| [ Total Views: 875 | Total Replies: 6 | Thread Id: 108277 ] |
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 ancientbugger
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| posted on February 2nd, 2015 at 12:13 PM |
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FI to carb
Right I've had a gut full of the L jetronic, when it's going nicely it's great but when it starts to play up it's a bitch but to change to carb
please add to the list if I'm missing anything here... First the fuel pump, carb (duh!) manifold and manifold ends etc., alternator stand,
distributor, anything else? I know there's no place for the heat risers but do the heads need changing (are the inlets and valves smaller and will
this effect anything?) I'll be keeping all the FI stuff just in case somewhere down the line I get the masochistic urge to put it back on. Please do
not ask what's wrong with the way it runs or give advice on how it's so much better than carbs as I had this for nearly 15 years and it's while my
buggy with an old kombi engine in it has been bashed around and abused for years the engine will always start in some fashion and the same with my
sons baja, it will always go but this thing just plays up when it wants to for no apparent reason
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modnrod
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| posted on February 2nd, 2015 at 01:40 PM |
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I hope the following may help.
I had a '67 280 Merc with mechanical injection, and while I saved madly and try to sell my firstborn (most of whom knew her, and so there's no way
THAT was gonna happen...........:smilegrin just to be able to afford 2nd
hand idle air compensators or some crap, I decided to make it work.
I ran the stock 25psi-or-so fuel pump into a cheap 2nd hand Holley regulator, one outlet went to the carb and one to the fuel return line.........fuel
fixed.
I then removed the stock throttle body, made an adaptor, then plonked on a single Mikuni 40mm carb off a bike. It not only worked (against all
expectations and advice), it worked at least as well as a partly stuffed MFI except it idled much better and also had better part-throttle
performance. HUH! Whoda thunk it!
After a few 1000km when the "it-must-have-dangerous-mixture-distribution" and so a holed piston was only one second away (even though it ran like a
clock), I then took the perfectly reasonable step (since nobody was interested in my first born still.......) of cutting off the manifold top, bolting
on an adaptor, and plonked on a Holley 350 2BBL mounted sideways. Bugger me, it went like a train! Who would have thought you could chirp the rear
whitewall 205s off the lights in a big white automatic wedding car hey? Great fun for all the family.
After doing another few 1000km though I got bored with it........and it needed more parts that I couldn't really "hillbilly" to make it work
properly, so I sold it happily and bought a Kombi.
So, I rekn if you use a cheap fuel regulator, make an adaptor or two up, then feed the fuel into 2 SU's, 2 downdraft Strombergs, one central Holley
plonked on a bit of exhaust tubing and angle iron, whatever, against all the odds it will probably run like a clock.
If you used a bit of copper tubing in bends and a shiny brass gear or sprocket somewhere or 3, it might even look a bit Steampunkish and you'd be
cool.
Or was that last century?
Ahem, or you could buy new fuel pumps and carbs/manifolds/linkages and make it look factory I spose.
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psimitar
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| posted on February 4th, 2015 at 07:18 PM |
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If you just want to make it run and don't fancy tinkering like ModnRod said then only thing you missed from your list is a fuel regulator with return
line. Needs to run at around 3.5psi and me thinks that's it really
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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ancientbugger
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| posted on February 16th, 2015 at 08:19 AM |
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Well as I'm using a low pressure electric pump the regulator is not needed. So far the only problem I've encountered is the position for the
accelerator cable which I only discovered when I put the engine back together and in place. The spot on the fi fan housing is about 150mm nearer
3&4 cylinders!!!! It's not just a case of drilling a new hole as not only the oil cooler hiding in there but the rear tinware behind the housing
needs to be sorted. The things that never occured to me ggrrrrr!
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ancientbugger
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| posted on February 23rd, 2015 at 09:34 AM |
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Well parts that I needed to get were the alternator strap as the FI one is part of the plenum chamber and fuel filler again is part of the plenum. so
once I've sorted the wiring for the fuel pump it should be all good to go. I'll be using the wiring coming from the pump at the front to the plug
behind the rear seat so that if I ever want to go back to FI it should all be a complete swap back over as nothing (other than a new hole in the fan
housing) has been altered.
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tweety
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| posted on February 27th, 2015 at 08:23 PM |
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Cant say I blame you.
Had a Peuheot 504 ti once. A german fuel injection system that worked so well but relied on vacuum in its many tubes. Get a leak and try to find it
and no one knew how to fix it.
Had purchased a USA fi system for my ea81 (ea82's had fi in the US) and there are sensors 30 years old now. So off it went and is in a box.
I used a 38/38 carb on my Subaru ea81 and it goes really well. Like a 32/36 weber but both throats open together.
Anyway dont feel guilty. A brand new carbie is worth the cost.
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ancientbugger
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| posted on March 6th, 2015 at 08:47 PM |
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She's running sweet now  Mind you I've had to use the old distributor with the double vacuum as the svda just didn't perform.
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