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 cabidas
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| posted on January 29th, 2016 at 06:56 PM |
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Thinking bout restorin' my bug
G'day dubbers.
So it's been nearly a decade since I've been on here it seems. Please correct me if I'm in the wrong spot.
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I'm considering restoring my 65/66 bug. I say considering because I've had it since I was 15, and that was quite some time ago!
Anywho, I got stuck into it back in them days, but since then it's sat in bits in mother dear's shed.
Should I decide to go ahead with it, I'm really sort of keen for someone else to do it, or at least have someone capable and able to do the stuff I
either can't, or don't want to do.
Googling around I've come across a few places. It is possible some of the one's which I would have turned to back in the hay day from the ole
magazines, may have either closed, or other's may have popped up that would warrant investigation also.
So yeah any advice you can offer as to who you would turn to, who you would recommend, and any lessons you've learned would also be appreciated.
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I'm pretty sure it's a 65 Oz made bone coloured dub (like the one in my avatar), but I'd have to dig up my file with the chassis stamp and old bits
of the rego sticker to confirm.
The restoration will mainly be a ground up, which should fix any mistakes I made as a delinquent. And will be a standard resto sans the wider rims I
think.
It's a 1300 donk, and may consider boring that out. I have access to a 1500, but figured I'd keep the original one in there.
I may consider dumping it and adding IRS, but prolly not.
Thanks in advance, and looking forward to your sage advice.
PS. I'm in Gippsland, so Melbourne would be good, but am open to NSW or ACT if it makes sense to do so (I could use a bit of a road trip or
two...)
I'll add some pics when I can, and can find them!
EDIT: It's a 66.
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 helbus
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| posted on January 29th, 2016 at 09:27 PM |
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Approximate values
The body and paint will cost you about $10K depending on amount of problems. Body off pan closer to $15K
The engine will cost you $4K
The interior and fitting will cost you $2K
The suspension IRS will add another $2K
New chrome for bumpers and a few other bits $1K
Full rubber seal kit and fitting $1K
So $20-$25K is not out of the question.
Will be a great car at the end of it all, and will not devalue like a new car.
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cabidas
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 07:45 AM |
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Thanks. That's a good breakdown for me to work off.
Originally I was planning between 10-15, but that was some years ago.
At that time it was the reason I didn't pick up the spanners again as you could get a good one for upto 10 at the time.
Having a look on carsales, there are some good to great 60's one's, from the 10 - 15k mark currently.
Going through the old VW Australia mags etc, I can see my tastes have changed, as originally it was going to be hotted up or whatever. Now I just want
it (to appear) pretty stock.
I've found my old photos from back in the day, so I'll scan them in.
Might get time today. And will just have to figure out how to upload them.
There is no major rust. The drivers A pillar was replaced at the time. I'm just hoping it was aligned correctly and there are no issues with the
doors closing as I never put it back on again after the work was done to check.
There is some minor rust on the railing/clip that holds the bonnet rubber on, on the body.
so that piece will have to be replaced.
Everything is a bit buried in the shed at the moment, but I've got the motor out. Will look for a serial number. I'm assuming it's the original
motor. Dunno if there is a 100% way to check.
The box and chassis was all painted when I was 15 or so, but will likely need to be done again, or touched up.
There was no rust in the pans.
Am happy with the 5 stud. In fact prefer the look. Though disks would be nice.
I'm not sure if I can do a drum IRS. I recall something about the rear track being different in that instance, but would have to dig into it
again.
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So who do you recommend for the body, and for the motor/transmission?
Is the Pobjoy business still going?
Or would there be someone good here in Melb?
There are plenty of body shop painters around, but I think it may be best to deal with someone who deals with beetles. That way I'm 100% they aren't
making it up as they go along. I could be wrong..
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cabidas
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 03:09 PM |
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So the engine number is:
F 0421172
And I think the last 6 digits of the Chassis is:
784 102
(The inside is chock-a-block full of parts and I can't find my other paperwork. I'm going of the remains of the rego sticker)
So according to Samba, it looks like my motor is Dec 65, and the body is April 66.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php
To me that suggests a possibility that it is the original engine.
