Board Logo
Go To Bottom

Printable Version  
[ Total Views: 3086 | Total Replies: 6 | Thread Id: 102482 ]
Author: Subject:  Extend bare metal working time without flash rust
MembereXraycer
Seriously Crusin Dubber
**


Avatar


Posts: 166
Threads: 27
Registered: May 16th, 2012
Member Is Offline

Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )

posted on June 19th, 2013 at 02:19 PM
Extend bare metal working time without flash rust


Been looking for a product like Picklex 20 for a while (just google it and watch the vids. Looks impressive) but there's no AU distribuon.
Then I realized I might already have something similar.

Rust Blast from KBS does something very similar and I already have the stuff cause I just used it on my chassis underside as a three step paint process. You see I'm just a hobbyist so there's often breaks in between finishing jobs so bare metal might not be able to be painted up immediately.

Spoke with Vaughan at KBS and found out as long as the job is stored dry KBS treated bare metal should last a long time possibly over a year or even more with no flash rust. Its also very easy to re-apply the Aquaklean and Rust Blast later just prior to paint if a lot of welding and dirt has hit the metal since the first Rust Blast treatment.

It can be powdercoated over or painted with normal car paint and you do not (should not) take off the rust inhibiting milky looking Zinc phosphate treated surface as you might expect. He recommended not wiping the surface with solvent or any other cleaner prior to paint. A dry tack cloth for dust then just paint directly on the clean, treated metal with your epoxy primer or even powdercoat if that's what your painting with.

I'm looking for any response on possible problems I might run into or compatibility issues anyone might see with doing this Zinc phosphate surface preparation under Epoxy primer and two pack paint process.
If there's no probs then I might be onto a winner combo for the backyard restorer.
Member68BUS
Wolfsburg Wizard
***


Avatar


Posts: 485
Threads: 19
Registered: July 1st, 2011
Member Is Offline

Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Berwildered

posted on June 19th, 2013 at 02:58 PM



I cannot comment on the product you mention but I used 2pac epoxy base coat over bare metal to protect the whole car and then for the smaller sections I was working on sporadically used copper weld through primer. It would be to exspensive to use for large panels but was great for cut and repair areas.

BTW - Nice 356 in your avatar.




1966 Aussie 11 Window
MemberHappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Superannuated
******


Avatar


Posts: 2887
Threads: 141
Registered: June 13th, 2009
Member Is Offline

Location: Southern Highlands NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Happy enough

posted on June 19th, 2013 at 07:26 PM



In the past, I have used a product called 'Keyphos', but not sure if it is still available. Gibson Chemicals sold it.

It could be brushed on [about the viscosity of kero], and was good for months. Not good to inhale, though.




I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Membervlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
*******


Avatar


Posts: 4270
Threads: 109
Registered: June 3rd, 2010
Member Is Offline

Location: Kyneton, VIC
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Side ways

posted on June 19th, 2013 at 07:41 PM



I wash or wipe down bare metal with water and sodium hydroxide, stays rust free in under cover conditions for months, wash off latter with clean water really well and dry.



http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/vladk01/notch04.png
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
MembereXraycer
Seriously Crusin Dubber
**


Avatar


Posts: 166
Threads: 27
Registered: May 16th, 2012
Member Is Offline

Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )

posted on June 21st, 2013 at 02:40 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
In the past, I have used a product called 'Keyphos', but not sure if it is still available. Gibson Chemicals sold it.

It could be brushed on [about the viscosity of kero], and was good for months. Not good to inhale, though.

Thanks for that response Greg and Vlad.
What was the procedure before painting? Wash it off? I found this product called Paintgrip 253 otherwise known as Kephos 253 in the past. Currently sold by Henkel technologies through a distributor called Solvents.net.au. It's quite affordable at around $200 for 20lt but I don't need that kinda qty and its not sold in retail (hobby) sizes. It also came with the usual disclaimer from the supplier of consulting your paint supplier or doing your own testing to see if it was appropriate to be used with epoxy primer and 2k paint you're using. I'm not in a position to do proper lab tests on it or a practical test over a few years. I would like to know if any tradespeople had issues and what sort of paints they used it with.
Member68BUS
Wolfsburg Wizard
***


Avatar


Posts: 485
Threads: 19
Registered: July 1st, 2011
Member Is Offline

Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Berwildered

posted on June 21st, 2013 at 04:09 PM



What - No thanks for me huh:?:



1966 Aussie 11 Window
MembereXraycer
Seriously Crusin Dubber
**


Avatar


Posts: 166
Threads: 27
Registered: May 16th, 2012
Member Is Offline

Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )

posted on June 21st, 2013 at 05:21 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68BUS
What - No thanks for me huh:?:


sorry bout that 68BUS.

Thanks to you too mate! ;)

356 isn't mine Unfortunately.
Saw it in the window at Throttleshop at Milson's Point one night when I had my old film camera and a roll of black and white film.
They have a good supply of vintage Porsches for sale on a regular basis.


  Go To Top


Powered by GaiaBB, © 2011 The GaiaBB Group
(C) 2001-2024 Aussieveedubbers

[ Queries: 40 ] [ PHP: 18.2% - SQL: 81.8% ]