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Author: Subject:  1916's and so on (edited yet again) - stay on track please.
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posted on November 27th, 2010 at 05:35 AM



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0o4Yt6ew1M&feature=player_embedded 



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posted on November 27th, 2010 at 07:38 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.

What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.

I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.



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posted on April 21st, 2011 at 03:05 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN


I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.




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info.gif posted on April 21st, 2011 at 07:51 PM
1641 --1776 1835- 1915 - engines...


Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.

What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.

I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.

Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.



Hi Josh,

some big asks there....

Firstly, I would not spend all that money on parts and then maybe assembly it incorrectly... or one part incorrectly.. like oil pickup etc.. Best to buy one from an expert engine builder..

Burn outs require some horsepower so probably a 1776 engine would do the trick... or larger and more expensive..

but remember, that once You move away from a 1600 standard engine , everything gets very expensive the larger You go....
and soon doubles or triples in price... and will probably use a lot of fuel...

I am happy with My 1600 single port engine even though it has the semi auto gearbox and no clutch pedal.. lol
single Brasilan weber carby.. Genie extractor exhaust system.
165 x 15 tyres..

I can only spin the wheels on gravel or grass... lol
but I can drive out on the highway at 120kmh ...
[but only between the hours of 2am and 4am... lol ,
so I'm told... :lol:]

late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..

check out a few of the advertisers in VWMA magazine...

like Gary at VW classic volkswagen at Kirawee in NSW
http://www.veedubclassic.com.au  0295215333
there are plenty of others in the Magazine too...

cheers

LEE

PS: I don't know Gary...

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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 09:59 PM



If building a streetable 1916, are there any other parts outside of the motor that need to be beefed up?
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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 10:40 PM



gear box, brakes for a start.



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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 10:46 PM



Comes down to how you drive, but I would cetainly upgrade the way the gearbox is mounted as a min. Look at using quality gearbox mounts, a bellhousing strap of some kind and a 'mid mount' to support the gearbox. If you intend to use tyres with good grip, then you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit as the better tyres will cause "tramping" on launching away from lights etc

Make sure the gearbox is in good condition, and if you intend to do drag starts or you're aggresive with launches then I would fit a super diff.

As for brakes, make sure you have discs fitted up front if the car is an early model.

Depending on the HP level of the motor you will also need larger fuel lines and an electric fuel pump and regulator.

:tu:




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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 10:51 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
:tu:


Where can one get these???:lol:




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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 11:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by silver
Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
:tu:


Where can one get these???:lol:


Maybe a swap meet ? !:lol:




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posted on April 26th, 2011 at 11:20 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
Quote:
Originally posted by silver
Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
you should also fit a K Bar kit for reinforcing the forks and also a tramp bar kit
:tu:


Where can one get these???:lol:


Maybe a swap meet ? !:lol:


surely not, could a business afford to attend one?




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posted on June 8th, 2011 at 11:06 PM



Lee,

Where does the yellow vacume line go?

Cheers

Newt




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posted on June 8th, 2011 at 11:45 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug


late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..


actually the later boxes have a lower diff ratio lee.
when they went from the double side plate to single side plate they went from 4.125 to 3.88




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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 08:17 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by barls
Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug


late Super beetle gearboxes have a higher diff ratio etc.. so they are used for highway cars usually... but a lower diff ratio will give You better acceleration... You need to pick one??
Lower diff ratio means higher RPM at highway speeds..


actually the later boxes have a lower diff ratio lee.
when they went from the double side plate to single side plate they went from 4.125 to 3.88







Hey Barls
:crazy:3.88 is a taller ratio than 4.125:borg:
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 08:50 AM



:lol::lol::lol:

He He....lower in number-higher in ratio... get's em every time !!!!:smilegrin:




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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 09:21 AM



The part hardly anyone seems to realize though is at the same time they dropped 4th gear back from 0.89 to 0.92 to compensate for the diff change.

I've had both a 4.125 and a 3.88 box in my bug and the difference in 4th gear is only about 50rpm.

They both cruise almost bang on 3000rpm at 100km/h with stock size tyres.
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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 01:20 PM



:lol:



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posted on November 16th, 2011 at 10:38 PM



I'm going 2332cc with my new buggy motor.

Rima case CNC machined
84mm forged chromoly C/W Scat crank
94mm Wiseco forged pistons
Mahle cylinders
Scat H beam rods
Scat C95 cam
CB lightweight lifters
44 x 37.5 Wedgeport heads
1.25 rockers
Bosch 019 Distributor
Dual 44 IDF Webers with matchported manifolds


26mm Schadek oil pump set up for full flow




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posted on March 12th, 2012 at 08:51 PM



would you need to run an electric fuel pump with this or is std ok thanks



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posted on December 21st, 2012 at 10:30 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1916
Aluminium case
69mm forged counterweighted crank
fk8 cam
Cb super race rods 5.5" (these are th h beams)
1.4 rockers
94mm b (Stroker) piston and barrell kit
aluminium pushrods
aircooled.net L6 (drd) ported heads with 42x37.5 valves
9.5:1 compression
microtech injection (or something similar) perhaps using injection perfection throttle bodies.

that would be the main parts used for the 1916 i would like to build.

should make good power and hopefully rev to 7500


One suggestion for you. Get yourself a stroker crank, say 76 or 78mm. If you are buying all that other great gear, may as well step it up a bit. Besides, the heads sound like they can suck and blow heaps through those bigger ports. Forget the 1916, over 2.0 litres would be real nice.
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posted on February 25th, 2017 at 07:37 PM



what sort if deck height should one strive for on a bigger engine e.g a 1776 or 2332 etc??
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posted on February 25th, 2017 at 08:49 PM



40 thou - 1mm



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posted on February 25th, 2017 at 09:14 PM



so just the standard tolerance is ok?
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posted on February 26th, 2017 at 05:05 PM



have a read here

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-parts-cat/vw-engine-build-combos/ 




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posted on February 26th, 2017 at 09:15 PM



thanks. :)
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