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Author: Subject: How-to: Inlet manifold match porting
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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 07:47 PM
How-to: Inlet manifold match porting


This is not necessarily a comprehensive how to article, but more just a bit of a guide for a fairly simple process.

First up either make a gasket to fit on the head from scratch out of cardboard or gasket material (required if you have ported heads or street eliminators or the like that require gaskets that aren't off the shelf). If this is required trim the card to the exact shape of the inlet port.

In my case I used a standard type IV inlet manifold - it was slightly oversize in comparison the ports which was taken into consideration when match porting.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 07:52 PM


Next up place the gasket on the manifold ensuring you line up the bolt holes to check if you need to port or not!

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 07:53 PM


I marked around the ports with black marker (engineers dye could be used but didn't have any - this sufficed).

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 07:56 PM


Holding the gasket firmly in place, scribe around the inside - a proper scribe will help here...not a corner of a screwdriver or similar.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 07:58 PM


Here we are ready to go...

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 08:01 PM


Using a tungsten carbide cutting bit in a die grinder enables you to take off material quite quickly (so go slowly!). I found some WD40/RP7 helped to stop the aluminium clogging up the cutting bit. I found a bit with rounded end helped to avoid cutting in any steps/edges into the manifolds.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 08:03 PM


I then used a sanding flap wheel to tidy up the harsh scratches left from the cutting bit - this one was 120 grit.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 08:05 PM


Ports were now done, I decided to ensure the manifold base was not warped. First off mark the base with dye or marker pen.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 08:09 PM


Find a perfectly flat piece of glass (not all glass is perfectly straight by the way). If you ever see a scrapped photocopier - its glass is perfect! Then using sandpaper (I started with 240, then used some 400 to smooth out any scratches) steadily rub the manifold across the surface until the dye/marker is gone (but don't go too nuts and take too much material off).

Even though these manifolds were new, I thought I'd check. Used manifolds subject to heat and overzealous manifold nut tightening would benefit greatly from this process.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 08:10 PM


There ya go....nice and flat.

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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 09:02 PM


excellent stuff

thanks :kiss




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posted on August 8th, 2004 at 09:39 PM


might do this to the 2L when i have it apart to fix the oil leaks



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posted on March 7th, 2005 at 10:26 AM


Well explained and interesting , cheers

Dan;)




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posted on October 27th, 2005 at 09:50 PM


just bringing the thread back out of the archives.



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posted on October 27th, 2005 at 10:43 PM


So the manifolds have now been matched to the gasket, but what about the head, did you also open up the ports?



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posted on October 28th, 2005 at 08:44 AM


Yep, sorry didn't have those photos because I didn't do the head work myself - that was outsourced so I didn't screw it up.



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posted on February 18th, 2007 at 12:07 PM



how far up inside the manifold did you go ? it only looks about an inch ,is that about right?



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posted on March 18th, 2007 at 07:43 PM



Because the amount of material I needed to take was relatively minimal, I only blended the manifold ports up to around 1-1.5 inches. If more porting was required on the manifolds, you would probably have to blend them higher up. For extreme applications, I've seen guys have to cut the manifolds in half to do the porting, then have them rewelded.



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posted on September 14th, 2010 at 11:19 PM



Thanks, great easy to follow directions. Will definitely follow this when I rebuild my 1800 and make my 1916.



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