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Author: Subject:  Started work on the Syncro (T4 Rear Discs)
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posted on March 3rd, 2016 at 09:06 PM



Awesome detail in your work.

This engine should last a long time.

Hope the gearbox can handle it and last as long.

Did you get a speed sensor worked out from the dash pod speed sensor?

Cheers,

Scott




88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
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posted on March 4th, 2016 at 09:04 PM



Looking into trying to use a Subaru gauge cluster this time around, so the speedo sensor is not the best option for this one. Have trialed the Subaru cluster in my Red Caravelle and it is working well. Ordered a SmallCar sensor which I mount my own way up high away from the road grim.



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posted on April 17th, 2016 at 11:46 AM



We I've managed to get a bit done, engine and gearbox are in.

Yeah what a mess! But this ran like this, well a least it did after I remembered to earth the main relay.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dLK3Rb1DoWo/VxLoLX6nkhI/AAAAAAAAAtM/ap_tBycO4uoPrCozX6YtDDdfR1BY_5CgQCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060116.JPG



Now looks like this, still more work to do but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YUQvWXZpAm4/VxLoLBo_V3I/AAAAAAAAAtY/zjobL4YXElMzfZ-I8i-beyXbA88hps17wCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060118.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QVgssBQDZsw/VxLoLQ7yhKI/AAAAAAAAAtY/6zLPoNsLDVwN6rpAfB6jTwkbQXIEQnsdwCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060120.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0ABhE3sZuuo/VxLoM4drXfI/AAAAAAAAAtY/VW2kVkPcXZs2IKGAttMDFS5eQKmyKW_IACCo/s800-Ic42/P1060121.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gXvdFXCyjZM/VxLoNRqRlTI/AAAAAAAAAtg/GKxSI-hMIK8dtasSXwFBPw9HjzX1R5m4gCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060122.JPG




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posted on April 21st, 2016 at 07:46 PM



Well my BMW E30 brake booster arrived this morning, here is a comparison to the stock booster. Note the BMW booster is thicker between where the master cylinder mounts and where the booster mounts to the frame.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jCKNuu391bA/VxiaD1lCDMI/AAAAAAAAAuM/mu5-HOR44OI9FZrP-ceGHiVJiMLMKPA9gCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060132.JPG


M9x1.0 thread on the VW booster

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TkB9rJZ1leE/VxiaD8Sjd3I/AAAAAAAAAuk/Ht_WWKhWoNQTX44K4KitoPaDjxummVcJACCo/s800-Ic42/P1060133.JPG


M10x1.5 thread on the BMW booster.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FckJ2VOKGuE/VxiaEAFynOI/AAAAAAAAAuk/ah3dvsn0ftoSQAWPOthLW50mS33jXoyCACCo/s800-Ic42/P1060134.JPG


Comparison of the clevises, BMW on top.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aMDd8XuzB6w/VxiaEqpskXI/AAAAAAAAAuk/42CjKooyQRQdxnV646nOEBCg4yWLb8-YACCo/s800-Ic42/P1060135.JPG


This is the felt seal/filter from the VW booster.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ocdGpQygU_o/VxiaFOKCn6I/AAAAAAAAAuk/GnUUDYqOE64uWugqRxD_qHeIJB0lI7zwgCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060136.JPG


This is the BMW booster, there should be a filter here but has disintergrated with age. As the booster works, air flows through here and eventually ends up at the intake manifold.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H9-HQcmXY4I/VxiaFbRyxII/AAAAAAAAAuk/Qee4W_7LYTU8qtxt9_6Cqu6iQLR3--heACCo/s800-Ic42/P1060137.JPG


The VW filter installed in the BMW booster, section removed to let it fit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QVH05YkhBv8/VxiaF0-KFUI/AAAAAAAAAuk/3_k6eVom180iHiOJnOjQtND9u64dbbq3QCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060138.JPG




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posted on April 22nd, 2016 at 10:18 AM



This is the VW clevis tapped out to the M10x1.5 BMW size and trial fitted, rod will need to be trimmed back as it will interfere with the brake pedal.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hqDVC3ffOQA/VxlsgYsEc-I/AAAAAAAAAu0/Ef-gdqkNvMMCqRTX0AIAzx4_2z7qXV0FgCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060139.JPG


Clevis fitted, rod trimmed and adjusted to the correct length. That is the prep on the booster finished, install later.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rGS7tv_cAXs/VxlsguJlv-I/AAAAAAAAAu4/l5W7G9zazHwNco8uY69_FqIngIubw1s7gCCo/s800-Ic42/P1060140.JPG




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posted on April 23rd, 2016 at 07:21 PM



