| [ Total Views: 696 | Total Replies: 10 | Thread Id: 108130 ] |
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 grinderman
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| posted on January 11th, 2015 at 09:17 PM |
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Oil light flicker at idle
Installed a recoed 1835 in my daughters bay kombi and after a small electrical issue it is now running sweet but after its first highway run (only
about 10 minutes @ 90kph) its oil pressure warning light was flickering at idle when I pulled up at home. It seemed to be fine when cruising around
town but it felt quite hot after highway run. The timing and tappets have been checked but could it be something internal?
There are a couple of small gaps in the tinware that I will address but I dont think that would cause any major overheating in such a short time.
Any help appreciated, Greg
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psimitar
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| posted on January 11th, 2015 at 11:54 PM |
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How recent is the recon, how much endfloat, how old is the oil and what grade is the oil.
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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grumble
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 07:54 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
How recent is the recon, how much endfloat, how old is the oil and what grade is the oil.
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Also what is the oil pressure,switches have been known to deteriorate and relief valve springs weaken,wear in the oil pump is another possibility.
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grinderman
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 09:44 AM |
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The engine was recoed over 5 years ago but it was stored in a dry place and turned over by hand regularly .
The oil pump is a high volume with outlet for additional oil cooler (not hooked up yet). I will try and hook up a gauge to see what's happening.
So how do I check the relief springs?
I'm only using castrol gtx 20/50 whilst running it in then I will probably put penrite hpr 15 in it.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 11:52 AM |
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just bump the idle up a tad
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AA003
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 12:42 PM |
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Try a new switch. They're cheap.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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fish26
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 02:32 PM |
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Also get rid of the Castrol, try Nulon 25w60 racing or Penrite HPR30, its imperative you use full Zinc oils min qty 1200ppm
bitten by the bug..........several times
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Grey 57
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 05:40 PM |
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All of the above.
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psimitar
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 07:39 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by fish26
Also get rid of the Castrol, try Nulon 25w60 racing or Penrite HPR30, its imperative you use full Zinc oils min qty 1200ppm
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Or pop some slick50 in there or similar.
Switches these days can be rather hit or miss so defo get a reading from a mechanical gauge and not an electric as they can fluctuate in accuracy.
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modnrod
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 07:43 PM |
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Borrow a good mechanical oil pressure gauge. After a quick highway run, throw it into the oil pressure switch hole, start it up again and read the
pressure. It's probably OK, between 10psi (yes, you only NEED 10psi) and 20psi is expected. When engines sit around for years everything starts to
stick, especially small passageways like in a switch.
Dump the oil when hot, and then also straight away try to pull the relief valve and spring from the flywheel end. It will probably be stuck fast too,
in the "cold" position (relief spring compressed). If this is the case, then the relief valve thinks the oil is cold, and thick, and so stays down
even when the oil is flowing and hot. This also means that bugger all oil is flowing through to your oil cooler, which may be why it's getting hot. A
high-volume oil pump only makes it worse, because then even when the oil is hot there is too much pressure at 3000rpm highway revs to let the relief
valve open and let oil get to the cooler.
The best way to fix way too much oil pressure at cruise revs from a too-big pump is to use a much lighter oil. You will also find that some lighter
oils, like Penrite 5W40 semi-synth or Redline 10W40 actually take away more heat from the metal than mineral 20W50 or 25W60, so you get a
double-whammy benefit. Whenever I've had high-comp aircooled bikes get hot in summer, I've always thrown in one of those 2 oils to give me more
margin. They also have a much higher film strength than normal minerals, so even at much lower pressures and higher heats they will stop bearings
touching rotating bits.
Of course, this is all just my personal opinion, it might be complete crap!
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grinderman
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| posted on January 12th, 2015 at 08:10 PM |
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Some great advice from you all. Thanks
I have an adaptor to run 2 senders so I will hook up a gauge and a new warning sender
When funds are available we are getting a large oil cooler with thermo fan and filter which should help.
It was a bit cooler today and it seemed to run even better
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