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 Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 01:42 AM |
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engine tinware
Hey all, I just got the bits and pieces back from the sandblaster and plan is as follows:
epoxy prime
bend and trial fit and work them to where I want them
2k primer
basecoat
2k clear
sound good? likely to stand up to temps around the cylinders and in the engine bay with all the vibrations and oil mist and heat etc etc?
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 01:45 AM |
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PS sadly the rest of the car is already painted using somewhat more dubious prep methods... except the rear bumper, which is still mostly chromed;
would this be a reasonable thing to put over the chrome if I rough it up a little, or should I use a self etch 1k rattle can primer instead/as well on
it?
let sleeping dubs lie
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 HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 08:39 AM |
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Just be aware of the dangers of 2K paint.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 09:52 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Peter Leonard
likely to stand up to temps around the cylinders and in the engine bay with all the vibrations and oil mist and heat etc etc?
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So for a poorly balanced motor with blowby and heat issues ? 
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HappyDaze
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 10:43 AM |
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Peter, I hope you weren't looking for POSITIVE comments, were you?
I'm sure it will turn out great
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 11th, 2013 at 07:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Peter Leonard
likely to stand up to temps around the cylinders and in the engine bay with all the vibrations and oil mist and heat etc etc?
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So for a poorly balanced motor with blowby and heat issues ?
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nope, this one's built by Stan, not you
just wondering if anyone out there with any paint experience has painted vw engine tinware with the aforementioned layers and it's stood the test of
time...
I'm going high build epoxy over sandblasted bare metal to hide the welded up bits and make it look shiiiiny and smoooooth once it's all 2k cleared
over my candy ghost flame basecoat 
as I've already 2k'd the rest of the car whatever dangerous isocyanates and chemicals I'm going to get with spraying these bit are a drop in the
ocean 
let sleeping dubs lie
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 helbus
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| posted on October 12th, 2013 at 07:53 PM |
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2K paint will stand up to 100 degree heat easily. On the actual heads, manifolds or even brake calipers, you will need higher temperature paint.
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Peter Leonard
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 posted on October 12th, 2013 at 10:34 PM |
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Cheers Helbus,
So bare metal, epoxy primer, sanding/bodyfiller, graphics/basecoat, 2k clear is good, or should there be another 2k primer between sanding and
basecoat whether there's filler or not?
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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 posted on October 15th, 2013 at 11:17 PM |
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Pics or it didn't happen
sprayed the epoxy primer with a 1.8 tip and I have to say it levels out better than I thought it would... hence the slightly overwet application and
the runs 
Still, that's what sanding sponges are for, and it's mostly to keep it safe from rust and tart it up a little. Next layer will be 2k primer in
readiness for the fun part 
amazing how many cracks and holes you find under all the old paint....
sadly the epoxy did not fill them
had the bumper brackets and a few other little bits blasted at the same time, so they get the treatment too.
let sleeping dubs lie
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vw54
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| posted on October 16th, 2013 at 05:43 AM |
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| Quote: |
nope, this one's built by Stan, not you
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Best thing I heard all week
Pete don't know if the 2 pak will stand the heat Powdercoat would be the best
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 16th, 2013 at 08:20 PM |
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Guess we're going to see .... unfortunately this is the original original cylinder tin from my first ever beetle and it's been with me since day one
on each engine iteration, so it's been through hell. If I'd welded and panel-beat the buggers before I began all this powdercoating would have been
great, but as you can see they're in fairly ordinary condition. I'm hoping that filler and sanding and 50 coats of clear will make them look
reasonable, but I'm not hoping for a miracle
Will post the stages as I go as a cautionary example for others 
let sleeping dubs lie
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on October 16th, 2013 at 09:39 PM |
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Sweet fella, you'll f
Ind once assembled the odd marks and imperfections will not be as noticeable. If you are really fussy you could wet sand or spray a guide coat. I
would bog and sand as necessary then reprise prior to base coat.
Good luck
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 16th, 2013 at 11:56 PM |
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Great! I'm hoping the gaping holes and birdpoo welding will completely disappear on assembly 
let sleeping dubs lie
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HappyDaze
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| posted on October 17th, 2013 at 07:14 AM |
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Bit late for you Peter, but there is a filler available that will withstand powder coating temps. [aroung200c].
Lead or solder will melt at those temps....I found out the hard way.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 17th, 2013 at 08:32 PM |
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Gee, Cheers Greg... for NOTHING!!!!! 
I guess I'm going to see how it goes with the 2K.. failrly late in the piece to change tack now. Reckon polyester spray putty will handle the
cylinder and head temps under the tinware okay? That stuff hides damn near anything.
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 11:21 PM |
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the folly continueth
so when you REALLLLY look at your tinware you realise it has a lot of weird lumpy and bent bits that are not so much fun to fill and sand. anyway-
here's the next stage of the tinware paintup thread. one day I hope to actually fit it to an engine rather than leaving it strewn about the alfresco
area in various stages of completion.
and some other bits copped a little primer while the gun was out
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 11:33 PM |
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for some reason my urls aren't working so well. so attachmentarianism it is.
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 11:35 PM |
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and on... and on...
