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Author: Subject:  Started work on the Syncro (T4 Rear Discs)
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posted on February 12th, 2017 at 05:51 PM



You can tell the autos that they are manual with an extra earth to the ECU, you just have to change the inhibitor/starter/neutral wiring to suit.

This is partly where I went wrong on this loom. I have used this ECU/Inhibitor/Key from an auto Forester (1998) in my Red Caravelle (manual loom 2003 Outback), it worked perfectly and my diagnostic cable showed a manual ECU with no fault codes.




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posted on February 14th, 2017 at 04:25 PM



I noticed on the wiring diagram that the wire that went to the Auto box was the same wire that goes to the speed sensor.

I cant earth that one as it goes to the speed sensor now only.

There was a Pink/ black wire that also goes to the auto yet routes off to a connector which is now not used. That whole pink/ black wire went with the auto wiring being removed.




88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
05 Mk5 Golf 1.9 TDi DSG
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posted on February 14th, 2017 at 04:54 PM



For the autos the speed sensor is in the transmission, so the transmission control module sends the vehicle speed to the engine ecu and the dash. While on the manual is come straight from the gearbox to the engine ecu and dash.

An extra earth has to be added to the ecu, B25 on mine. I remove the auto wiring from the ecu plugs and use a tail to reinsert it in the proper terminal and then wire it into the earth(usually black/blue).

I done know what loom you have, so I can't guess what colours are for what. What is it out of?




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posted on February 15th, 2017 at 10:27 AM



This is my wiring harness which has been drastically shortened, plugged in and works great except for the code that is searching for the auto transmission input.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm281/Syncro27/20161121_113854_zpsp2efmwj8.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm281/Syncro27/Wiring_Harness_zps4qownby1.gif




88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
05 Mk5 Golf 1.9 TDi DSG
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posted on February 15th, 2017 at 11:15 AM



Diagram you show is for 2.2 to Vanagon which makes me suspect that it is for an American spec engine.

I may be able to help but I need to know what engine and what it is out of.




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posted on February 15th, 2017 at 08:58 PM



Sorry the post kept getting deleted as I added photos.

I didn't use that diagram but it gives an idea.

It was from a 2000 model Subaru Liberty Wagon - Auto.




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69 Microbus
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posted on February 17th, 2017 at 10:31 AM



Try this https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=112118&page=1#pid10...



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posted on February 17th, 2017 at 11:09 AM



Thanks Brent.

they seem to be USDM manuals - they have different wiring to ours.

I have the correct wiring diagram for it - not the one I showed.

As I previously mentioned the wire coming from the auto is also the speed sensor wire and hence I cannot just earth it.

There probably is another way but I cant seem to find it.




88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
05 Mk5 Golf 1.9 TDi DSG
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posted on February 17th, 2017 at 05:54 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Scottkombi

As I previously mentioned the wire coming from the auto is also the speed sensor wire and hence I cannot just earth it.




I'm sorry but where did I say to earth the VSS wire?


Here is the direct link to the 2002 General Market manual. http://www.mediafire.com/file/6jn2t78nmfl3p6w/GenMarket+Legacy+FSM+2002+%28BE...

USDM manual are at top, general market are further down the page.




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posted on February 17th, 2017 at 08:17 PM



Thanks Brent



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posted on February 19th, 2017 at 05:29 PM



Got the servo for the cruise mounted in behind the RHR light. Using a unit from a Impreza, would have prefered the electric unit from a Liberty/Outback which I have used before but haven't been able to source one yet.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060330_zps8u2tmmvv.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/88%20Syncro/P1060328_zpsidp0lq17.jpg




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posted on March 17th, 2018 at 11:59 AM



Decided to get brave with the dash/gauge cluster. Gen 3 Subaru gauges and double din mount from a Commodore.

https://i.imgur.com/v5MBkud.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wkZvkMd.jpg




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posted on March 18th, 2018 at 10:43 AM



Great work
Will be watching with interest




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posted on April 12th, 2018 at 12:32 PM



Put new universals in the driveshaft, the ones I got were greasable so I modified the yoke so the nipple was accessable. I will have to drop the shaft to grease them but at least I can do it and it is not a job that has to be done often. Got some bungs from Clark Rubber to keep any water out of the flange.

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posted on April 12th, 2018 at 03:44 PM



This is where I am with the dash. It is a bit boxy but I still need to get some pading and cover it properly. May redesign it later but this will do for now.

I have had this going in my red caravelle before I sold it, so speedo, tacho and temp gauge all work. But need a module for the fuel gauge and some of the warning light want to see earth rather than a +12v.

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posted on April 18th, 2018 at 08:20 PM



Nice job on the uni-joint - I did a similar thing and used a Hardy Spicer version as it had a grease-able nipple which was altered to be accessible and grease-able as required.

Not sure on the dash just yet but it will provide a lot more info for you.




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69 Microbus
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posted on April 19th, 2018 at 11:16 AM



I'm not sure on the dash either, but if it doesn't work out I have 2 spare complete dashes to replace it with.



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posted on April 20th, 2018 at 06:40 PM



Made up an alignment tool for the drive shaft, got some laser pointers off eBay (6 for $15). Got extra in case one dies on me. Stripped it down to fit the magnetic base I already had and added a switched battery pack (Jaycar @ $2.75).

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posted on April 20th, 2018 at 06:46 PM



At the other end I needed something to line up to, used an old car speaker magnet. Machined it so it centralized on the flange and added a plumb line for reference. Stick a bit of paper under the plate for the laser to shine on.

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posted on April 20th, 2018 at 06:53 PM



Set the laser on the flange and spin it, then move it across to reduce the circle it will scribe down to a point as best you can. Now you can see how your alignment is.

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posted on April 25th, 2018 at 10:31 AM



A bit of a warning and information about lasers, 1 mW are the legal power laser in Australia because you can blink fast enough to prevent damage to your eye. Above 1 mw permanant damage is possible in literally the blink of an eye.

A sample was tested and out of the 41 tested 1 was of legal power with one testing at 112 mW. I ordered 1mW but they are labeled at less than 5 mW, so use with care as you don't know what you will get.

https://www.technologyreview.com/s/528566/the-worrying-failure-of-australias-...




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posted on April 26th, 2018 at 03:36 PM



Great idea.

When you installed the gearbox/ engine was it much out of alignment with the front diff/ VC?

All I could do was measure and string line it.

Seemed to work out fine though - no vibration - nice and smooth.




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69 Microbus
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posted on April 26th, 2018 at 04:59 PM



Alignment was out 10-15mm(where the laser shone at the front diff) for the gerabox, I was able to adjust it out on the smallcar mount as the holes are slotted.

Front diff was ok.




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posted on April 28th, 2018 at 12:56 PM



I have the smallcar mount so i might check mine again.

My front diff has never been out so it should make a good reference point.




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posted on May 19th, 2018 at 06:40 PM



T4 brake install in progress, handbrake still to be finallised. I did it on the Kombiclub site as that is where the discussion was started about this brake conversion.

http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/t4-rear-disc-install-in-a-t3.57169/ 




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