| [ Total Views: 1772 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 106713 ] |
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 takis
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| posted on July 26th, 2014 at 10:46 AM |
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Adding moly bond to engine oil
Hi, while at work came a cross some molybdenum.
Now thinking of adding to engine oil to reduce internal friction , might get temps down , but real aim is to prolong life of motor.
Biggest concern putting too much and possibly glazing bores.
Could I have your thoughts?
Many Thanks,
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ACE76
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| posted on July 26th, 2014 at 11:32 AM |
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Did you find Mo, or MoS2? Both may look similar (grey powder). Caution: Mo is toxic. MoS2 is a dry lubricant, needs to be very fine/dispersed in
oil to use in fluids, as in "Molybond". Just adding as solid-powder to oil may do damage.
ACE 30 & ACE 40 oil: specially formulated for your Air Cooled Engine...
Delivery free Outer Eastern Melb. & Dandenong Ranges.
from$19 for 2.5L (spot-on for 1 fill, re-use bottle to measure), or $29 for 5L (2 fills)
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takis
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| posted on July 26th, 2014 at 12:53 PM |
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This product is in a tin and semi fluid.
It is a extremely fine graphite base with added oil to keep it in suspension.
We use it in press fit assemblies.
I will keep trawling the net..there is some discussions of similar in american oil web sites.
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ACE76
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| posted on July 26th, 2014 at 12:57 PM |
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So it is graphite then, not Mo? Graphite should not be added to car lube oil. It's a 'dry lubricant' too, and is in oil in the tin to make it
easy to apply (also available as a grease).
ACE 30 & ACE 40 oil: specially formulated for your Air Cooled Engine...
Delivery free Outer Eastern Melb. & Dandenong Ranges.
from$19 for 2.5L (spot-on for 1 fill, re-use bottle to measure), or $29 for 5L (2 fills)
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vlad01
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| posted on July 26th, 2014 at 04:33 PM |
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Do not put that shit in your oil, will do damage!
like that liquidmoly crap advertised everywhere.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on July 30th, 2014 at 09:57 PM |
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I agree stay clear of it.
Oil companies have come soooo far in terms of technology to the inexpensive semi synthetics etc. I've been told Penrite Vintage is great for older
designed engines I think its 20W-50.
But I use 10W-40 in the winter. Cold ehre in Vic.
In the 70's there was teflon additives etc. all similar stuff. If it was so good why isnt it in oils already?
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vlad01
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| posted on July 30th, 2014 at 10:59 PM |
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The thing is with moly lube is its solid particles, and they are very hard to keep suspended in fluid.
its will only get caught between bearing surfaces and potentially damage them due to the high speeds those surfaces move at.
Anyway, Penrite do make excellent oil, had used samples sent to a lab for testing and oil does come back with very little wear metal and next to no
break down of additives. Pretty good if you see the abuse I give my engines.
one thing is I can't say how it does in an AC engine. have not tried it. But I can recommend Joe Gibs DT50 as I have seen comprehensive UOAs of this
AC engine specific oil in comparison to other popular oils for AC engines.
Have used ACE30 but can't say how it performs, I have done no investigation on its effects, I just had some so I used it 
as for your teflon comment, yes absolutely a no no in an engine.
However great in a gearbox! I use a additive in my gearboxes which is pretty much liquified teflon, its would be micro or even nano sized pieces of
teflon. it can take enormous loads and shocks but over time the shocking of the oil between gear teeth seems to coagulate the teflon to form a sort
of teflon foam or scum that floats on top of the oil. I gather the teflon is fused together to form larger structures that no longer be kept in
suspension.
this has no bad effect on the gearbox other than noticeable drop in sycro performance and increase in gear noise back to pre treatment levels. But
imagine this happening inside your engine with higher temperature and combustion contamination added to the mix.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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 vw54
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| posted on July 31st, 2014 at 07:17 AM |
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Stay clear of it in Oil
Just do more regular oil changes will be better for the engine
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