Nice! i have to do something similar...I have BA ford front brakes but the booster lets me down...maybe i'll cheat and copy you!
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posted on April 24th, 2016 at 09:46 AM



I went the Audi/G60 route.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uEDcFW5NNx8/VxwDX7oKVVI/AAAAAAAAAvU/a87k9EFitE8wubC1p5vJlko0IDkN13QowCCo/s800/P1060123.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-72FQrSZ5Ry8/VxwDXoFMlbI/AAAAAAAAAvU/6DoOpQQ72g4qeMKqUWkdaNV88kuDn400wCCo/s800/P1060125.JPG




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posted on May 2nd, 2016 at 04:04 PM



Got one of my LT mirrors installed, run out of rivnuts/nutserts so the other side will have to wait. Plus I've run out of the correct screws.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RvjvA98NDSk/Vybp5qsXZvI/AAAAAAAAAvw/lI2fH1RqNyM-08k4yodyn8ETQTI6zFDAACCo/s800/P1060171.JPG


This is the mirroer folded back(not the best angle to show how flat it goes)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H6qjwojGAL4/Vybp5IJmGmI/AAAAAAAAAvw/i_uCG0A4qrUdE0vCTkJS4Bdv1Ij6K1UZwCCo/s800/P1060172.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7CAE0HMJRkM/Vybp5fopiVI/AAAAAAAAAvw/dLrKII0KufsuB6rC7gEnbyXlwyXWT1-ZwCCo/s800/P1060170.JPG




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posted on May 9th, 2016 at 07:52 PM



Very nice work and great detail for others to try and follow your conversion leads.

Such as me :)




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posted on May 12th, 2016 at 08:17 PM



These are some of the parts used-

Power steering resevoir - VS Commodore(and similar)

Hose power steering resevoir to pump - Mackay CH3291 - OEM 92075417

Hose power steering return pipe to resevoir - Mackay CH4045 - OEM 92050721 - VT Commodore

Hose coolant manifold to radiator supply - Mackay CH944 - OEM 2812269 - HQ etc V8 bottom hose.

Hose radiator to thermostat housing - Dayco 71035 - Gates 21201 - Chevy/GMC - ordered from eBay are they are from an American vehicle.

Air cleaner is Commodore mixture of VN,VS. Joiner is modified Commode air flow meter. Intake pipe is from 1990 to 1994 Liberty.

Fuse holder is from early Mitsubishi Pajero(at battery terminal), this goes between the alternator and to starter terminal/B+

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kFnt72Mo0KA/VtP03g-lk9I/AAAAAAAAAqE/Spa0qzOuvt8TISHk2MO3NVDg-E7wP6dGQCCo/s800/P1060054.JPG

Modify to this and upgrade the fuses to suit the alternator you have(120 amp for this install), 30 amp supply to ECU etc and supply to air con system. This style holder can also be found on earlier Toyota Camry etc.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IeLfbzgEGdo/VlrADSY-gpI/AAAAAAAAAlI/uUxgxlNvWbMEYLx5JiHAEN_U5tk3fJK6QCCo/s800/P1050902.JPG




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posted on May 12th, 2016 at 09:09 PM



This is the SmallCar VSS mocked up on the transaxle while it was out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Tc0XINfD_hI/Vu0f3NnkymI/AAAAAAAAAsI/K8OlTVXtHjsBAjsYy-CNcX_c6Odp-yGYgCCo/s800/P1060092.JPG

Set up a bit better.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-edn40eJEvs8/Vu0f5D6G_fI/AAAAAAAAAsM/Lux7lX81sP8kpyfMuBBJshcufov5DH4OwCCo/s800/P1060102.JPG


And installed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BSoLDPlTXzY/VzRje5z6QwI/AAAAAAAAAwA/PSabJgD4UYwTjw5ywqUYOsUjUSE18WwzQCCo/s800/P1060196.JPG




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posted on May 17th, 2016 at 06:05 PM



These are the clutch mods I am making on this.