If I understand the website correctly, the motors were imported from Germany for the Aus built ones. And I'm pretty sure mine is from memory.
There doesn't seem to be any major work done to the motor like boring or anything, so the only other possibility that I can see would be a direct
engine swap with that of a similar vintage.
I got it in about 96, and I believe it sat in the shed of the previous owner for a while. Maybe 5 years.
But a lot can happen in 25 or so years of motoring....
The original owners are still floating around these parts I believe, so I might try and round them up at some point.
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Edit: Pics
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x7eqs2wwa9r1k4e/Beetle%20resto%201.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/106c30rj73jdq60/Beetle%20resto%203.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxmfiixwj4h41vl/Beetle%20resto%204.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jyvedu002qrpv3i/Beetle%20resto%205.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/our6luu7fwvyg6y/Beetle%20resto%206.jpg?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a9earug0biemoxg/Beetle%20resto%207.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx29vt63qzcymul/Beetle%20resto%208.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/playh3q1hvs2fsj/Beetle%20resto%209.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5cage51a2bhlm67/Beetle%20resto%2010.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pnz8k245q8a65kf/Beetle%20resto%2011.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n6hjxniocc1a024/VW%20resto%20a.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bb34wjs2z6vlcl0/VW%20resto%20b.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wj5tsutg6vf0x1q/VW%20resto%20c.jpg
I dunno how to add pics directly into the page yet.
Use attachment?
Can you do multiples?
How long do they stay up for?
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helbus
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 03:45 PM |
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Sounds like it is a good start for a resto. Not massive scary rust. The seal rail sections are available new. You can get the original engine rebuilt
with a different cam, higher compression and rejet the original carby. Looks stock, but can make life on the road a little bit better with
acceleration. I just got our 1600 twin port rebuilt with 1776 pistons, cam and rejetted carby, and it looks stock still but has maybe 30% more
horsepower.
I would definitley give the engine to a reputable place to do a full strip down. Having sat for a so long, it will need a rear main seal and pushrod
tube seals and it would be good piece of mind to have it fresh.
A stock rebuild with new pistons barrels and heads will cost you $4K
A warm rebuild will cost about $4.5K
If the heads are not cracked, and the pistons only need rings, and no machining needs to doneit can be as low as $2K for a 'freshen up'
There are disc brake kits that allow wide five wheels to bolt on without adapters.
Personally in my opinion, I would think of a $20K budget. I would get the body, interior trim, chrome, rubbers seals and assembly of the body all done
and finished. Then see what change you have out of the $20K and make the decisions on the engine first after the engine builder has pulled it down. He
might say the engine is junk material and you need to start from scratch, or it might be good and need only a freshen up. Then make the decision on
front discs and IRS, which you can do later at any time.
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cabidas
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 04:07 PM |
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Thanks.
IRS - From what I've seen in my old mags, it requires welding to the chassis for the swing bars. So wouldn't it make sense to get this out of the
way before the body?
1300 - Yeah I can't remember how the motor ran. I can't remember if it was driven here, or brought up here on a trailer, but either way the engine
will be fully pulled down and rebuilt. Seal for seal.
As mentioned earlier, I was going to throw a 1500 in it. I had rebuilt the heads on that one myself using the school shop back in the day. I don't
think I can bolt those onto the 1300 ones from memory. I did look into all that stuff at the time. Will likely just stick with the 1300 stuff. I think
I had some Kombi heads here too floating around. Plenty of options.
Power is not a biggie. Still haven't decided if I want the motor to be mainly stock, or whether I should really supe it up. Prolly go with the
former. I just like the idea of keeping it as original as possible with a few subtle mods. I've got some tow bars here, and one day I wouldn't mind
owning a Christ Craft. So if it can drag that around to a ramp and get it in and out will be of benefit.
5 wide Stud - Wow. Thanks! I didn't know they existed. Just found a few images using Google (again Samba). Something to investigate. I'd prefer to
keep the drums to keep it more stock, and would be interested in what improvements they have for those these days. But once the chrome hub caps goes
on, no one will know so definitely worth considering.
