| [ Total Views: 1642 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 104536 ] |
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 VWGrub
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| posted on December 30th, 2013 at 04:58 PM |
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Body Seal and Sealants used
Guys,
I'm close to putting my bod back on the floor pan, and hope you can help with a few questions.
1. I have the cheap body seal from Classic Vee Dub, has anyone had issues in using these!
2. Can you recommend a sealant to seal this with and any helpful
Tricks I should be aware of?
Cheers in advance
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 31st, 2013 at 08:01 AM |
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Used black silicone sealant from mitre10  (windscreen sealant), has
worked a charm on the baja.
Be aware to not use a 'sealer'... fella at autobarn sold me that by mistake after I asked for sealant, and after all the effort of applying and
bolting the body on to the pan, the shit never cured (remained a messy goo).
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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 matberry
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| posted on December 31st, 2013 at 09:22 AM |
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Well I have a totally diferent opinion to Chris I'm affraid.
I would be using ONLY quality seal (like West Coast Metric) as I've seen some cheap versions turn to soft oozy rubbish in no time, also the sealant
I'd use would be a high quality non-hardening sealant (I use Wurth brand made in Germany). Silicone is usually acidic unless you specify 'neutral
cure' which will CAUSE rust and any drying compound will tend to glue the body down making any future removal or repairs very difficult.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on December 31st, 2013 at 11:28 AM |
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I would use a none hardening sealing strip. The stuff that comes in a snake roll. Wurth brand is very good. Kind of the consistency of BluTac
You dont want gooey rubber windscreen sealant from a tube, as it cannot bridge any gaps. It is designed for rubber windsreen seals.
I would never use silicone anywhere on a car body. It causes rust more than it can prevent. Mechanical components only.
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VWGrub
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| posted on January 3rd, 2014 at 08:20 PM |
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Cheers Guys,
Food for thought and good info. Lucky I have a Wurth store close by, so will go and see what I can use!
Cheers again
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vlad01
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| posted on January 9th, 2014 at 09:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
Used black silicone sealant from mitre10 (windscreen sealant), has
worked a charm on the baja.
Be aware to not use a 'sealer'... fella at autobarn sold me that by mistake after I asked for sealant, and after all the effort of applying and
bolting the body on to the pan, the shit never cured (remained a messy goo).
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Thats what you want though. the factory used a non curing tar like sealer.
If you use a sealer like sikaflex which many people do, you will probably never get the body off the pan ever again.
I recently put a little on the bottom of a coil spring to stop the spring from shifting in its seat under hard cornering and I mounted a part wrong in
the strut and required removing the spring again.
Lets just say it took me 4 hours to pry the spring out and clean the mess up.  It was like welded in place.
imagine that over the whole surface area of the body to pan interface.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on January 9th, 2014 at 09:49 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Well I have a totally diferent opinion to Chris I'm affraid.
I would be using ONLY quality seal (like West Coast Metric) as I've seen some cheap versions turn to soft oozy rubbish in no time, also the sealant
I'd use would be a high quality non-hardening sealant (I use Wurth brand made in Germany). Silicone is usually acidic unless you specify 'neutral
cure' which will CAUSE rust and any drying compound will tend to glue the body down making any future removal or repairs very difficult.
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I might look into this wurth stuff.
is it any good for doing door trim membranes?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vw54
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| posted on January 9th, 2014 at 05:43 PM |
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cheap seal equals LEAKS why spend money on the body work and let water come into the car
us a non acidic silastic or it will eat in the metal work and cause rust
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