| [ Total Views: 1468 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 111962 ] |
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 Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 29th, 2016 at 02:44 PM |
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Simple driveline question.
Ok so just bought a 62 beetle, with a 1600 twin port. Lost drive the other day - I'll explain: goes into gear fine clutch out fine but no drive. I
pulled of the passenger rear hubcap and found metal shaving on the lip of the rim, the split pin on castle but was snapped and the axle and castle was
just spinning lots of grinding noises. The bug is seriously low with massive camber, the last owner told me it has euro wheels and runs 185's. It's
my first bug, I've had it for 3 weeks.
So the questions:
My bug must be IRS to get that much camber?
I'm guessing there is the gearbox output, CV, driveshaft and then a spline on the end of the driveshaft that slots into the rear drum? Then I'm
guessing it's the rear drum spline that has failed/been chewed out? So basically I need new drums?
Everything from the chassis down is new, new brakes, reco gearbox, reco engine, new suspension (narrow beam and adjustable spring plate), new
everything with patina body sitting on top. So if this is the case why has the rear drums failed?
Will this be an on going issue with my wide wheels, lowered suspension and camber?
Do I have the whole idea of how my driveline works right? Do both wheel get power from the gearbox or just the passenger side as that seem to be the
one that is spinning?
Cheers guys sorry for the newbie questions.
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dmbvw
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| posted on December 29th, 2016 at 08:08 PM |
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Your bug would be swing axle. You have stripped out the spline in the drum. You need a new drum. Only one side is spinning because of the diff. It
will spin the unloaded side while the other side is stationary. It may or may not happen again.
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 29th, 2016 at 08:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dmbvw
Your bug would be swing axle. You have stripped out the spline in the drum. You need a new drum. Only one side is spinning because of the diff. It
will spin the unloaded side while the other side is stationary. It may or may not happen again.
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How would you "fix" this so it doesn't happen again, I don't want to be stuck one day. Quality high end drums with some sort of guarantee or large
splined shafts and drums???
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hellbugged
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| posted on December 29th, 2016 at 09:16 PM |
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They chew out when they get loose and.or of poor quality.
Get the axle nuts tightened correctly on the new ones.
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 vw54
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 08:23 AM |
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| Quote: |
Will this be an on going issue with my wide wheels, lowered suspension and camber?
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YES you may want to have the suspension raised slightly
I take it your located in Melbourne ???
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 08:51 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
| Quote: |
Will this be an on going issue with my wide wheels, lowered suspension and camber?
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YES you may want to have the suspension raised slightly
I take it your located in Melbourne ???
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Yes I'm in Melbourne, VolksAffair look after my GTI so I might bring the bug to them but can see it becoming $$$$.
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 Bizarre
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 09:09 AM |
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good looks and reliability dont always go together
As said above - raise it a bit
Every inch raised will add longevity to your drive line
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 01:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
good looks and reliability dont always go together
As said above - raise it a bit
Every inch raised will add longevity to your drive line
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Yeah I complete understand. I have 6.2 stroked VE ute, was really low and a pain to drive cause my local council loves speed humps. The solution was
rear bags. Remembering I have just bought the bug and my knowledge is limited at this stage, but surely there is a better solution then raising the
bug, it's a weekender might do 1000kms a year in it. I would have thought someone would have devised something that ensures reliability and
camber/lowered?
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Bizarre
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 01:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Taz62vdub
I would have thought someone would have devised something that ensures reliability and camber/lowered?
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Air bags
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 01:56 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Taz62vdub
I would have thought someone would have devised something that ensures reliability and camber/lowered?
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Air bags
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So same deal as the ute. The ute setup was simple, bought the kit, bolt in, 5hrs was done. Can anyone recommend a kit/brand?
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ACE76
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 02:39 PM |
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How could the rear axle or its splines be broken by a 1600? Would it mean that the rear axle nut had been loose for a while and the whole lot was
wobbling about under load?
If it's due to a loose nut, would it be just OK to renew the parts?
ACE 30 & ACE 40 oil: specially formulated for your Air Cooled Engine...
Delivery free Outer Eastern Melb. & Dandenong Ranges.
from$19 for 2.5L (spot-on for 1 fill, re-use bottle to measure), or $29 for 5L (2 fills)
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 03:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ACE76
How could the rear axle or its splines be broken by a 1600? Would it mean that the rear axle nut had been loose for a while and the whole lot was
wobbling about under load?
If it's due to a loose nut, would it be just OK to renew the parts?
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I think it the spline on the drum that has been grinded out. Probably had been loose for awhile I have only had the car a few weeks.
Well i was hoping it was just a new drum, but I don't want to replace the drum just to have the same issue, the drums that are on it are relative
new, no more then 12 months old as it was built 12 months ago.... I'm about 100mm from side skirt/step to ground, so honestly didn't think I was
that low to cause an ongoing reliability issue. But if air ride mean I can drive the car whenever I want and wherever I want hassle free then maybe
bags are the answer.
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HappyDaze
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| posted on December 30th, 2016 at 04:55 PM |
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The fact that the drums are "relatively new" rings alarm bells with me. Try to get hold of a pair of good 2nd hand original drums, as they are much
better quality than the 'new' after market drums.
Hopefully, the axle splines are OK, as they would be harder than the crap drums that have obviously been fitted. Make sure the axle nuts are tightened
to the correct torque, and regularly.
And raise the rear end...that will remove a lot of the load on the splines.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Taz62vdub
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| posted on January 3rd, 2017 at 07:31 PM |
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Do both wheels drive (LSD) or is it just the passenger side?
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ACE76
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| posted on January 13th, 2017 at 02:50 PM |
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Both wheels should get the same amount of drive in normal operation... The factory/standard diff's are all conventional types (apart from some rare
1960's factory LSD ones) using spiral-bevel final drive.
ALL factory rear ends are independent (IRS), so it's unclear to just use that label.
Earlier ones are SWING-AXLE: larger-looking Closed Drive-shaft.
Later ones are FOUR-JOINT: thinner-looking Open Drive-shaft, with 4 C.V.-universal joints (often called "IRS").
It's easy to look underneath (subject to lowering!) to see which type of rear axle it is.
If lowering causes "massive camber", you probably have the earlier swing-axle type. It's meant to be bad to have a swing-axle with large camber as
it can starve the rear wheel bearings of lubricant (oil from the diff.).
ACE 30 & ACE 40 oil: specially formulated for your Air Cooled Engine...
Delivery free Outer Eastern Melb. & Dandenong Ranges.
from$19 for 2.5L (spot-on for 1 fill, re-use bottle to measure), or $29 for 5L (2 fills)
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