| [ Total Views: 672 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 107731 ] |
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 landfall
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 12:42 PM |
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Oil Pressure
Since fitting my oil pressure gauge and getting the car idling at the correct RPM 850/900 I am aware of a IMO poor oil pressure.
1600 DP engine.
When the oil warms to operating temperature and cruising at 2500RPM I have a pressure of 25/30psi, at idle 5psi.(light comes on) increase RPM to 1100
and light goes out at 7psi.
End float on crank is .008
Oil grade 20/50 Nulon.
Any diagnosis welcome.
Ken
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 vw54
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 06:42 PM |
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Change to a thicker oil
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fish26
A.k.a.: benito
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 07:28 PM |
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already running 20W50, maybe try Penrite hpr30, there are a lot of oil pressure associated contributors namely bearing wear, oil pump clearance,
sticky oil relief, beat out case, etc, etc.
bitten by the bug..........several times
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landfall
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 07:57 PM |
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Will give the Penrite a go, don't really want to change to HPR 80
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 09:08 PM |
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Put a 30mm oil pump on it.
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psimitar
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 09:39 PM |
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Get a garage to screw a mechanical oil pressure gauge into where the sender unit goes. This will then give you a true idea of the engines oil pressure
as the electric types can be rather hit or miss when it comes to accuracy as even a change in supply voltage to the gauge can affect the gauges
reading.
Once you have a good baseline to work from then try some 60 weight oil that they sell now for old worn engines.
Then check out the oil relief valves for fit and scoring.
Then if still low remove the pump and check the pump cover for wear and backlash of the gears.
If none of this raises any obvious culprits then means the crank bearings need looking at.
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modnrod
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| posted on November 24th, 2014 at 10:08 PM |
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Raise the idle up, then just drive the thing.
If it wasn't for that silly little tell-tale you wouldn't have even known about it. At some point, and my guess it not very soon, a loud clunk and
rattle will announce you now have the chance to throw in something new and shiny.
Woo!hoo! 
PS: Maybe ease up on the big-rev side-steps at the lights a bit though.........
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landfall
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| posted on November 25th, 2014 at 06:53 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by modnrod
Raise the idle up, then just drive the thing.
If it wasn't for that silly little tell-tale you wouldn't have even known about it. At some point, and my guess it not very soon, a loud clunk and
rattle will announce you now have the chance to throw in something new and shiny.
Woo!hoo!
PS: Maybe ease up on the big-rev side-steps at the lights a bit though.........
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That's the theory I am currently working on.
Currently have all the ingredients to build a nice shiny new engine, ust need a new case.
Would like to keep it mobile until next winter.
Ken
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Paul Smith
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| posted on November 25th, 2014 at 07:53 AM |
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If you are worried about slightley low oil pressure doing damage add Nulon E 10. The Teflon bakes onto internal parts and will keep everything
protected. I used to have a 65 Chevy that burned so much oil that it would have the red light on the dash glowing until pay day when I would add more
oil and it just kept going to to Nulon. I also had an old Datsun ute that had a very stubborn 2nd gear synchro. I added Nulon gearbox treatment and
the problem went away.
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landfall
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| posted on November 25th, 2014 at 08:18 AM |
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Paul, I am a big Nulon fan.
In fact I wrote a recommendation for them and they published it and gave me a $200 voucher to spend at the local Nulon dealer.
Ken
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