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 22nd, 2013 at 11:37 PM |
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time will tell how long it lasts (especially the bumper which is reasonably well chromed underneath the epoxy and 2k primer)
Frankly I'm not keen on hearing time's opinion until the last possible minute.
let sleeping dubs lie
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on October 23rd, 2013 at 02:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Peter Leonard
PS sadly the rest of the car is already painted using somewhat more dubious prep methods... except the rear bumper, which is still mostly chromed;
would this be a reasonable thing to put over the chrome if I rough it up a little, or should I use a self etch 1k rattle can primer instead/as well on
it?
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Hi Peter
I had a rear bumper which was still chromed but was discoloured?
so, I used a fine wet and dry paper all over and sprayed with a rattle can with VHT silver paint... [from memory] that was in 2004 and the bumper is
sitting on My carport roof still the same..
I believe I did use an undercoat of some kind??
I wasn't sure if the paint would stick to the chrome but it did.
I have painted My engine tinware a few times using VHT High Temperature rattle can.. mostly its a dull finish, even when overcoated with glossy high
temp paint... but sticks good..
Last time [always bare metal] I used a rattle can undercoat and then a few top coats of Killrust EPOXY paint.. now this paint sticks great, but I've
found over the heads. the heat has cracked the epoxy paint... I think I used too many coats.
no problems on other parts of the tinware..
I've used this on steering wheels and steering columns and its a very tough paint... [I leave over a week between coats]
I believe the 2k should stand up to the heat OK...
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on October 23rd, 2013 at 09:45 PM |
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Hi Lee,
familiar with the results spray can jobs, but this one's going to try and be a bit more pro looking The killrust stuff is pretty good if you're just covering up the odd scratch and looking to improve the appearance in a
basic way, but I'm aiming for something that looks like it's been carefully applied. All my last 'paintjobs' on the tinware were like that, and
they stood up fairly well, but they didn't like degreasers and never looked quite right.
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 3rd, 2013 at 09:42 PM |
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thanks to the 36 degrees in perth nothing has happened Paint-wise this weekend. just saying. unless you count emptying out my paint storage locker
when my HOK Tangerine Kandy Koncentrate tin sprung a leak and ran down over everything underneath the top shelf
did do some more wiring tho
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 12th, 2013 at 10:35 PM |
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Hot weather again, but not being one to listen to the voice of reason I busted out the LVLP, the sanding pads, the basecoat, the prepsol, the plastic
sheeting and the thinners. But not in that order. I used some old dried up basecoat that had been sitting around since the original painting began 2
years ago as the latest batch of base didn't quite match. Incredibly it reverted to liquid form and is a brilliant match in the bumper and supports
Way too hot to mess with the clear and by Sunday arvo the bugs were out
and sniffing the 2k thinners, so I'll give it all a light rub over next weekend and bomb it with clear next Sunday morning -with any luck. The wierd
shaped pieces are going to be prone to runs and be a b1tch to get even so I predict a fair bit of post painting cutting and buffing is in my near
future. pics to follow when they get here from the box across the room.
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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 posted on November 13th, 2013 at 12:01 AM |
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Basecoat
Black went down okay
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 13th, 2013 at 12:08 AM |
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reconstituted basecoat was a little thin, but it stuck
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 13th, 2013 at 12:13 AM |
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this happened after the black basecoat but it's hard to see until the clear goes on and you get some sun on it, so y'all have to wait til nex tahm,
y'hear
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let sleeping dubs lie
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 13th, 2013 at 08:56 AM |
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 25th, 2013 at 07:19 PM |
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We have clearcoat.......
a few runs and dry bits here and there, and some of the prep was not what you'd call concourse or professional, or even passable, but we have
clear.
pics to come as soon as my camera monkey has finished screwing around trying to make it look okay.
let sleeping dubs lie
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vlad01
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| posted on November 29th, 2013 at 02:50 PM |
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why not bare metal chemical strip them and por15 them few coats, sand and coat again for filling/smoothing pits?
you could also use their engine enamel if you didn't want to use the rust preventative paint. That fills imperfections even better! its really really
high solids paint.
Their stuff is tough as! and resits high temps, fills pits well and very nice finish.
Also, alternative.
bare metal chemically stripped and treated
wattle super epoxy super etch
high temp rated epoxy. (POR15 top coat range)
cheap and good alternative 2.
bare metal chemically stripped
acid etch treated, rinse and dry.
VHT engine enamel.
bake in oven 100ºC for 1 hour
tough as boots, sticks like dog shit and lasts years on sumps where stones chip are common and much longer in the engine bay.
only it doesn't fill pits.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on November 29th, 2013 at 09:28 PM |
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Hmmm... good idea vlad...
but they're already painted promise to post pics shortly, even tho
they're not cut and buffed.
There used to be a product made by taubmans/white knight called SLS etch primer. Legend has it that the letters stood for 'Sticks Like Shit', as it
was named after the results came back from the tests the industrial chemists ran. I like to believe it
Meanwhile I'm using epoxy, 2k primer, black base, HOK 'Orion Silver Shimrin', four or five candy colours mixed in intercoat clear, topped with
generic 2K clear. 'twill be interesting to see how they stand up to the rigours of an aircooled engine bay
let sleeping dubs lie
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