| [ Total Views: 1377 | Total Replies: 29 | Thread Id: 25522 ] |
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 Jamox
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| posted on July 4th, 2004 at 08:34 PM |
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Kombi gearbox install -tech ideas? help?
Hey dudes and dudettes
I figure there is a massive pool of intellect and opinion waiting to be let loose on me >>>from you guys. :p
Well, I have two 3-ribs. One I bought, one courtesy of Seagull(cheers Neil).
I am goign to try and save a bit of money and fabricate my own mounting kit. i have a 2-inch lift kit already in my baja which I made myself so I
know how to weigh cost agianst time and stuffign around etc. I also have a body/pan that I can test-fit the first gearbox in whilst I can make
measurements and test fit brackets and stuff on the other. Whilst my baja stays on the road!
Question one: how many people have done this already?
Second Q is: what are peoples opinions on me trying to do it? Good with the bad here. 
And another is more of a debate. I figure that seeing as I am making my own mounts, I can put angle on the box, or lift it a bit. This would be
because I will most prolly put a Type four motor in at some stage. Would it be advisable to have a bit of angle on the box so that I don't loose as
much clearance with the engine sump? I would have ot consider the shifter angle etc. I know I would probably loose cv angle doing this. Would I be
better-off having increased cv angles "later-on" and just use a good skid-plate?
It doesn't look like it is going to be too hard at this stage. YET!! So, anythign else? ANy problems with existing kits? What is advisable; a
clamp around the whole gearbox at the front and back? Or just an adaptor plate at the front and clamp at the back? Or, or, or , or , or. I am not in
a rush becasue I can make it and then transfer it all at my leisure so i am not "off the road" for too long. I have decided to just keep Type 1
stubs at this stage and maybe upgrade later. I won't be notching spring plates or anythign yet until i do my stubs cos when i do I have a set of
Type 3 trailing arms with dual spring plates to go in as well as other stuff. For the moment, I just want 31s on the back and gearing. Power and
clearance can come a bit later.
ANY information or ideas or suggestions or anything would relaly be appreciated. I am anticipating stuffing it up the first time or having to modify
it as I go. I am also dreading being "shot down" by some people. I have the skills, I have the patience, I don't have the time(but who does) and
I CAN be bothered. SO, let me have it!
Thanks in advance (hopefully) 
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seagull
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| posted on July 4th, 2004 at 09:58 PM |
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brad had a photo here on the kombi set up :duh
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on July 4th, 2004 at 10:09 PM |
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well I bought a kit...........................do it yourself, its easy and you can have better control of the quality !
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Jamox
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| posted on July 4th, 2004 at 10:23 PM |
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Where's the photo??? I have been after a photo for a while now. Any photos would be great.
As to buying the kit; I will weigh up the options after I get a few more opinions and stuff Craig
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seagull
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| posted on July 4th, 2004 at 10:58 PM |
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motor conversions * 60 bug *:thumb
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Baja Wes
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| posted on July 5th, 2004 at 12:57 PM |
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first pics are my car;
couple set-up to step into tunnel
gearbox fitted with sharpbuilt mount kit. adapts to standard beetle front and rear mounts.
birds eye view
also some pics of another kit at http://www.customoffroad.com.au/kombibox/Kombi%20Box.htm
[Edited on 5-7-2004 by Baja Wes]
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seagull
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| posted on July 5th, 2004 at 08:54 PM |
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um how long did stay that clean WES ?:P
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Jamox
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| posted on July 5th, 2004 at 09:14 PM |
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Oh, sorry Craig! I thought you meant "do it yourself" as in buy the kit too! When I reread it now it all becoems clear! Mind you, I feel a bit
stupid but hey... I can own up to it. Thanks for your op.
Good on ya Neil, i'll see if I can find it!
WEs, thanks too mate. I have seen your pics a few times (I have thrashed the old rebuild diary pretty well , but it was good to get the last one nice and big. Hmm, I actually missed the fact that your gearbox HAD
the kit on it in the second pic. Domestic blindness at 19 isn't lookign too good. Also, I had looked at the COR site and completely missed the pics
there too(they didn't show up for some reason the first time). Bloody obvious really. What do you think of the kit? ANy improvements? Thanks
heaps.
If I had a digital camera, I would take photos. But, seeing as I don't, i will just have to let you all know how I get on. Would it be worth
drawing up my patterns and stuff with measurements and posting them somewhere? No one seems to have done it yet. Depending on how well it works I
spose. I won't gaurantee anything cos I am crap with committments.
Thanks guys, keep it coming if there is any more.
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seagull
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| posted on July 5th, 2004 at 09:22 PM |
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you can buy a 5 mpix cam for $100.00 , i can see if my mate has stock if you like , seagull O these are new not hot ect
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Baja Wes
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| posted on July 6th, 2004 at 08:19 AM |
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seagull, it didn't stay clean for long, and it didn't take long for dirt and gravel to rip alot of the paint off 
Jamox, the COR kit seems pretty sturdy. They like things strong. The only potential prob I see is not having a front mount, so the nose cone sometimes
doesn't get precisely aligned on installation which causes some people to have problems with setting up the shifter. It seems ok after the initial
set-up though.