Body - I'll likely bolt the door back on. I probably would have started clearing stuff today, but I've got three long roof trusses in the shed in
the way, so can't do much till I get those out of there. Might have to throw them out in the rain!
So once I'm confident on the door pillar and how it works, I'll make a list of all the other minor stuff, and find some one to do the work.
And recommendations?
I suppose I need someone who can paint and do the minor repair work. I can weld, but not that sort of stuff. So really it would be just a matter of
trailering it in somewhere, and me picking it up once it's done and painted.
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helbus
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 05:42 PM |
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Welding underneath for IRS mods will only need chassis black paint to finish it off if you are not builing a concourse car. It can be one after the
body. It is done often on a diveable car. When you get the motor looked at, it is well worth getting a bit of extra power. It just makes driving a bit
more comfortable. You are not going to do 20K km a year in it, so economy is not a major issue. When the cars were new, they made very conservative
efforts to make them as fuel efficient as possible. Power was not considered. If you want to tow anything, the extra power will be needed.
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cabidas
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| posted on January 30th, 2016 at 06:01 PM |
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Cheers.
The body at this stage is only sitting on the chassis, so will be easy to remove. I only put it back on again as it was taking up too much space in
the shed. It might have 4 bolts in it...
Will definetly go for some sort of extra power, even if it's just boring. Just dont' know to what level I go.
Gunna have to do a bit more research to get a more detailed guide to pricing, and then decide on exactly what I want to do.
Probably the only thing of concern I have with the car is that I think it has a slight crease in the roof if my memory serves me correctly. I dunno
how I'm going to get that sorted. Think I climbed on it one too many times as a kidling.... :-S
EDIt: The chassis, box, and suspension is all aqua. It all came up real good at the time. But I probably didn't heat treat the box properly.
So might have to take a lot of it back.
But if I rebuilt the box anyway, I'll just do it all then. And go back to black.
And everything else in anti-chip.....?
I'll try and get some more better pictures once I clean up things a bit.
The motors got dragged out today, and just found out the sheds been flooded from the heavy rain here over the last few days...
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cabidas
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 10:24 AM |
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Ok, so here are some up to date pictures.
I did warn you that the poor girl is inundated...
1300 Donk
Spare 1500 Donk
Shed Space Optimisation
The Aqua is a little more pale than this pic makes out
Some minor rust that will have to be cut out/bogged
Fixed A Pillar
More minor work that needs to be sorted
Poor Girl 
I'm gunna have to come up with a name for her.
S'pose that will come later.
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cabidas
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 10:30 AM |
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This is a bit what I want her to look like. Albeit, not so low.
In saying that the colour is a bit different.
Maybe mine is just faded.
Does anyone know a spot that has all the colour codes/types?
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 Bizarre
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 11:34 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cabidas
Does anyone know a spot that has all the colour codes/types?
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http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwpaint
Futue te ipsum!!!
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cabidas
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 05:27 PM |
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Awesome! Thanks!
The dulux colour codes don't seem to come up in the dulux search, but should be able to match something.
Logic would suggest that mine would be Panama Beige.
However quite a few that come up in images seem to be quite light.
Yet there are others that seem to be darker in that collection too.
And then there is the next year, Savanna Beige. Though unlikely for mine, again images come up with two variants both light and dark.
The year before, 1965, is Safari Beige and seems to have a slight green tinge to it. So I assume that one is out.
Something to start investigating anyway.
Will a paint shop be able to bring up those colours using the four digit codes?
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cabidas
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 05:37 PM |
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I've just done a bit more googling and I've come across this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483096&view=previous
It has these colour code chips in it.
 
I think mine is too light to be the Sea Sand.
It does look a lot like the Panama in this image
It likely would have been a base model as had standard brown trims.
I've still got the door trims inside and they are in really good nick last time I looked, so should save some money there.
I guess when it comes time to paint it I might have to get a pot mixed up to see how it compares.
What do people paint theirs in anyway? Normal enamel or 2 pack?
