[ Total Views: 1606 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 108554 ] |
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J BOMB
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posted on March 9th, 2015 at 07:09 PM |
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Karmann Ghia rust repair
Hi gang, after some advice or reccomendations on vw rust repair shops in NSW, don't need major repairs done, just some bubbling thats coming
through.
Any suggestions appreciaited !
cheers
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rothko78
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posted on March 9th, 2015 at 07:20 PM |
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Marks custom paint at Brookvale.
0400332298
He is doing some work on my ghia
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helbus
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posted on March 9th, 2015 at 07:56 PM |
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Don't forget cars rust from the inside out, so bubbling means holes behind in areas you can't see. Just be prepared for the sections of metal
replaced to look a lot bigger than the bubbles. I do this every day, and one bubble on the bottom of a door has often been a case of replacing the
bottom two inches of the outer door skin to remove the rusted metal that is 90% of the way through, just waiting to become a bubble and a hole.
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rickp
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posted on March 10th, 2015 at 12:09 PM |
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agreed with helbus, much more so if the rust is around the door sills of the Ghia. one little rust bubble can turn into replacing the complete sill
panel
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surfpig
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posted on March 10th, 2015 at 06:21 PM |
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Might as well just sell it and get a new ghia m8
Im so happy I could just shit.
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helbus
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posted on March 10th, 2015 at 06:35 PM |
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Don't sell it. Just be aware that rust on any old car is going to be bigger than you can see from the outside, and the hours of labour will cost
money. Usually between $80 and $110 per hour for a proper restorer.
There are other options, and that is to get a fixed price, however there are situations where that encourages panel beaters to cut corners, as the
quicker the job is done, the more money made. For example if someone quoted $9000 for a paint job and did it in 40 hours with cheap $1000 paint and
materials, then they have made $200 per hour.
If someone has to stick to the requirements of the job and charges $80 per hour, there is no advantage to cut corners, especially if their shop is
full of work.
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vw54
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posted on March 10th, 2015 at 07:58 PM |
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I would have the shell dipped or blasted to reveal all the RUST
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helbus
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posted on March 10th, 2015 at 09:41 PM |
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We use a guy who does combination soda and garnet blasting. He uses only soda on any exterior sheetmetal. Garnet is used on all framework and
floors.
Soda only removes paint, not rust. It does not warp panels. You must remove the soda once it is done, and De-oxidine, phosphoric acid treat the metal
surface.
Garnet removes everything including rust. It will blow holes through anything that is 3/4 rusted through from the back. It will not remove all body
deadener and seam sealer. It will warp outer panels.
You must 2 Pak epoxy coat the finished shell within 4 hours, or flash rusting will start at a molecular level. Probably quicker in high humidity. You
can mask off the rust repair areas and not epoxy them until you have completed the replacement of panel steel in those areas.
Complete paint strip of the entire body shell to Epoxy coating usually costs between $3000 and $4000 depending on the size of the vehicle.
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vlad01
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posted on March 11th, 2015 at 04:50 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by surfpig
Might as well just sell it and get a new ghia m8
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and what vw doesn't have rust?
only if you have a time machine will you find un-rusted ones.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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vlad01
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posted on March 11th, 2015 at 05:12 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
I would have the shell dipped or blasted to reveal all the RUST
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I reckon redi strip in NSW would be the way to go. I seen one KG on here where that was done and the results are nothing short of amazing. That car
has been a ongoing project and every update shows that between seams and in box section no rust has even started since dipping it which is a sure sign
it was done right.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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vw54
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posted on March 11th, 2015 at 06:46 PM |
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the only way to attempt a Ghia so many hidden panels and seams
Redi Strip is the best start
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vlad01
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posted on March 11th, 2015 at 10:13 PM |
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wondering? is there a way to spray the insides of the cavities with epoxy?
I had in minds those bulk cavity wax spray guns with lance. but filling it with epoxy 2 pack instead.
What other others ideas and experiences with painting cavities?
wish there was e coat facilities in oz like there is in the US. redi coat would be awesome if they complimented they service with e coat as they are
more than halfway there with what they can do already. Would solve a lot of problems. But suppose cost and demand don't call for it yet.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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vw54
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posted on March 12th, 2015 at 06:27 AM |
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We use to spray inside tubes with an extended head or tube on the spray gun it also went out in a 360 degree pattern
BUT you would have to dip and strip the shell first probably drill some larger holes into the cavities to allow the chemical strip to get right in
side
Only way to prepare a Ghia to be repaired
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empi
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posted on March 12th, 2015 at 03:18 PM |
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I had mine stripped , best way forward.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous
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vlad01
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posted on March 12th, 2015 at 08:23 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
We use to spray inside tubes with an extended head or tube on the spray gun it also went out in a 360 degree pattern
BUT you would have to dip and strip the shell first probably drill some larger holes into the cavities to allow the chemical strip to get right in
side
Only way to prepare a Ghia to be repaired
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yeah I had that in mind like the OEM body plugs cars since late 80s used for the e coating process. also allows access for cavity wax.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
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