With the sharpbuilt kit I have used, welding the 2 couplings together aligns the shifting. If you weld it right that is.
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Jamox
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| posted on July 6th, 2004 at 09:09 PM |
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Right, thanks wes. I am goign to put a front mount on as it as well cos it is the easiest bit. I have designed(not made) the rear cradle and clamp.
IT wasn't that hard, just gettign measurements and stuff. Also, it won't be hard to make the cradle. But, the clamp might be a bit diferent. I
had the thought of using chain(as in drive-chain -not bog chain cos it
will bend to shape around the bellhousing. I would weld tabs on it and use the upper engine mount-holes to keep it in place. Then to tighten it, i
was thinking using those things that have a threaded hook at each end, and the centre bit turns to tighten it up. Then I would have a locking or
pinning mechanism. THat way I don't have to stuff around with threaded rod and nuts and stuff, and the angles should work themselves out using the
chain. Should make it way easier too.
Anyone see any problems with this? I will probably try and do somehtign similar with the front clamp, but I am not too sure how well it will bend
around the frame horns, or how to make the cradle so that it doesn't stick out too far and interfere with my trailing arms. Also, havign doen an IRS
conversion already, I still have that annoying bit of flat steel stickign out of my horns on the outsides, I also think my handbrake cables might get
in the way a bit too. SO I am not sure. DO I need three mountign points/ As in the front plate and two clamps? Or fornt and rear enough? I would
liek to overkill than be killed.
SO yeh, that is where I am at. Front and rear are easy, middle I still need to look at and think about a bit more.
THanks guys
Seeyabye
Jamie
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Boozer
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| posted on July 7th, 2004 at 12:33 PM |
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sharpbuilt doesn't seem to have the kit on their website, do they still do it?
THe MC Bat Commander's motto: "Never do now, what you could do for 24 hours straight, all night, the night before."
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pete wood
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| posted on July 9th, 2004 at 09:36 AM |
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Buy the Custom off road one man
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ducky
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| posted on July 12th, 2004 at 08:45 PM |
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talk to kurt and gunter they have kombi gearbox in new green beast they can be found at Volksmod on the Gold Coast
Baby Loves to Mumbo
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type82e
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| posted on July 13th, 2004 at 07:50 AM |
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check this out its custom off road in brisbane one of our sponsers
http://www.customoffroad.com.au/kombibox/Kombi%20Box.htm
marcel
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 12:51 PM |
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Allright.
Long time no post. Well, i have finally got back around to doing this thing.
I had a few breakthroughs. I had been going about my rear cradle all wrong so I scrapped it and made a better one. It is pretty similar to Wes's
kit by the look of it. It will be a nice soft one too hopefully.
The rear cradle is finished and the front mount also. I decided on usng some drive chain as a clamp around the bellhousing rim. It works a treat.
It pulls the gearbox down onto the rubber that is underneath it until the holes line up for the gearbox and engine bolts; so it is nice and firm.
Easy to replace if I need to and the best bit is that it is hinged all along so it fits the bellhousing shape perfectly.
Right. The next stage was my type 1 axles. i took them into the engineerign place and the guy ran a file over them and said they were too hard for
him to lathe. He suggested bench grinding them so i got on his bench grinder and went for my life. Easy as pie. I found when I got home that htey
were soft after all; so I finished and neatened them with a file. They fit the kombi cvs perfectly and have a niced rounded shoulder. Does anyone
see any problems with doign it this way??? Stress? I have spare axles if someone says I have stuffed up> They will make good Tractor draw-bar pins
I asked in the post below about the kombi brake cylinders too???
I also have a type 3 rear assemly to go in. I am going to do it now so it is done with. I will modify the shock cups before I put it in as well.
Hopefully everything works AOK! Should see before x-mas.
I mostly hope the gearbox kit works cos it wasn't that hard and saved me $300 or whatever they are.
Any suggestions would be great guys.
Thanks
Jamie
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 12:57 PM |
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Oh, forgot to ask. At the moment, I will be running kombi cvs at the box and type 1s at the hbs. I do intend to swap my stubbs at some stage so that
I can run type 2 cvs at the hubs aas well.
When I do this, I should be able to notch my spring plates right?
Well, cos my dual spring plate type 3 suspension has yet to go in, do I notch them no and just run them normally so i don't have to do it later? ANy
opinions? How mych to notch? To notch or not to notch? THe big question.
Thanks again
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ratty 63
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:01 PM |
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...just dropping this post in here as I need to watch this thread (going to do the same conversion very soon and I need ideas).
R
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Anthiron
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:12 PM |
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yes very interesting keep it coming as ive got the get my 6 rib box in when i put the 2 litre type 4 in my baja. prolly pay COR to do it though.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:17 PM |
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"Pay" is my least favourite word unless someone is doign it to me.
I like the challenge, plus it makes me look better when all my mates get other people to do the work on their big landcruieser utes. heh heh.
