| [ Total Views: 934 | Total Replies: 25 | Thread Id: 19130 ] |
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 Secoh
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 04:59 PM |
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Ok, what's the secret?!?! pushrod tubes
I need to change the pushrod tube seals on my baja. do I need to remove the head to do this, or is there some secret uber nifty trick?
If it aint broke,
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 vw54
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 05:08 PM |
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Best off to remove the engine and tinware, heads off and fit new German Tubes with new German seals... pre stretch the tubes slightly
Dont buy the cheap brazialian crap or you will be doing the job in a few months time again.
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Secoh
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 05:11 PM |
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not what I wanted to hear, but thanks...
:cry:cry:cry
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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 Peter Leonard
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 05:29 PM |
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you can get collapsible pushrod tubes, which are a lot less hassle to fit (no head removal) but they're not as good  this would allow you to fit new seals but...
let sleeping dubs lie
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vw54
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 05:44 PM |
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yep collapsible are available but 3 or 4 times the price for a set.
While your there you can give it a decoke and fit new valve guides ( something i should have done last time ) make sure you de ridge the barrells
and re lap the barrel to the heads
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 06:26 PM |
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and fit new exhaust valves !
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Secoh
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 07:00 PM |
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bah! I already have the heads off now!! grrr...
oh well...
nahh, I just want to get it through rego at this stage. While it doesnt blow smoke, the bores are glazed and pitted from sitting around, and one
cylinder needs flycutting as it's leaking compression on number 2.
funny thing is the valves are all sitting nice and proud, and no cracks anywhere!
I'm going to ignore all this for the moment though and jam it back together for rego, then do it all properly later on.
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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Secoh
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 07:02 PM |
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I gotta say, working on a baja is soooo easy!!
no tin crap, no bootlid, no engine bay seal, no jacking the car up to extract the motor....I had the motor out in 10 minutes flat. (Had to remove it
anyway to fix the shuddering clutch)
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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68AutoBug
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 posted on February 17th, 2004 at 09:17 PM |
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Aviation Jointing Goo & push rod seals..
German push rod tube seals aren't all that much better... I bought some neoprene ones from Peter Richards at Valla last year. The secret with
push rod tube seals, is the glue that You use. I use Aviation jointing goo, which is readily available from Repco-Auto one etc.. Even after the seals
crack all the way round, they won't leak if You do it properly, I put the goo on both sides of the seals...
Seals still come off easily when needed...
years later....
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on February 17th, 2004 at 11:05 PM |
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"permatex" made by loctite ppl
let sleeping dubs lie
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vw54
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 05:41 AM |
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| Quote: |
I bought some neoprene ones from Peter Richards at Valla last year
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Well Lee you purchased the CRAP ones
The seals i use dont leak and you dont have to use Permetex either.
Buy quality buy once.
[Edited on 17-2-2004 by vw54]
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tonyg
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 07:26 AM |
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use quality contact cement.. cheaper, works fine, stays rubbery, glue inner and outer.. no leaks.. got this from an aircraft engineer who did his time
on aircooled aero engines
tony g
they took me away haha, hope the medication works
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Bizarre
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 08:16 AM |
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my 2c
Clean clean clean
And put them on dry
Works for me
TTFN
Futue te ipsum!!!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on February 18th, 2004 at 08:59 AM |
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Peter Richards doesn't sell crap !!!
Peter Richards doesn't sell crap....
I have bags & bags of the cheap ones.
The neoprene were expensive and feel totally different to the cheap ones.
But, using the cheap ones with Aviation jointing goo or permatex, and they will NOT leak.... the seals crack but the glue stays put...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 09:03 AM |
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Dave started this.....
Actually, I bought some outside door handle seals for My beetle from ************* and they cracked day after I put them on... $14
for 2 doors...
I have just bought replacements from Mick Motors $2... and they are hard plastic not like the soft garbage..... I bought from
*************....
Edited by Kruizin Kombi - No need to go there, Lee 
[Edited on 18-2-2004 by KruizinKombi]
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 10:15 AM |
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Here we go again
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Secoh
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 11:29 AM |
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can someone please delete the bitchy crap from my thread? I don't care who's aligned with what shop.
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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Secoh
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 01:29 PM |
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thanks kruisin cant believe what goes on here some times. the insulated
nature of enthusiest topics I guess.
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Make it go faster!! |
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lugnuts
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 02:48 PM |
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What blue74l and vw54 said,dont need no stinkin sealer.:P |
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vw54
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| posted on February 18th, 2004 at 04:55 PM |
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Lee I didnt mention where or who i got the seals from ... U did.
I just said there are several qualities and buy the best. pretty simple.
Use the good ones and DONT use sealer at all
Buy once dont pay Twice.
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lugnuts
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 01:34 AM |
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:P |
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 02:26 AM |
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:cussing
let sleeping dubs lie
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Secoh
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 07:19 AM |
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badge-bickerers, with all due respect STFU. Thank you.
meanwhile, back at the ranch (Johnny, disguised as a door, got his knob shot off....)......
it looks like, just to complete my irritation with this project, that one pushrod tube is split, and the oil wasn't coming from the seals at all!
Might buy one collapsable tube to get it thru rego. grrr
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Make it go faster!! |
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Bizarre
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 08:09 AM |
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Just buy the screw on NOT the spring loaded type.
Best of 2 evils.
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 12:32 PM |
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i reckon it's a good excuse to get stuck into a brief upgrade.... pull the heads and use real pushrods and put better heads on
and split the case and drop in a hotter cam, set of 94's (even though we know they don't last more than 200,000 miles without a hone) and a
CW crank. or a stroker if you're so inclined. come on it's only half a day's work and a couple of weeks of wages
let sleeping dubs lie
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Secoh
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 03:30 PM |
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bah, i'll start building that oxyboxer I always wanted
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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Secoh
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| posted on February 19th, 2004 at 07:06 PM |
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i cheated...a big gob of fuel tank repair putty did the trick :thumb
It all has to be stripped down properly once it's regoed anyway...
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!! |
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oval TOFU
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| posted on January 22nd, 2006 at 10:47 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
While your there you can give it a decoke and fit new valve guides ( something i should have done last time ) make sure you de ridge the barrells
and re lap the barrel to the heads
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Can you expand on this Dave? I'm taking my heads off next week to install new pushrod tubes... Also, do you need to remove the rocker arms to take
the heads off?
[ Edited on 22-1-06 by oval TOFU ]
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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