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helbus
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 08:53 PM |
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2 pack is enamel. You can do a solid colour in 2 pack, or Clear Over Base. COB means you lay down a base colour, be it a solid, metallic or pearl
colour, and then put clear on top. Personally I would do a solid colour in 2 pack.
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cabidas
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| posted on January 31st, 2016 at 09:55 PM |
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Interesting. I always just assumed 2 pack was with the clear coat, and enamel was just paint from 1919....
Don't most new cars have clear coat?
Which I think means you can't cut it back...?
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helbus
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 08:52 PM |
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Polyurethane enamel 2K. Not the same as 1919 air dry enamel.
If your glovebox or fuely flap has the original colour inside, that is the best part to remove and have the colour made and matched to.
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cabidas
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 09:40 PM |
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Yeah it's too early to have a fuel cap, but indeed the glovebox lid should be pretty close.
I can't remember if it's still attached or is in a box, but it would have been out of the sun either way.
Will have a squiz tomorrow and maybe try and relate it to the above colour chips or something.
Maybe the colour codes in the list are old colour codes, so someone should still have a book or at least be aware of it.
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vw54
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 05:52 AM |
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| Quote: |
I think mine is too light to be the Sea Sand.
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the colours on the SAMBA are different to Australian colours
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cabidas
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 10:05 AM |
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Yeah on the club VW site it has Sea Sand under Imported. However many of the other colours are the same.
I'm pretty confident mine is Panama Beige. The outside has yellowed a bit as you can see in the pictures. It's not my favorite colour, but can look
really good if done right. And I reckon I want to keep it as original as possible. Would love to have pop out rear windows, but wont be driving the
car enough to really warrant them anyway. So better to keep it stock.
Sea Sand is too dark IMO. And the Safari Beige has a green tinge to it.
Savannah beige is nice, but a later year model according to Club VW.
Dug around today, the glovebox lid is off and will be buried in a box somewhere. Under the steeringwheel gives a clear indication of the paint, but
I'm too early for that anyway.
I've really got to find someone down this way who can work on it, and get a few clearer quotes.
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So basically I'm looking at the following:
- Rebuild the box
- Rebuild the stock 1300 and improve power as much as possible without making the bore walls too thin. Keeping it as stock as possible visually. I'll
think on this some more. Extractors but keep twin exhaust if possible.
- Possible adding of IRS
- Nominal lowering maybe.
- Clear and repaint chassis - Anti Chip in appropriate areas..
- Repaint Shell
- Investigate wide 5 stud disks. Likely keep drums though.
- Install towbar
- Possible new perforated roof lining. It was ok, but it's been 15 years and I might have mangled it as a kid.
- Reupholster seating. Door trims and rear sides should be ok.
- New floor and boot carpets. Embroidered Mats
- New rubbers all round. New windows where needed.
- New chrome where required.
- Steely wide rims. White walls likely.
- Chrome hubcaps.
- 12 Volt conversion... ??
- Timber roof rack. - Maybe rear rack too.
I think that is about it.
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 01:47 PM |
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The paint colours and codes on the Club VW site came from a variety of old Balm / Dulux paint catalogues and sample cards of the time. The Australian
factory often used older parts and supplies to the following year. Older colours could often be found being used into the next year as the stock was
used up, especially for the less common colours. The list is our best guess at what happened in Australia in those years, but don't worry about going
a year either side.
'Imported' means VWs that were NOT made here - most particularly the Karmann Ghia. The Beetles, as Dave said, used Aussie Dulux colours and these
are not listed on The Samba. In fact, from 1968-onwards, many of the colours used by VW in Melbourne were actually Nissan and Volvo colours. You
won't find them on the Samba either.
The 1300 engine was introduced in March 1966, so your car is a 1966, not a 1965. The '65 still had a 1200 engine. The '66 also had improved brakes
and transmission. Our trims and interior materials were also nothing like that US brochure; they were much simpler and more like the earlier models.
'66 was the first year that Aussie VWs got the perforated roof lining - before that it was still the lined 'vynex' upholstery.
