| [ Total Views: 1203 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 15973 ] |
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 Brad
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| posted on November 20th, 2003 at 01:49 PM |
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IRS Shock cannister modification
One of the big problems with an IRS rear end is the shock canisters and the way they hang down and catch on things. There is several methods for
dealing with this. The one that I find the best and easiest to do is simply modifying it by an inch and tapering it backwards. This allows you to
still run the factory shocks and get full travel from the rear end. If you are notching your spring plate or modifying your bump stop to get that
extra few inches it will also mean stock shocks are still long enough.
Basically you cut out the flat area above the shock mount holes and then weld it up again. I will get some better pictures of a set I am doing soon
and show exactly where to cut. Until then you should get the idea from the finished product. No metal is added and it really is a simple thing to do.
The finished product, you can see the difference. This is free ground clearance.
The front is tapered backwards to assist in sliding over things.
Make sure you test fit the shock and ensure you don't limit its movemnet
Finished product. Now get ot there and test it.
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 vw54
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| posted on November 20th, 2003 at 03:36 PM |
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Looks good simple idea,.... but i dont run over things ( except speed bumps ) cause i am streeting
simple ideas are always good.
so how many have you wipped out
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Brad
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| posted on November 20th, 2003 at 04:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
so how many have you wipped out
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Enough.:P The big problem is when they get caught they take weight of your drive wheel which in turns means you are stuck ... which is very
uncool.
:cry
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wibble
A.k.a.: Warren Way
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| posted on December 25th, 2003 at 09:03 PM |
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so do you want lots of pics taken when I set up my high mount shock set up Brad??
for anyone not in the know, I have an early link/king pan with notched, irs, bus trans rear (fairly high) and because of the very nice exhaust I have
clearence probs with the shocks, so going with a high mount set up is cheaper and more effective than building a new exhaust.. |
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Brad
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| posted on February 3rd, 2004 at 11:38 AM |
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mm
yep :thumb
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 21st, 2004 at 08:41 PM |
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C'mon wibble, I've been waiting 4 months for photo's :thumb:P
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Desert Moose
A.k.a.: Chris Hill
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 12:11 AM |
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hey Brad lookin' good but lol , did you do the top mount as well or have you lost shock travel
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11CAB
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| posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 06:55 PM |
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It allows the suspension to be jacked up without having to change to longer shocks.
65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab
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Brad
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| posted on April 24th, 2004 at 01:24 PM |
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mmm
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Desert Moose
hey Brad lookin' good but lol , did you do the top mount as well or have you lost shock travel
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What is Shock travel ??? I am guessing the amount of up and down movement a shock has when bolted to the suspension. If so then yes I have lost 25mm
of it.
BUT ,..... I have lost no wheel travel and that is all I care about. The stock length Monroe Gas Shock works fine and allows my trailing arm to swing
through the full arc.
I have left my bottom spring plate stopper in place as I don't need any more wheel travel and wanted to leave as much stock as possible. I can get
another 40mm or lift out of the rear if I want by moving it down and still retain stock shocks and mounting position.
I have type 2 CV's on both ends of my axle. With Porsche stubs on the outside to allow
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Desert Moose
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| posted on April 25th, 2004 at 08:05 PM |
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| Quote: | What is Shock travel
??? I am guessing the amount of up and down movement a shock has when bolted to the suspension. If so then yes I have lost 25mm of it.
BUT ,..... I have lost no wheel travel and that is all I care about. The stock length Monroe Gas Shock works fine and allows my trailing arm to swing
through the full arc.
I have left my bottom spring plate stopper in place as I don't need any more wheel travel and wanted to leave as much stock as possible. I can get
another 40mm or lift out of the rear if I want by moving it down and still retain stock shocks and mounting position.
I have type 2 CV's on both ends of my axle. With Porsche stubs on the outside to allow
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Cool. I'm not that good with stock arms/ spring plates.
And I see your point about stock stuff ( its easy to buy if you stuff it on a trip). Plus if you did lose any travel you would make it up on ground
clearance.
:thumb
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 12:54 PM |
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Hey Brad, I don't suppose yopu ahve the pics to show exactly where to cut do you? I can see roughly how much it is so there is no real hassle. Just
wondering cos I am doign this in the next few days.
Cheers
Dance like a blind person |
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Brad
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 09:49 PM |
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sorry thats all I have
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Jamox
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| posted on December 8th, 2004 at 01:21 PM |
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No worries Brad! I'd have to be more useless than I am if I actually needed more pics! It is clear enough in these pics anyway. I will give it a
go.
Cheers
Dance like a blind person
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WABaja
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| posted on January 11th, 2005 at 07:02 PM |
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Jamox, have you done this yet...???
If not, check out how we did mine..
IRS, boxed trailing arms, Very simple to do, (email me for full details) and while they were being boxed we cut the ugly shockie mounts off and moved
them to high mounts on TOP of the trailing arms, set them up for double shocks per side if I want to put another set on later..
Top mount is incoperated into the rear top bar of the engine cage and this bar plumbs through the wheel well and into the rear section of the full
cage..
It's a bit of work, but if you're going full on, it's the best way I could find of setting up your rear shock...
Have a look..
I hate to admit it, but man, I think you're right....
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Jamox
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| posted on January 12th, 2005 at 05:19 PM |
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Struth Danny! I like the sound of it but just thinking about it gives me the shivers.
I have already done my mods. I made the kombi kit, transferred all my suspension bits, modified stuff, put it all bak in and WALLA! Stuffed
mainshaft bearing in the gearbox.
It still makes me want to cry. I am so dissapointed. At least it isn't goign to be too hard to get the engine and gearbox out. How hard is it to
change a mainshafdt bearing?
Anyway, that is why I might give the shockie mods a miss for a bit. THat and the fact that I would have to make a roolcage (are they legal???) cut
holes in my car (jeepers) and probably stuff it and end up with an alfoil ball.
So yeh. THanks for the idea, I would love to have a looka t your set up; and I will one of these days.
Rightio then,
Jamox
Dance like a blind person
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WABaja
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| posted on January 13th, 2005 at 02:22 AM |
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Well one day I might come for a drive down to Dumbleflung and suprise you...:P
Oh, forgot to mention... My car is a convertable as you know, now they are required by law to have a roll bar, so I thought, why not stretch the
frendship a bit, and make it a full race cage...?!?!?
I mean, it can only make the car Safer..... Right...???
[Edited on 12-1-2005 by WABaja]
I hate to admit it, but man, I think you're right....
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