mostly me struggling to get the paint off even with strong paint stripper trying to be careful with the scrapper. is it best
i try to block sand them out rather than hi fill? plenty of plastic except it doesn't sand easy, feels greasy when sanding.
there was hi fill already under there in one spot so far, I couldn't see the point though as the plastic was perfect there.
71 notchback,
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vlad01
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| posted on February 28th, 2013 at 07:27 PM |
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whats the temps and humidity limits that are safe to paint in for the different products I am using.
etch primer, wattyl brand
high build primer, paintmobile brand? maybe protec rebadge?
color top coat, protec
Clear, paint mobile (relabeled protec brand?)
All are acrylics
The weather is rapidly turning back to winter (Victoria for ya)
So I just want to know whats still safe and wont cause issues and if I ran out of time is it ok to sit in primer for 7 months for the next round or
warmer weather?
71 notchback,
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cesiumfrog
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| posted on February 28th, 2013 at 07:56 PM |
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afaik acrlic primer can not be left for that long without top coating
etch primer not needed on plastics ( the plastic primer is your etch primer)
ones i have used say lightly scuff plastic surface after cleaning with wax and grease remover
high build primer should be alright but light coat only..as above .finished surface needs only enough paint to cover
thick is your enemy
assuming coverage of colour coat is adequate clear goes on when base dry so same day
make sure you have a filter in line to trap moisture before going through gun especially if humid
high teens temps should be fine
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vlad01
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| posted on February 28th, 2013 at 08:36 PM |
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ok thanks for that. Ok I should be ok for another month I think. yes i run a water trap/filter works well.
minor wobbles in the metal should be spot putty or fine filler? if finer filler do i go on the primer or does it need to be bare metal?
The worst of the wobbles are about 1 -1.5mm thick.
I am trying to find a good bumper thats had no repairs. no luck yet. if the color is mixed up, can the remainder be stored long term, like the 7
months? ie. do everything but the bumper then do that latter from the same mixed batch for correct color consistency?
I am not sure if I will find a perfect bumper in time to paint.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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