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Author: Subject:  Bay ball joint front end into a Splitty
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posted on August 20th, 2017 at 07:46 PM
Bay ball joint front end into a Splitty


Has anybody done this conversion?If so-how big were the headaches?I have to also do an IRS conversion to fit a Type3 auto trans.I am assuming the IRS job is similar to converting a Beetle.Do you use the Bus torsion bars? I am using all the rear suspension from the Type3.
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posted on August 21st, 2017 at 12:16 AM



Sent you a PM m8.
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posted on August 21st, 2017 at 03:14 PM



Have to use a 68 or early 69 bay beam, same mounting holes, track is a little wider so might need to offset your wheels, unless your going to narrow the beam then you can use later beams with the Welded in side plates to suit splitty



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posted on August 21st, 2017 at 06:02 PM



Thanks Mike-if I use a later beam,where do I get the side plates from? Or is it something I can fabricate.I seem to remember years ago reading a thread on somebody modifying a Bay beam with some fabbed steel plates,but I have searched here and can't find anything.
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posted on August 22nd, 2017 at 09:00 AM



http://www.kuch.com.au/laser/ 



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posted on August 24th, 2017 at 10:39 AM



Use late bay beam.
narrow 4"
Use 2 x 1" wheel adaptor to get back to 5x205

Track width will be stock split.

Install adjusters to lower 1.5" to stock split height.

I myself am in this situation and am gathering the necessary parts for the modification.

What I have not decided is the castor, whether to add in an 8-10 degree castor to help with handling or leave it stock.
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posted on August 24th, 2017 at 02:43 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dmbvw
http://www.kuch.com.au/laser/ 



http://freshkustoms.com/product-category/type-2/ 




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posted on August 24th, 2017 at 05:54 PM



Thanks splitbus-plenty of info on those sites.
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posted on August 26th, 2017 at 02:47 AM



Make sure you use bus adjusters and not bug ones.
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posted on October 20th, 2017 at 10:04 PM



Been working on stuff for the other end.Picked up a motor and auto trans from a Type 3 for this project.The motor hadn't been started for about 7 years.While still in the trailer,I hooked up a battery,a drum of fuel and tried to start it.Fuel pump wouldn't suck anything.Pulled the lid off and filled it with fuel,tipped some down the carbs and eventually it started and ran and even idled straight away.I had an oil pressure gauge on it and went to 60psi straight away then stayed at 50 while I revved it-no smoke or noise.When it warmed up,idled at 25psi.Stripped all the Type 3 shit off ready to convert to upright.Decided to take the heads off for a freshen up.Valves were perfect,but the 4 exhaust guides were stuffed.Set each head up in the mill-took out the old guides and fitted new units.Gave the valves about a 1 minute lap in which gave a perfect pattern.Decided on a new set of barrels and pistons as well.Got a 1641 kit from Rod Penrose as well as all new tin ware for upright conversion.Cut and shut the Type3 extractors today to make them suitable to fit the Bus.Making the connecting tubes for the heater air from some 1 7/8 exhaust tube.Made some adaptors to fit pod filters over the type 3 Carbs.I made the same set up when fitting Type 3 carbs on my Buggy.I stripped the carbs down completely and grit blasted everything,then fitted a major overhaul kit to each.Still needs the IRS conversion and fabbing brackets to fit the auto trans into position.

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