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 bigbruvabob
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| posted on March 24th, 2004 at 07:25 PM |
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bare metal
hi dude i am in the middle of taking my bug back to bare metal, man what a job! But worth it in the end im told. So far i have found lots of little
imperfections that were puttied over and will soon start to fix these. My next door neighbour runs a panel shop and is helping me with advice and says
the process should go
- strip with paint stripper
- sand to get rid of any rust then repair
- refill and sand any imperfections
- etch prime bare metal
- hi fill
- sand then paint (2 pac).
does this sound right and how should i apply the etch primer
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on March 24th, 2004 at 11:19 PM |
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Hi Bigbruv,
Bodyfiller can only be used on rough bare metal. Use gloves too to avoid moisture from hands getting to exposed steel.
After that wax and grease the bus, except over filler(it will eat through) and etch prime>high fill>-primer.....
Email me if you need a better details mate.
Im not a spray painter but have done a few cars. Hope this helps.
Hellbus will give you expert ops..
Cheers-W
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on March 25th, 2004 at 11:28 AM |
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Come up and see my etchings....
mmm - I always etch prime then fill. The primer reduces/stops
the rust that breaks out under the filler when applied
to bare metal.....strip any previously filled car back
and check out what's happened where filler and bare
metal meet.
The etch 'etches' the metal and sticks and the filler sticks
to the etch primer with no problems...
RobK
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 vw54
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| posted on March 25th, 2004 at 05:15 PM |
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Before you start any repairs
do the paint strip first and wash off with heaps of water and flush with paint thinners, use some scoctch bright as well to gett he scum of the
surface.
wipe each section with a oil soaked rag to stop any surface rust this will hold it for a few days until you have all the paint off then you can
see what yr up against and work of the BIG repairs first the oil will wash of with a bit of thinners.
Just makes it easier to see all the repairs first and the oil will hold it to stop surface rust.
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on March 25th, 2004 at 11:59 PM |
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Hi Rob,
Good point there, it makes sence....I've always been told to do it the other way.
I wonder what Helbus's opinion is?
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on March 26th, 2004 at 05:43 PM |
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<Helbus steps up to the podium>
In all of the resto's I have been involved in have been like this.
- Bare metal (by bead blasting, sanding, paint stripper etc.)
- Clean with prepwash. Remove all final dust, rust and crud, anything that is not metal.
- Metal condition/ prep. This can be done even if a few hand marks have appeared. Commonly known as de-oxidine. Follow the instructions to the letter.
I always use gloves and steel wool to clean and condition the metal. This removes all last traces of moisture affected metal and conditions the
surface to be rust resistant and ready to accept primers.
- Spies Hecker brand 'Red-Brown Primer' This is a two part primer that is also rust resistant and really sticks to the metal, especially if you
condition it with de-oxidine.
Body fillers can be put over the top of the red-brown after sanding with 180 or 240. Think about it the filler will be sealed between a resistant
primer and the paint on top. It really lasts.
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on March 27th, 2004 at 01:02 PM |
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Thanks Helbus. Your feedback is invaluable. From now on thats what I'll do. I have'nt had any probs doing it the the other way..touch wood!
Whats the metal.prep wash called that you use? I use Ranex Rustbuster on bare metal followed by Red oxide>etch?
Cheers-W
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StenGuns
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| posted on March 27th, 2004 at 09:28 PM |
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My ten cents...
Bare Metal..>PanelBeat..>Deoxidise/Prepsol..>EtchPrime..>Fill..>RubBack(this is vital.. spend as much time as you like rubbing and
filling.. Don't be impatient.. Your time now will pay off)..HiFill..>SandBack>Check for imperfections and correct..>Cavity Wax..Two top
coats..>Light sand..>Finish Coat.. Voila!!..
six coats of paint on de-oxidised bare metal with an etchprimer in between the fill and the metal.. You will have a supurb finish for years to come..
But DO NOT take any shortcuts.. Every bit of oxidisation that you overlook now will haunt you in your sleep..
Good luck..
Rob
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splitbusaustralia
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| posted on March 28th, 2004 at 06:36 AM |
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Forget to mention that you should check a little
filler over your etch primer - some are not
'compatible' and some fillers will 'soften' or bleed
into some ecth primers. Best to use a compatible system
(I use Spartan 1k 2k since I finish in acrylic laquer...).
RobK
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on March 28th, 2004 at 11:28 AM |
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I always use a two part etch primer as it becomes totally stable. I have seen some cheap or spray can etch primers swell and even lift when top coats
are put on, because they are really meant to be used on industrial components and painted over with enamels, not acrylic laquers.
Compatability is very important.
This is why I stick to the products that a lot of restoration shops use, and that I have also had good experience with.
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bigbruvabob
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| posted on April 9th, 2004 at 03:19 PM |
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Cheers dudes , the guys i live next door to are cool and letting me use there workshop and giving me info but there pretty busy and i dont like to
bother too much. do you have to spray on the etch primer. And how smooth do you have to be as i have never sprayed before and as i am using there gear
i dont want to be in and out of there shop to often.would i be able to get that red brown primer at paint mobile
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bigbruvabob
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on April 13th, 2004 at 07:46 PM |
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etch primed
thanks guys following your advice i today got the main body of my car in etch primer. i used deran a deoxidiser with stainless steel scourer to prep
metal then totally rinsed clean with methylated spirits then three coats of protec 429 paraphos two pack primer surfacer. i am so rapped on how it
went on i now understand why bare metal paint jobs are the way to go even just in etch primer the shell has this nice even smooth lightweight look to
it. Now to fill and sand then hopefully body in hifill by the weekend. Man it is so good to see product finally going on to my bug instead of coming
off. I used the protec 429 as i could not get the spies hecker red brown primer at paint mobile. i am told that it is the same type of stuff and is
good quality australian made product. will start, to post photos as soon as i get them developed (0h for a digi cam) Once again thanks for the advice.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on April 13th, 2004 at 10:09 PM |
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Now you see the difference. Yeah.
The two pack etch is the way to go. You have done well.
Maybe get a disposable camera so you can get some shots, even if you get someone to scan them later. At least you have something to remember all the
hard work by.
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