| [ Total Views: 2993 | Total Replies: 38 | Thread Id: 106269 ] |
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 meisterberginteriors
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 05:15 PM |
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Do not Do's!
I have come across a lot of things in my type 3 build that i just want to get out in the open...
this is a list of things you should not do when doing a restoration on a car.
i was hoping others could also list no no's on here too. its not about naming and shaming because some of these i have done when i was younger and
well lets just say more gun ho.
its all about helping people 
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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Mad fabricator, paint and body
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 05:21 PM |
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Do not ever put a fuel filter in the engine bay between the fuel pump and carburettor.
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meisterberginteriors
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 05:26 PM |
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making gaskets from regular paper.. seriously dangerous and just dont!
using expanding foam to fill huge holes with a skim of bog over the top!
using silicone to adhere rubber seals
welding stainless steel to steel, they dont like each other it doesnt work.
using silicone to fill a hole then bogging over the top.
using bog as a seam sealer. bog cracks its not flexible enough for a seam on a car, your seam will rust. seam sealer is cheaper and easier to apply i
promise!
cutting something out of a car for what ever reason and not replacing it. engineers spend a lot of time working out how to protect the occupants of a
car in the event of an accident. if you dont know what something does find out! VW people are friendly and we want to help
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meisterberginteriors
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 05:28 PM |
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oh yeah and using bog instead of a dolly and hammer! even a block of wood can help you pull a dent and save you money on filler.
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nils
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 06:43 PM |
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Take things written on forums too seriously
Quit calling rust patina
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roverv8bay
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| posted on June 7th, 2014 at 06:58 PM |
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G'day all. don't tell the missus
ernie
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 8th, 2014 at 03:23 PM |
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trying to fit beetle parts.
t1 beam conversions
chopping bump stops
t1 upright cooling conversion
lowering too much
using cheap china parts
fitting incorrect wheels, most that fit beetle, don't work so well on type 3
using castrol GTX 
just a few off the top of my head.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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bugmaniaar
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| posted on June 8th, 2014 at 08:01 PM |
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Don't be in such a rush when putting your engine back in and forget to connect the fuel line from the
fuel pump to the carb and then try to start it...............WOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFF and the garage glows brightly.
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tar76
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on June 8th, 2014 at 08:29 PM |
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not lowering
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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Boozo
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Back in the bug
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| posted on June 8th, 2014 at 09:51 PM |
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Solid mount a daily driven 1915
[size=4] '59 or Kombi?....feeling confused [/size]
'59 bug
'68 bug
'82 import T3 BUS. aircooled
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amazeer
A.k.a.: Surly Duff
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| posted on June 8th, 2014 at 10:43 PM |
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use a screwdriver to separate case halves.
forget to put the tin under the cylinders before bolting the heads on.
forget to put the piece of tin under the oil cooler before putting the fan housing on a type 4 engine.
forget to put the pushrod retainer springs in when bolting rockers on yout type 4.
drop the spacer washer from the bottom of your dizzy drive into the sump.
overtighten strainer bolts to fix a leak.
use regular plug leads without the tinware seals.
leave heater box pipes open to the engine bay.
silicone your tappet cover gaskets.
fit a battery without sunken terminals under the back seat.
leave out the lockwasher on steering/suspension components.
put your petrol cap on the pump or roof while filling up. I lost 2 or 3 that way!
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h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
Scirocco Rare
fractals - an ever changing lifestyle
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| posted on June 9th, 2014 at 06:51 PM |
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painting your engine components multiple bright colours 
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 9th, 2014 at 09:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by h
painting your engine components multiple bright colours
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haha
hmmm? wonder who would do that?  
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Superannuated
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| posted on June 10th, 2014 at 05:54 AM |
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Do not tell other people what they should or shouln't do. 
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Klaus
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on June 10th, 2014 at 10:55 AM |
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I'm guessing your car came from qld as I've got a DC here with the same issues ..expandafoam is not structural ha
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MY68VW
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on June 10th, 2014 at 11:30 AM |
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Expandafoam!!! About to undertake removing a heap from heater channel.
Beginning to wonder if everyone has tried this at some stage. Apparently even some manufacturers did this to production cars at some stage.
Fiberglass is not a replacement for sheet metal.
Don't weld with galvanized metal.
Tuned Type IV power - shaking out the rust.