This the plastic supply line which has to be shortened by about 50mm, use a heat gun to form a new bend in the line. Go for gentle bend this is a bit sharp but will be ok. Salvage the banjo fitting, use the heat gun to soften the end of the line and push it in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ju8ZB0gjB5A/Vu0f1rjEARI/AAAAAAAAAsI/1tQLHxw-Mzk2M6PWZg6wFlVytuhCPxm6gCCo/s800/P1060064.JPG


Got caught out here, just a little tight going together and it picked up on me. Was not expecting trouble with a new genuine vw slave cylinder, but it cleaned up ok after some cursing and swearing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-04WSdPTpcB0/Vu0f1RAVJpI/AAAAAAAAAsI/oDfhQNyC6iwaCvimmAjv1PAI1e7kOLGQwCCo/s800/P1060069.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZUVD_JBw7Cg/Vu0f1AZCHGI/AAAAAAAAAsI/NQ6No-GvZXUleD2a00OSe4GXb2JTkteXgCCo/s800/P1060071.JPG




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posted on May 17th, 2016 at 06:35 PM



Pedal mods are a bit more involved. The clutch slave is designed to have a 16mm(5/8") master cylinder but the T3 master is 19mm(3/4"), unmodified this can result in over extension of the slave cylinder leading to failure of the cylinder. There a three solutions to this-
1) resleeve the T3 master 5/8" - too much work and you end up with a one off part which is expensive and hard to replace.

2) spacer on the push rod to limit travel - this is what SmallCar supplies, cheap and nasty(not very happy with how it works)

3) change the pivot length on the pedal which limits the stroke on the master cylinder - one off mod which lets you use an unmodified master cylinder(easy to replace)

I have gone with the third option.

This is the pivot arm in it's original position already clearenced to be moved back.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3-mYe6W78Ig/VzrQBo37qJI/AAAAAAAAAw4/pH17LGaQLdgpdX-MVk4BsCjQeJVMaT6NwCCo/s800/P1060175.JPG


Moved back about 10mm

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ktii0N-Sgc4/VzrQB06V0wI/AAAAAAAAAw4/l2ipv0CXLmMFwBsiMYV0adeUWpaAraTRwCCo/s800/P1060176.JPG


Spacers under the master, about 11mm.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Ln09fqurXE/VzrQBqC1pZI/AAAAAAAAAw4/oHY1JKN7CJwpYShZ_h6riAT4vYHf8ADQACCo/s800/P1060182.JPG




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posted on May 17th, 2016 at 06:43 PM



All together, extra spring is there to keep the pedal pulled back against the cruise control switch.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7bJeA7xNStM/VzrOzYsxdSI/AAAAAAAAAwg/jcO6Ma0Y_eMsz9u7uMHsVDc8hbBGM0FiACCo/s800/P1060185.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oAhh5BFZsGM/VzrO2LbFaEI/AAAAAAAAAwg/D_RAAGjMMO0rrhNgWslGcmBYK9-F0W_RQCCo/s800/P1060186.JPG

There was a little wear in the pedal/clevis so I went up to a 3/8" (9.5) clevis pin from the stock 8mm.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1SaTd56AnAw/VzrO6Zq0SsI/AAAAAAAAAw0/iFftig_VzDQ1GLN_KCoWJeUYgh4nX0gnQCCo/s800/P1060188.JPG




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posted on June 23rd, 2016 at 12:44 PM



This is where the booster has clearence problems with the top bracket.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rp5sN1MHvI4/V2tJ57EtzcI/AAAAAAAAAyU/1ucmrGOaBKI5U6uhznKk__iEJzax_oODACCo/s800/P1060213.JPG


Here is the paint transfer off the bracket.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZqJxX48w2rg/V2tJkBBwEZI/AAAAAAAAAyc/4wDzB3ttUIweyo068A0K1q1R7vcDGh86wCCo/s800/P1060215.JPG


This is after some cutting and hammering, this tweeked the bracket slightly which of course made the bolts hard to get back in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PdInMGe3GSI/V2tJgIBYVaI/AAAAAAAAAyc/WPPszGZnTgY3pb1bKR-cdta-QzuNLXxNgCCo/s800/P1060219.JPG


Back together with the steering column brace modified to miss the brake hard line.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bmKCmywCSFg/V2tJRhJBuxI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/Kfkq0YZCbyMHL-dlZbrP6Cyf2NOVL4tiQCCo/s800/P1060224.JPG




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posted on June 23rd, 2016 at 12:55 PM



This is the rest of the clutch pedal modification. Push rod had to be shortened a little.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vYvZFWcmuuc/V2tJVfxSGqI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/HPQvNEmsNkM74WsLHckmIuIsj2nFCLThgCCo/s800/P1060217.JPG


Had to do some clearancing here on the brake pedal boss as the repositioned clutch pivot arm was rubbing on it. Note this has nothing to do with the brake booster conversion just the clutch mods.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_kjHbvwkrMg/V2tJTIfjPTI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/L0sYnNfA7-MwdrvWRbuccrE_FipnjFdRQCCo/s800/P1060223.JPG




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posted on June 23rd, 2016 at 01:15 PM



It seems like a fair amount of work here for this mod.

