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 TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on December 28th, 2013 at 09:58 AM |
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I have no gears when selected on my auto trans ?????????
Hey everyone,
i have just changed engines in my 75 auto, 2ltr bay camper.
Only engine came out, trans stayed and torque converter strapped to trans so did not move.
Everything installed, engine starts, now here is my problem.
Tried to reverse car out of shed no gear, T-bar moves through all gears, selector on trans moves through all gears but car won't move.
If park is selected wheels lock in and if neutral is selected car rolls.
Have put a litre of trans fluid in but still the same, all gears and kickdown worked before engine removal.
Will try a cable adjustment tomorrow, does anyone have any ideas???????????
Cheers
Bill
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STIDUB
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Over it.
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| posted on December 28th, 2013 at 01:18 PM |
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Flex plate/ torque converter bolted together properly?
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 28th, 2013 at 03:17 PM |
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some times the torque convertor may slip off of 1st splines when pulling motor out .
at 2mi and 3.3 minute in link.
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIPyv2C_4
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TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on December 28th, 2013 at 05:21 PM |
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Okay Guys,
I have done the following:
. removed sump and cleaned out filter, thinking it maybe clogged.
. removed governor, thinking it maybe dirty.
. adjusted selector cable by the book.
. checked oil level, which i don't think is right because oil not at operating temp ????
nothing changed still the same,
pulled engine out again thinking pump drive shaft not meshing, was not.
Now need to know a different method other than the book to get this together correctly.
Book states to measure from bell housing face to front of torque converter when still installed and use this measurement on the install again.
I did not do this the first time i pulled the Engine and gearbox out, only read it afterwards.
I have pulled the pump drive shaft from the trans and meshed it with the torque converter then lifted T/Q to trans and pushed into place until the
torque shaft meshed then further until the pump drive shaft meshed and cross my fingers this is correct ????
Will not be putting engine and trans together until i know this is correct, any help would be great.
i spoke to my mechanic this morning and he reckons what ive done should be right.
Well put it back together and still no drive, 1st, 2nd, reverse, still starts in P and N, pulling my hair out now !!!!!!!!!!!
The last thing i have tried as per the manual is that the trans has 140 to 350psi when in gears, so took a bung from side of trans and started
engine.
Put it in drive and no big gush of hyd fluid, so either pump shaft still not meshed properly or trans oil pump not working ???????
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 28th, 2013 at 08:41 PM |
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I am not a Kombi person, but you don't have a silly vacuum hose off or something wire that run near starter motor .
Just a shot in the dark.
cause if the auto worked fine before your either fitted the convertor wrong and stuffed the pump or just left some thing little off.
when you pulld the convertor out to check , did you look for damage where it fits in auto ??
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TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on December 29th, 2013 at 09:24 AM |
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Hey Guys, thanks for the info but i really think it has to do with trans oil pump or oil pump drive shaft.
Will pull engine again today and check torque converter a little more thoroughly.
Cheers
Bill
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 29th, 2013 at 10:59 AM |
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I'm not familiar with auto kombi's but aren't all auto gears meant to have their own clutch to 'engage' like an AC compressor clutch?
The P to drive gear, the 'locking' of P is a pin that is mechanically engaged/disengaged so thats normal.
But the Auto drive gear engagement would be either pneumatic or electrical.
Just throwing it out there.
Lack of auto fluid leads more to a 'slipping' torque convertor then dead in the water no forward motion etc. (from my semi auto bug days).
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on December 30th, 2013 at 12:46 PM |
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Hey Guys have pulled engine again and looked down where the oil pump shaft goes and i reckon the pump has let go cause i cant see a hole i see bits of
metal.
Cheers
Bill
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 Bizarre
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| posted on December 30th, 2013 at 01:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by TomWantzAKombi
i see bits of metal.
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That doesnt sound good 
On the up side - reckon you found your problem
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on December 30th, 2013 at 03:45 PM |
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Problems in that area on installation is common with any auto trans.
On an old VW, can only be doubly so.
Gotta be real careful.
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TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on January 2nd, 2014 at 05:59 PM |
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now looking for trans oil pump or a rebuilt trans or a known 2nd hand trans or a substitute (subaru auto maybe).
add in wtb
Cheers
Bill
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vlad01
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| posted on January 9th, 2014 at 03:26 PM |
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I saw on the samba not so long ago someone had the same issue. they somehow broke this part. The splined center gear of the pump was shattered.
I could not find the actual pic of the broken one but its the same part as this.
71 notchback,
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vduboy
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| posted on January 9th, 2014 at 04:43 PM |
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My old apprentice did the very same thing on a auto corolla or something similar.. seen the thread too late to pipe up.. any luck finding the bits?
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!
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TomWantzAKombi
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| posted on January 10th, 2014 at 08:57 AM |
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Hey,
yes i think its the drive plate that has collapsed, if i look down the centre tube i can see the star section but all distorted.
I have now got a 2nd hand trans threw it in and all works again.
Cheers guys for all info
Bill
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