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empi
A.k.a.: Empstar
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| posted on June 10th, 2014 at 11:32 AM |
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Its your car, do what you feel is correct and within legality!!
Amazed of the comments of the "experts" here that haven't restored their own cars
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous  |
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BRUTUS
A.k.a.: et tu, Brute
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| posted on June 11th, 2014 at 10:17 AM |
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-Replace Modulator valve, and tighten with Vice Grip on its body, because you don't have the correct spanner.
-Use Penrite HPR
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
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| posted on June 11th, 2014 at 11:03 AM |
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IF you haven't got the money up front to restore a vehicle to the dream,
rather than let it sit in the shed for 6 years demotivating yourself as you drip feed in cash, built it to a state of rwc and drive it. It'll keep
you motivated. Then build as you go.
Also, do it right, do it once. There are no shortcuts. You'll find yourself having to repeat the task. This includes rust, paint etc.
Wish i did that 
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 11th, 2014 at 01:21 PM |
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it helps to joint a car club and get it on club plates. The rules atm dont require a rwc, but they are thinking about changing that one will be
required, so get on to it soon and you can drive it around!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Buger Gary
A.k.a.: Gary
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| posted on June 18th, 2014 at 01:52 PM |
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Don't hack a dirty great hole in your transmition tunnel to put your clutch cable on  All it takes is a rubber band people
Don't remove tinware and chuck it away it's there for a reason!!
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vlad01
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 10:21 AM |
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or you could use the access plate on the front of the tunnel to put your hand in and hook the cable on.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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cb john
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 11:04 AM |
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did you ever try ?
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 03:39 PM |
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yeah? was easy, much easier than most other cable operated clutched I changed cables on.
trying to pull though and clip on a cable in a more modern car with it in the dash setup. fark!!!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on June 22nd, 2014 at 09:22 PM |
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Always have oil pressure when starting a new engine
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on June 22nd, 2014 at 09:56 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lucky Phil
Always have oil pressure when starting a new engine
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Should you crank it with no fuel or spark until the oil light goes out?
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 23rd, 2014 at 04:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lucky Phil
Always have oil pressure when starting a new engine
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Should you crank it with no fuel or spark until the oil light goes out?
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yep, having the oil pump lightly packed with petroleum jelly helps a lot in case of a rebuild/new engine.
I even crank the engine with fuel disabled if its been sitting for a few weeks as the oil pump likely drained dry. Otherwise I hear the bottom end
rattle for a number of sec on dry starts like that.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Lucky Phil
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on June 23rd, 2014 at 09:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lucky Phil
Always have oil pressure when starting a new engine
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Should you crank it with no fuel or spark until the oil light goes out?
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The importance of oil pressure on startup cannot be overstated.
Recently, an acquaintance had a local legend build him an engine and he did not pre start the engine.
The acquaintance did not know about confirming oil pressure, and simply installed the engine and started it up.
The engine had it's guts torn out in the first few minutes of it's life.
Very sad.
I treat a new engine and an engine that has not been started in ages the same.
1/ Disconnect the coil positive wire to disable the spark.
2/ Remove the spark plugs to remove compression. this not only removes stress from the bearings but allows the engine to turn quicker and gets oil
pressure sooner.
3/ Squirt a couple of shots of oil into the spark plug holes. This lubricates the bores and helps seal the rings for more compression to help
starting.
4/ Wind it over on the key until the oil light goes out.
5/ Put it all back together and fire it up.
If it has not been run for a while, you can simply remove the coil positive wire and wind over until the oil light goes out.
However, the carby will have dried out by then, and by the time the fuel has pumped up to the carby, you will probably have oil pressure anyway.
If you are really keen, oil can be applied under pressure directly into the oil system by removing the oil pressure switch and connecting a remote
pressure vessel containing oil.
Building one of these is on the to do list.
You can buy them, but they seem rather expensive for what you get.
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on June 23rd, 2014 at 10:47 PM |
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^ very well written break down of the procedure.
good point on the plugs being removed. I did this on a recent engine with minor overhaul and mods.
oil pressured remained high for the light to be out for over 3 min after I stopped cranking. was very impressed with my mods/overhaul of the oiling
system to hold pressure for that long !
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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shmicko
Learner Dubber
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| posted on June 23rd, 2014 at 11:11 PM |
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when bolt on clutch to transmission breaks don't rely on one bolt to hold it in place...just saying.....
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