I heard there was some bloke in the USA that had another mod that Small Car were also looking into to eliminate the clutch throw issue - I just couldn't find what it was on theSamba.com.




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posted on June 23rd, 2016 at 01:38 PM



Once you have done one and know what has to be done it is not that involved. Most difficult part is pulling the pedal assembly and getting it back in.



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posted on January 28th, 2017 at 09:23 PM



Here is the RH snorkle modified to fit on the LH side. Remove the original lugs with a knike to break the heat weld and fit to the opposite side. Riveted and Sikaflex.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060294_zpsmipgfzp4.jpg


Both the lugs with the rubber mounts attached. As the snorkle is designed for the RH side it ends up at a slightly different angle and lower down so it can fit. There is also some self adhesive foam in several places where it is up against the body.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060295_zpsby7gfjpw.jpg


Fitted to the body, the tabs are at different heights on the body Rh to LH side. This is because they use the same rubber mount RH and LH sides but it is offset one way.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060312_zpsegwnhmkc.jpg




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posted on January 29th, 2017 at 12:50 PM



Finally got the plumbing for the decoupler finished and the switch installed.


http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060242_zpsznpimlir.jpg



All the lights working with the diff locks and decoupler engaged.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060249_zpscarideaj.jpg


But this is going to need a lot more work, this is so brittle I doubt I will be able to salvage it.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060244_zpsr2qnf4v7.jpg




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posted on January 30th, 2017 at 06:27 AM



Great to see this moving ahead again, I really like that you took the time and effort to move the snorkel to the other side for the subi motor



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posted on January 30th, 2017 at 01:51 PM



Some plastic welding and some vinyl paint will make that locker panel come up like new.

Judging by your work to date - I am sure you have the skills.

You cant beat 3 knobs - I only have 2.

Hence, I have knob envy :)




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posted on January 31st, 2017 at 01:12 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by nils
Great to see this moving ahead again, I really like that you took the time and effort to move the snorkel to the other side for the subi motor


I'd been trying to work out the snorkle for awhile and decided to try and get a diesel one form overseas as the diesel uses the lefthand air channel. Then I found a post on theSamba where they had modified the RH one to the LH side.

I then used that idea and did it a slightly different way. Photos show how they did it.

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posted on January 31st, 2017 at 08:02 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Scottkombi
Some plastic welding and some vinyl paint will make that locker panel come up like new.

Judging by your work to date - I am sure you have the skills.

You cant beat 3 knobs - I only have 2.

Hence, I have knob envy :)


I think Scott is right... not enough knobs:lol:

I mean about the locker panel. All the interior parts are ABS, welding with some acetone slurry may get you 90% there




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posted on February 6th, 2017 at 07:09 PM



Managed to finally get my engine to run sweet today, always used to stumbled and stalled on startup the first few times but would then run ok. Check engine light was always on but I couldn't read any codes.

Had a spare Impreza loom for an EJ201 tucked away so I broke it out and stripped it down. Swapped over my ECU, Immobilzer etc and wired it into van. After I chased down a missing earth it now runs smooth as. Starts properly and no codes.

This of course means I've stuffed up somewhere and have to strip the loom I have installed out and find where I went wrong.




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posted on February 9th, 2017 at 03:20 PM



Nice work on the snorkel.

I quite like this version of a snorkel from Sebastian who lives in the red centre of Australia and clearly needs the dust extracting ability of this version of a snorkel:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm281/Syncro27/20160731_112214_zpszrd7o8ch.jpg




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posted on February 9th, 2017 at 05:37 PM



The old faithful Donaldson Pre-Cleaner, cleaned my share of those when I worked underground.

Had some success with my wiring, turned out to be a missing earth which told the ecu it was a manual and made the diagnostic plugs work. Hence the fault code and my inability to read them. Test it out tomorrow.




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posted on February 11th, 2017 at 05:00 PM



Did my test today but still had the starter signal and the Inhibitor/neutral mixed up. Things you get when you swap an automatic loom to manual.


All good now starts up and purrs (OK it's a bit of a growl with the exhaust on it at the moment.)




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posted on February 12th, 2017 at 05:00 PM



Great stuff.

That wiring loom is a nightmare - there is no way i would have attempted to shorten it by myself.

Just hooking it all up to the right places was a big task that worried me until it was all done.

I still get a code from my computer looking for the auto signal input - cant work that one out.

What air filter box did you use?




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posted on February 12th, 2017 at 05:16 PM



Air filter box is from a VS or similar Commodore, they use the same element that the earlier Libertys. Find an earlier box as the later one have an air temp sensor in them, you either have to leave it there or plastic weld the hole up.



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