We've tried to document many of the Australian changes here:
http://www.clubvw.org.au/austvw001
Beetles raced at Bathurst (and won their class in 1963) with swing axles and drum brakes. The earlier Redex, Ampol and Mobilgas Trial Beetles that
were driven flat out around Australia (on roads far worse than today) were also swing-axle and drum. For a mildly worked street 1300, they will be
fine (if in good restored condition).
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cabidas
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 02:51 PM |
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Thanks! All great info.
Yeah if the Chassis numbers on the Samba are to be believed, mine would likely be an April 1966
784 012 I believe are the last 6 digits of mine. But I can't confirm until I clean it all out, and that won't be happening in the next few weeks I
don't think.
Engine number is F 0421172 which would put it's build date as December 1965.
But as Samba points out, everything after August was counted as the year after. So if that is correct, it would mean the Dec 1965 engine would be
classed as the 1966 1300 as you suggest.
And given it went in a car that is likely dated April, this all seems to align with what you are saying.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php
There are a few steep roads around me but nothing I'd tow a boat over. However as long as it can power up Powers Hill over the Strzelecki to Port
Albert should I feel like a Sunday drive, I'd be more than happy. If I ever get my Chris Craft, Sunday Fish and Chips at Port Albert or similar will
be a must.
The car has the chrome 1300 badge on the rear bonnet, and was the pointy lid with no vents. So presume it was one of the first 1300s in that case.
EDIT: My interior is the standard poo brown of the time, with the creme inserts. The seats are one colour, and as you suggest, no bling. Just vinyl.
I've got the door trims in side too and will put up a photo when I can. They were in top nick last i looked. However my phone camera is now playing
funny buggers ATM...
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cabidas
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 03:36 PM |
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A reset got it going...
The drivers one is likely the one in the poorest condition. But that is to be expected.
They are a bit milduey it seems, so I'm going to have to give them a dust off and a maybe a gentle soap up.
A couple of the clips were out of place on the drivers one, but I've put them back into place. Gunna have to buy some of that magic sponge..
It would be nice to get them all done nice brand new too, but they are in pretty great nick when you consider that they were built 50 years ago...
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cabidas
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 07:20 PM |
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I dunno if I can post this link, but I just found a car which is pretty close to what I want mine to turn out like on facebook. A little bit worn, but
pretty much exactly what I'm thinking, and on the mark when it comes to model, colour, and interior etc.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1681261172147289&set=pcb.11191867...
There are about 9 pics in total with a good write up.
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 06:57 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cabidas
784 012 I believe are the last 6 digits of mine. But I can't confirm until I clean it all out, and that won't be happening in the next few weeks I
don't think.
Engine number is F 0421172 which would put it's build date as December 1965.
But as Samba points out, everything after August was counted as the year after. So if that is correct, it would mean the Dec 1965 engine would be
classed as the 1966 1300 as you suggest.
And given it went in a car that is likely dated April, this all seems to align with what you are saying.
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Again, don't be swayed too much by info on the Samba. It refers to German-made VWs for the US market, and doesn't apply to Australia.
The Australian factory did NOT use the August new model year dating system. Our new model year began the following February, after the workers
returned from the Xmas holiday shutdown. That's why the 1966 1300 Beetle didn't appear in Australian showrooms until March 1966.
By 1966 the engines were locally assembled, using mostly German parts with some Australian-made components such as bearings, seals, tinware and
electrics. An Australian engine could have been made many months after any equivalent engine in Germany. No 1300 engines were made here in 1965.
Don't worry about what the Samba says. Australia is different from the USA.
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cabidas
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 11:49 AM |
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Ah ok.
Would have to be there abouts anyway.
I used to think that mine was a 67, but the rego sticker say 66. Again, will confirm the chassis # when I clean out everyrthing.
If there is local info on chassis and engine numbers correlated somewhere, let me know and I'll take a look. TIA
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on February 4th, 2016 at 07:14 AM |
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Sadly all that specific Australian production data was lost many years ago. The factory closed full production in 1968, when there was a major
upheaval and restucture, and a change of ownership (from Volkswagen Australiasia Ltd to Motor Producers Ltd (owned by VW Germany)), while the VW
distribution, sales and service was taken over by LNC Industries in Sydney (who started a new division called VW Australia). In 1976 the factory was
sold to Nissan. VW assembly under their control ended after 12 months and all VW stuff was cleared out. LNC lost the VW franchise in 1987, and we had
a series of 'third-party' distributors - Ateco, TKM and Inchcape - controlling the VW business. In 2001 today's VW Group Australia was started.
