| [ Total Views: 1676 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 18573 ] |
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 speedster356
A.k.a.: Peter Mcleod
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 08:58 PM |
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rack and pinion steering
Anyone got any info on this modification to a lowered BJ front end?
McRae (the manufacturer of my Spyder replica) used a Barrina rack narrowed, and he also tweeked the arms off the spindles?
I guess he was narrowing the rack to have as long a tie rod (is that the name) as possible? And the arm tweeking was to keep the tie rods a flat as
possible.....does this sound a solid theory?
I would like to set my car up for hillclimb and circuit.
Any help would be appreciated.
Please don't turn this into a flaming section.....
Spyder-WISD 07-09-05 11.6s @ 125 MPH
Speedster-WISD Nats 05 14.4s @ 89 MPH
Jet cruiser-Coogee 22-09-05 900 deg C @ 110,000 rpm
Weaseling out of things is what separates us from the animals....................Except the Weasel.
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Cam
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 09:39 PM |
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I know that CBPerformance http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=899 offer a rack and pinion kit for offroading. It's a nice small
tight unit. I'm assuming being a new racing product that it could offer abit of adjustment and so on.
They also offer tie-rods to mate up with the R&P and their front ends. Other than that... I've heard of Porsche parts being used and even one
out of a Gemini. But not sure on the ins and outs of the conversion as yet.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 09:48 PM |
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Woh have you ever opened a can of worms, no the rack has probably not been narrowed but from where i sit that is pretty hard to see, but they have
prob moded the arms out to the tie rods, and then have modified the distance between the pivot of the ball joints and the tie rod end(it is illegal to
modify steering components by the way) to get the ratio right at the steering wheel.With out seeing the car and what the wheels do in the steering
department threw full suspension i'mm sorry but this is as much as i can tell you. ANDREW
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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bajaman64
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 09:50 PM |
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I am looking into using a 89 Corolla (AE92) r+p. Thought about it after changing the one on the missus car.
Todd :jesus
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speedster356
A.k.a.: Peter Mcleod
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 10:11 PM |
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My Spyder still has the original VW steering box, the mod I would like to do is fit a R&P.
I think the steering arms are "bent" up so as to keep the tie rods parrallel with the ground at a neutral stance. (it also has lots of +
caster at the moment!)
The narrow rack is mounted in the centre so as to have equal length tie rods.
Being an ICV then suspension or steering mods just need to be accompanied by both NDT results and engineering signatory approval.
cheers
Spyder-WISD 07-09-05 11.6s @ 125 MPH
Speedster-WISD Nats 05 14.4s @ 89 MPH
Jet cruiser-Coogee 22-09-05 900 deg C @ 110,000 rpm
Weaseling out of things is what separates us from the animals....................Except the Weasel.
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 5th, 2004 at 10:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by A Westwood
(it is illegal to modify steering components by the way) ANDREW
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I don't think you can modify them yourself, but you can definitlely have engineered steering components fitted. Sometimes this will incur the
cost of an Xray, depending on the component.
I know of an engineer that will supply R&P kits for another type of vehicle (not VW) and there are different V6, V8 etc kits. In one of them, a
$250 charge for Xray and certificate for a particular welded component is necessary.
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Flintstones
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| posted on February 6th, 2004 at 06:59 AM |
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A gemini rack won't work as it is on the wrong side of the axle.
Look at a camira, same side and has the long tie rods that meet at the centre. This is what I'll be using.
Cheers
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vw54
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| posted on February 6th, 2004 at 07:48 PM |
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Pete
Get one of the R/P set ups like in the new drag car. Vintage has them
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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 posted on February 6th, 2004 at 09:24 PM |
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Flinstones do your self a favour before buying a camira rack that the ratio is right for the distance between ball joint pivot and tierod end, as if
this is not right you could end up with either half a turn lock to lock or 10 turns lock to lock,either way not nice JAN . A few years ago when i was
thinking of going this way i heard a tip that a Honda Civic rack was good for the ratio's, hope this helps. ANDREW
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on February 7th, 2004 at 12:14 PM |
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Keeping the rack tie rods as level as possible is intended to reduce the amount of front wheel toe in/out changes as the suspension moves up and down
in its travel.
If the arms droop down from the rack to the spindles with the suspensin at rest then when the suspension drops, say under braking then with the
spindles being steered from the rear, as it the case with a kraut, the wheels will toe in heavily.
The reverse is true if the rack arms are rising up to the spindles and this will produce pronounced toe out under brakes.
Both of these conditions in excess will contribute to bump steering, instability over bumps and gross tyre wear and the toe out will also produce
straight line instability under braking.
The settings can be fiddled with a certain degree to get different characteristics but as a baseline point, having them level at rest is a good
start.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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OvalGlen
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| posted on March 28th, 2004 at 09:48 PM |
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wow , am about to get a rack and pinion to set up on race car, didnt realise there was so much involved.
I wonder if the front end on this new car has any suspesion travel?
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so thanks guys, gives me something to check and ask about.
Regards,Glenn>
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