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Author: Subject:  Fuel Pump Push Rod Issues
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posted on April 7th, 2019 at 01:15 PM
Fuel Pump Push Rod Issues


Over the last week or so the Notch has developed an engine Clatter...
A couple of weeks ago the Pivot Pin in the Fuel Pump worked its way out causing no fuel. Luckily it fell onto the top of the motor and was easily retrieved.
I put it back in on the side of the road and continued on our way.
A few days later I notice the clatter on start up then faded while warming up in Neutral. In drive (Auto) under no load it got worse again then settled once under load. Travelling about 70km to Laura yesterday she ran fine but got noisy while idling along in the Parade. Fine again at highway speeds on the way home.
So today after doing the Tappets which were due I warmed up the motor and found the clatter was from near or in the Fuel Pump.
Pulled Pump off, it was ok. Went to pull Pump Rod up and it wouldn't come out. Pulled with pliers bringing up the whole guide assembly to find this...

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[size=5]DUBS BY THE RIVER2021[/size] Morgan SA - Sept 18-19 2021

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posted on April 7th, 2019 at 01:18 PM



Total length of Pushrod 98mm.
Went and pulled one out of Rusty Red the Squareback which has been donating a few parts lately. 108mm with rounded end.
Quite different.

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[size=5]DUBS BY THE RIVER2021[/size] Morgan SA - Sept 18-19 2021

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posted on April 7th, 2019 at 01:24 PM



So now I need to get a 100mm Pushrod with the correct end.
All I can guess is that someone has cut down a 108mm at some stage to replace one. The hard facing that would be on the proper end would be gone and the fuel pump spring would have helped cause the mushrooming. Anyone else ever found this?




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posted on April 7th, 2019 at 09:43 PM



it totally depends on the pump you have, i remember the alternator pumps having a shorter pump rod i think?
could be too much to drink




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posted on April 8th, 2019 at 02:57 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by barls
it totally depends on the pump you have, i remember the alternator pumps having a shorter pump rod i think?
could be too much to drink

Most of the alternator pumps were fitted to
the 1600 beetle, perhaps as Dion says one of these pumps has been fitted and the rod ground down to suit, there is no way that a rod that short would pump fuel from a normal pump You may also have a good look at the drive lobe on the distributor gear.
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posted on April 8th, 2019 at 05:47 PM



take a pic of your fuel pump first see if it alternator or generator type



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posted on April 8th, 2019 at 06:12 PM



According to Sept edition of Hot VW's mag, generator style pump uses a 108mm rod and alternator pump uses a 100mm rod on a Beetle motor. Don't have a Type3 so unsure whether this info is relevant
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posted on April 8th, 2019 at 09:44 PM



it could be that the lever inside your pump was faulty and then repaired making up 8 mm by someone then matched the rod to fit but seems to habe worn further



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posted on April 8th, 2019 at 09:44 PM



Dropped the 108 from my other type 3 in. Wound the engine till it was at its lowest point and could not get the fuel pump back on as the rod sat too high. Have ordered a 100mm from Mick Motors today.
Also added a bit to the 98mm rod with the MIG and have ground it and reshaped it to suit. Works well. Turns out it wasn't the cause of clattering noise though. More on that soon. Have videoed it with my phone and will work out how to post it tomorrow.
Running under load in Park we have clatter although I may need to adjust the selector as Park may be partially engaging reverse. With a few revs on (1000rpm approx) the clatter dies down.
In Neutral the idle is about 8-850rpm and no Clatter, and none when reved either.
In Drive or Reverse the engine clatters while idling (foot on brake) but dies away once under load.
Sound is prominent around Generator or perhaps fan area.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.




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posted on April 9th, 2019 at 08:15 AM



Did a bit of research last night and will check generator bearings by taking the fan belt off and then next step will be to check the fan itself.



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posted on April 9th, 2019 at 09:01 AM



Make sure the 3 torque convertor bolts are tight.
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posted on April 10th, 2019 at 08:27 AM



The alloy fan housing is held on with 4 x 6mm bolts / screws
Sometimes these come loose and get between the fan and the housing making a scratching sound they need to have a dob of locktite on the threads or the heads drill and tie wired so they don't come loose

this happened to my cars about 3 times over the years




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posted on April 10th, 2019 at 08:29 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by wombatventures
Dropped the 108 from my other type 3 in. Wound the engine till it was at its lowest point and could not get the fuel pump back on as the rod sat too high. Have ordered a 100mm from Mick Motors today.
Also added a bit to the 98mm rod with the MIG and have ground it and reshaped it to suit. Works well. Turns out it wasn't the cause of clattering noise though. More on that soon. Have videoed it with my phone and will work out how to post it tomorrow.
Running under load in Park we have clatter although I may need to adjust the selector as Park may be partially engaging reverse. With a few revs on (1000rpm approx) the clatter dies down.
In Neutral the idle is about 8-850rpm and no Clatter, and none when reved either.
In Drive or Reverse the engine clatters while idling (foot on brake) but dies away once under load.
Sound is prominent around Generator or perhaps fan area.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The engine fan is riveted together with a rubber insulation between the hub and the fan, this is a common knock/rattle at idle on the type 3 engines.
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posted on April 12th, 2019 at 01:36 PM



Took the fan belt off last night and ran it. That discounts the generator as a source.
The sound seems to be more at the fan end or possibly number 4 cylinder. Will check the torque converter bolts on the weekend. Next after that will be the fan.
Next possibility is piston slap,but will cross that bridge once I've discounted other possible faults.




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posted on April 13th, 2019 at 03:01 PM



Checked the Torque converter bolts last night Gary, all ok. Cheers

Sorry about bouncing here and KC Grumble. The drill and cut worked on the bad exhaust stud nuts got 2 almost off before they snapped, 2 by working them back and forth and cut the nuts on the 2 worst one. Going to put new studs and gaskets in anyway since they're off.
Fan is exposed and looks ok. As its an auto I don't have the means to restrain the crank shaft pulley to crack the 30mm bolt to get at the fan (Have checked the Hayne's - "The crankshaft can be locked by jamming a screwdriver in the fly wheel teeth."), or a torque wrench to put it back on. (Pretty sure my torque wrench is at my folks place over 200km away!)
There doesn't seem to be any movement in the rivets where I can see them. No loose bolts visible but they would be behind the fan. Do I go further or start looking elsewhere...
Distributor drive, fuel pump drive, pistons, rods.....




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posted on April 13th, 2019 at 04:25 PM



This is the fuel pump for those that were asking. Brazilian made.

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