I have documented the Australian VW history on the Club VW website, and I can tell you that just researching the year-to-year sales figures was
difficult enough. To say nowadays, what engine was fitted to what exact car, is just impossible. You can use the chassis number tables and engine code
tables on the Club site to get a good general idea, but that's the best we can do. Several of our members have actually been to Wolfsburg and
accessed their archives to look for any Australian production data (the late Bill Moore especially), but there isn't any. That's why some Aussies
have been disappointed with the results of applying for the 'birth certificate' of mid-60s Australian VWs - Wolfsburg has no records of '19ynnnnn'
chassis numbers that were used here.
Your chassis number should start '19' - that means an Australian-manufactured Beetle. German/US/UK models were of course '11'. Then the THIRD
digit is the year - yours should have a '6'. Then the 784102 number that you've already mentioned. A 1967 Aussie will start 197. In 1968 we went
back to German CKD assembly (and full imports for the semi-auto), so it's 118 from then.
If you're interested in the whole Australia story, start here!
http://www.clubvw.org.au/history
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cabidas
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| posted on February 4th, 2016 at 03:21 PM |
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Thanks again.
So I dug into it just now. Seems I was well off. But the car is indeed a 66.
19 6 330130
As was suggested, Club VW doesn't break it down to months, only year.
http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwchassis
I can be happy with that.
I don't need a birth certificate as such, am more concerned with the year.
It does beg the question though whether my bug was built out of two. I know the previous owners had another one, of which I received spare parts and
panels from.
So I otherwise wouldn't know where the 6 digit code on the rego sticker would have come from.
Will try and hunt them down when I get a chance to to ask.
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on February 6th, 2016 at 01:43 PM |
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As I said before, 'month' data for Australian chassis numbers doesn't exist, so we can't give that data. The Samba is for German-built vehicles,
so Wolfsburg DOES have that data. Doesn't apply to Australian-made cars.
That chassis tells you all you need to know - Australian 1966 model. The 330130 is the individual number of the vehicle within that year.
The only way to get an idea of when it was actually assembled is to look for date stamps. Look at the back of the speedo. Look at the wheel centres,
in between the wheel bolts. Look at the underside of the chrome front blinker covers.
In 1966 sales were dropping and unsold cars were starting to clog the wholesale yards and dealer lots. The car was probably sold many months after it
was assembled, even if you can locate the (approximate) assembly date by the stamps.
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cabidas
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| posted on February 7th, 2016 at 06:03 PM |
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I've inspected my door trims more closely and one mark on the drivers door one is actually a slight nick. I was quite shattered.
Does anyone know a good place that re does Beetle trims verbatim?
I'll have to get the seats redone anyway, so I might consider getting the door trims done at the same time if they can be replicated using the same
material, on the assumption it's available...?? The poo brown colour with the vinyl melted lines..
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cabidas
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| posted on February 9th, 2016 at 10:32 AM |
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So I've spoken to the chap who used to own my bug. He was just a young fella at the time, and was going to do it up for himself but never got to. It
just sat in the shed.
It was his uncles and he had it for about 20 years. Which would have been from about 75.
As far as he knows the body or motor was never swapped or changed, and the other one they had was cooked, and the shell ended up at the tip near me.
So thus far good news.
The legend goes that his uncle never changed the oil in it over the 20 years, only ever topped it up. And when push come to shove he was too scared to
change it as was worried
that the the motor would blow if he did!
Turns out the car was driven up into the shed where it stayed. And I only ended up with it as they had to sell the house and had no where to store
it.
They tried to get it going on the day, but the battery went flat so they just towed it up here...
Apparently it's already had the 12V conversion sans the alternator or something. Dunno how that would work but I'll have to check it out.
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