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Anthiron
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:20 PM |
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yes but i dont have the skills and it would be a first time for me doing somehing like this.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:27 PM |
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First time for everything. As far as skills go, all you really need are the tools and someone to ask advice from(and instructions). I just read a
lot and emailed and asked people. You don't need that many tools even. I mena, I just took anythign i needed to to the local engineering place.
That was only for plasma cutting and stuff. All I really used for making the kit was an angle grinder and welder and drill. It does help to have
stuff lying around to use which depends on your situation. I only did automotive workshop at school so that is as far as my skills go. Enthusiasm
helps too, and is what makes things happen.
i could probably trace all my parts so that someone else could replicate my kit if it works?? It would make a good Manx mania article except I don't
have a camera. Sketches do?
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MikeM
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jamox
I mostly hope the gearbox kit works cos it wasn't that hard and saved me $300 or whatever they are.
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Yeah but how much did it cost you to make it. Considering the cost involved of scrapping your prototype it would have cost you a fair bit I'd
imagine. The cost of steel these days adds up quick.
I thought about making my own, had a look at a COR one, decided it was all to hard and bought one. They are quite a complex shape, and the COR one
uses stock rubbers so it's easy to replace rubbers etc. I did however have to fix some quality issues with the COR mount, it had some dodgy welds and
was out of alignment. Easier to fix then start from scratch. COR did have some issues with the quailty of the workers work.
COR has changed hands since then and I know the quality of work has gone up so shouldn't be a problem now.
[Edited on 7-12-2004 by MikeM]
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Jamox
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 01:38 PM |
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Cost me nothing. The first proptotype wasn't that far ahead when I decided to stop. Basically, it was a bit of steel plate around 4-5mm thick that
would have only been around 300 x 200mm MAX. I had just cut it and welded it tot he right shape. The main cost would have been just getting
measurements for it. It took me ages. When I swapped to the design that uses the stock cradle, I had it doen in a few hours. I was kicking myself
cos it turned out to be so easy. In the end, I could have made it out of offcuts from my local engineerign place. A fair bit of it was. The chain
was worn stuff that was no good for driving but good for making, and I scrounged up some thick bits of rubber. I used a fair few "old" vw bits that
were stuffed for their intended purpose, but perfect for mine! I will do the tracings so that you can see how easy it is.
My welding is as good as anyones just from practice so I absolutely trust it.
Its good to have different opinions though too; they are what helped me at the start. I am glad of it.
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 02:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by MikeM
I did however have to fix some quality issues with the COR mount, it had some dodgy welds and was out of alignment. Easier to fix then start from
scratch. George used to have some issues qith the quailty of his worksers work.
COR has changed hands since then and I know the quality of work has gone up so shouldn't be a problem now.
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This was the problem I had with mine, I'm sure the NEW owners have fixed this issue
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 02:03 PM |
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So where are all your pictures Craig??
tssnq.com.au
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Brad
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 09:43 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Interesting thread... The quality issues mentioned in relation to the COR kits have now been fixed and related to a batch that were done many years
ago. The issues was with the "look of weld" and there was no structual or safety issues.
In relation to Jamox.
Axles - I don't think grinding the axles back is a good idea and it will weaken them due to the heat.
Kombi kit - great to see you giving it a go, if you have used a chain for your strap then get a length of hose or rubber from an inner tube and wrap
it around the chain. This is to stop the vibrations from the box going through the car. You need to rubber mount the transmission or it will be a pig
to drive. I use to use chain as the rear strap on some bussies. Use a 10mm bolt and it pulls down nice and tights, works a treat. Will wear into the
bell housing after a while though.
Out of interest the COR kit is undergoing few modifications at the moment and the new one should be easier to fit.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 10:06 PM |
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It's like the saying "the problems somewhere between the keyboard and the chair", expect here I guess it is "the problems somewhere between the
spanner and the workboots".
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MUD BASHING ANYONE ??
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| posted on December 7th, 2004 at 10:13 PM |
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I just bought one of brads kits and the welds seem fine and its going together well even with my lack of brain power
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
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Jamox
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| posted on December 8th, 2004 at 01:40 PM |
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Thanks for that guys.
Hmmm. About the heat Brad; it was a very slow grind. I turned the axle constantly and only took off a smidge at a time. They are also quite thick so
the heat should have disipated fairly well rather than just getting hotter. Also, they were hardly even hot to touch -probably no more than if it
had just been lathed. So, I think becasue I am quite certain they didn't get hot, I will still use them. But thanks a lot cos I had not really
thought about the heat aspect. I will test them out here on the farm for a bit before I go on any roads, just in case they give straight away. But
my dad also thinks it shouldn't be a problem (ha ha whether that counts for anything )
Yeh, also with the chain, it attaches to my rear cradle mounts which are themselves mounted on rubber, so the vibration should be taken out fairly
well. I was going to have the chain itself seated on a astrip of rubber so that it doesn't wear into the bellhousing. I hadn't thought of hose, I
will see which one feels best.
THanks again, I am off to keep going. Gearbox and motor out, trailing arms almost off too.
Oh and Wes, so the problem is like "spanner with the spanner, turning the nut" or "nut turning the nut, with the spanner"?? Me being the middle
man in both cases???
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