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Author: Subject:  Purvis Eureka F4 Build
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posted on October 5th, 2017 at 03:16 PM
Purvis Eureka F4 Build


Hi All,
So as you may know, I have recently bought a Purvis Eureka kit car.
I thought I should start a new thread on it.
I don't know the year as it is not stamped on the body, and I haven't had a chance to check the floor-pan for a year on that. It is white and in ok condition, but needs a fair bit of work.
Some of the main issues are, the motor is very strange (Details Below), the interior looks like a nuclear war has happened inside, the roof isn't working, and over-all it is in bad condition.
It was last registered in 1987 and hasn't run since 1980something, the motor is really bad, but the crank has absolutely no end play or float, it turns freely, but the issues are:
It needs a distributor,
It has a strange engine number, V********P so I don't actually know what it is. I believe it to be a type 4 motor that has been converted to an upright motor.
It leaks fuel into the oil and the oil smells and tastes burnt.
The distributor doesn't hold vacuum pressure at all.
And finally the generator sounds like a bag of nails in a blender.
So, the Eureka needs a fair bit, but any help is greatly appreciated.'
Thanks
Michael.

PS I have joined the Eureka Club and Facebook page.

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posted on October 5th, 2017 at 03:16 PM



More Pictures

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posted on October 5th, 2017 at 03:54 PM



The engine number looks like a police number. When you buy a new case, there are no numbers so you take it to them and they stamp a new number. Starting with V I expect that it was done in Victoria and the P at the end would stand for Police.

Good luck with the project.

Yogie
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posted on October 5th, 2017 at 04:20 PM



Oh ok thanks.



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posted on October 6th, 2017 at 07:51 AM



I don't think that's a type 4 either. They never came with a SP head as an option. Could be a SP1600 or smaller... which will make your life easier. Type 4 stuff is getting expensive and difficult to find.

Edit; doghouse cooler on the back probably means it's a 1600.
Your fuel pump is junk. That's why there's fuel in the oil.
Convert over to a alternator. Simple and much better for electrics.

P.s. seems to be a lot of room around the motor at the back. Perfect for a turbo. :yes:




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posted on October 6th, 2017 at 11:04 AM



Definite type 1

Cool score though




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posted on October 6th, 2017 at 12:21 PM



Hi,
Thanks for that info,
My cousin is doing a twin turbo Subaru swap in his PL-30 but hop-ups on the flat four I have will be the best I can do for a while, until I get a full license no turbos' for me :sniffle:
Thanks,
Michael




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posted on October 14th, 2018 at 09:27 AM



Hi,
I have finally resurfaced from the cave that is the study, year 10 exams are the worst, I have now though got a direction to head with my car, which has sat untouched but not unloved for over 12 months.
So here it is:
Kombi Engine and transmission.
Ford 5 lug front and rear hubs and brakes.
No re-gel coating, just a good clean and polish.
Re-Stickering everything.
Black with white trim interior.
Projector Style lights from a Jeep
New wheels and tyres.
New Windows and Windscreen
Re wire
Then rego.
I would love to have it done by March, so I can get my L's with it, not my Mum's kid-hauler van, But at the latest it will hopefully be this time next year for the Eureka car club meet in Port Macquarie.

Feel free to chime in and let me know what you thing may not work or what I need to add or change to make it safe, because safety is my main priority with this car, any and all comments are always welcome.

Thanks M




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posted on October 14th, 2018 at 09:34 AM



Sounds good. Give me a holler if you need anything when you are in Port Macquarie



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posted on October 14th, 2018 at 09:51 AM



Ok will do Jeff, you probably know who is storing the car for me Graheme Kirkman, He and Nathan both have eureka's and are going to give me a hand :)
M




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posted on October 14th, 2018 at 04:59 PM



I figured you would be catching up with them. Both real good blokes.



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posted on January 10th, 2019 at 01:29 AM



We are making progress. The engine now runs for the first time since 1980something. With a new dizzy and coil, some new fuel and about 3 hours of work she burped coughed and farted her way back to life. I am no longer going to build a big engine but instead keep what is possibly the strongest, most torquey and all round best 1500 single's I have ever seen or heard.

I then went on to run a complete lot of new brake lines and bled them, and found out that the front and rear brakes have been completely rebuilt prior to my purchase. I dodged a major bullet there, from what I heard, redoing rear drums are incredibly difficult when you have no experience with drum brakes.

I hand polished the old gelcoat as it was an unknown, I didn't want to burn through it with a machine polisher, so I polished it with a restorer and then a buffing/polishing compound, and won't be repainting the car as it is too good as is.

I have found that the seats don't fit right so replacement correct seats will be purchased. The "Stock" gauge pod obscured too much of my view out the windscreen, so I will be removing that and putting the gauges into the dash board. The floor pan is 100% perfect so it will be getting a coat of stone-guard underneath and POR15 on top. The front beam as we discovered was also completely rebuilt before I purchased the car, but the tie-rods were disconnected for an unknown reason but were fine nonetheless.
I have arranged a set of Globe wheels to go on the car, and now I am saving up for the rest of the bits to go on the car. My completion date of rego by October is looking slightly more achievable now.

Pics and videos will be uploaded late today, but for now I think a sleep is in order.
Thanks
M




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posted on January 13th, 2019 at 09:18 PM



Great work :-)



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posted on January 14th, 2019 at 07:13 PM



Great to hear it is coming along

That will be one kool car!




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posted on January 15th, 2019 at 12:23 PM
Pics


Well, better late then never i guess, here are some pics.

I have also found that the suspension is too high, so I will be lowering the car about 2 inches in the rear, which will level the car out a bit more and get rid of the "Stink-Bug" stance.

M

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posted on January 16th, 2019 at 09:45 AM



Purvis Eurekas suffered badly from engine overheating, like lots of kit cars.
It's critical that the hot air coming out under the engine doesn't swirl around and get sucked back into the fan intake, or it just goes round and round until the engine overheats. VW went to great lengths to prevent this happening, tin plates and rubber seals in type 1 & 2 and the rubber bellows and side vents in type 3.
You need to include this in your planning. Perhaps a type 3 style bellows to a duct, either under the car pointing forward or to the vents above the engine. It's tricky but necessary.
Wish I had one, good luck.
Cheers
Tony




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posted on January 17th, 2019 at 10:41 AM



I agree, they do overheat without the side air-ducts. I am ordering them new, as my car didn't have them, and that forces airflow even at low speeds similar to the lamborghini countach air grabbers do. They also have side air intakes that force air around the engine and out the back, so far with these added I think one two people have cooked engines, but that was also not helped by low oil and stop start traffic around town.

M




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posted on January 18th, 2019 at 11:52 AM



In the top picture above .........did you get a second body?



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posted on January 18th, 2019 at 03:04 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
In the top picture above .........did you get a second body?


No, that is a sports model with the low roof, and 4 cars over is a PL-30 (The middle model).

Mine is an F4 which is the last model, with the most passenger head room, and the best in regards to engine cooling as stated above.




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