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 ratty 63
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| posted on May 23rd, 2005 at 08:49 AM |
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Hi Glenn,
I've been concentrating on getting the rest of the car completed so that I can drive it and complete the tuning stage of the install.
My test engine is still in running condition (although still removed from the car so that the Kombi gearbox install can be completed) - should have it
re-installed and running later this week (perhaps even later today if I can drag myself away from this computer! )
I have been looking at changing the spark distribution from a dissy to a crank fire (coilpack) style system so that I can fit my Air Conditioning
Compressor as close as possible to the crank pully - ie: right where the dissy is currently located.... I have all the info to do the conversion, but
I am having trouble finding the plugs to connect it (the only vehicle in Australia that they use this coil on is the last-of-the-line Lada Nivas
:duh). I am looking for someone in the US that can sell me these plugs as they were used on dozens of cars over there....
I have also been keeping an ear to the ground on the Kalmaker forum and have picked up a number of useful tuning tips from others mistakes! This
should make things easier when I get to this stage.
Thats about where it stands at the moment...I just wish I could make everything happen faster but it would appear that those that are employed to
assist (by rebuilding or supplying parts) have decided that due to the fact that this project has been in progress for years now, it's not going to
matter if they take 6 months or more to do what they have been asked to do :bounce
I have just changed to a different parts supplier (for my VW parts), but it now requires me to drive to Brisbane to pick them up.....
Hopefully I will have more to report in a couple of weeks....
R 
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tassupervee
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| posted on May 23rd, 2005 at 06:02 PM |
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Ratty
Try Petroject.
They may be able to help you with plugs.
Are you committed to using these particular coil paks?
If not just use some Bosch Commodore V6 coils and some Bosch 008 triggers.
All nice and common and cheap!
L8tr
E
[Edited on 23/5/05 by tassupervee]
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Jeza
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| posted on May 23rd, 2005 at 07:00 PM |
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Ratty
Its good to see that your project is still moving along, all be it slowly- mine is in a similar boat.
I have just managed to aquire the last piece (I think?) for my EFI conversion- the Mexi Beetle alternator stand- I was going to modify a stock one but
then realised how much modification it required, and figured for the money the factory part would be better and less prone to cracking / leaking!
So I'm now on the hunt for suggestions / info regarding MAP type tables (VE tables?) to get me started up and possibly running roughly? It would be
nice to do this myself but I get the feeling I might be better getting the car to the dyno to tune it.
The ECU is a Haltech F9, so a basic fuel only ECU with no oxy sensor- although I bought the Jaycar LED kit and have an oxy sensor off a legacy to play
with. The current engine is a stock (well used) 1600 tp. I've got a much fresher one sitting in reserve but I'm a little worried about using that
in case I lean it out badly and toast something!
Any comments would be greatfully recieved.... except the ones about fitting an EJ motor- already given that some serious thought- and its not what I
want at the mo
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 24th, 2005 at 12:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ratty 63
or the return from the fuel rail is returned into the low pressure side of the fuel pump. Apparently this is becomming very popular with the hotrod
folks as it saves them fitting return lines and fitting to the tanks (makes sense to me!:thumb)
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Maybe it would work for the hot-rod guys as most of them don't run their engines for more than 10 mins
The problem there is that the fuel rail in your normal set-up gets quite hot. This in-turn heats up the fuel in the rail, and if you return it
straight to the pump suction you simply recycle hot fuel around the fuel rail, which gets hotter and hotter...
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That's why many EFI systems such as what is used on Holdens are now returnless - there is no endless recirculation of fuel through a hot engine bay,
so the fuel in the tank stays cold... and the 'hot' fuel in the rail is easier to digest into a cold intake charge (most cars have plastic manifold
these days - don't heat up the intake charge as much) for better emissions and performance. Top idea when you think about it...
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Hey Tassie, did you talk to your mate at Holden yet about he Gen III returnless fuel supply? 
Pay your debts, CxxT
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tassupervee
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| posted on May 24th, 2005 at 06:42 PM |
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Yes
He find the whole topic quite amusing.
l8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on May 24th, 2005 at 07:35 PM |
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Whatever you think dude.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
A.k.a.: Rossco
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 10:59 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tassupervee
Ratty
Try Petroject.
They may be able to help you with plugs.
Are you committed to using these particular coil paks?
If not just use some Bosch Commodore V6 coils and some Bosch 008 triggers.
All nice and common and cheap!
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Thanks tassupervee, I'll go and talk to Petroject...
I am committed to use these coil packs and controllers as the Delco 808 ECU (the one I am using) does not know/control which plug fires - all it
recieves - as far as spark timing is concerned - is a reference pulse from the Crank Angle sensor. The ECU then does a calculation to know when to
fire the coil and times down until this event occurs. At this time, the ECU sends a signal to the coil unit to fire. This is all fine if you are
running a Dissy as the rotor button controls which plug fires, but when you go to a distributorless system how does it decide which plug to fire?
To fix this problem, GM made their coilpacks 'intelligent' - the coilpack controller (a circuit board in the base plate, under the coils) actually
recieves a number of pulses per crank rotation. From this sequence of pulses it knows where the crank is in relation to number of degrees of
rotation. It does not know which of the two cylinders connected to a particular coil is in the compression position - but this is not important as it
is going to fire both plugs anyway.
So, in short, the coil pack decides which of the two coils to fire, then sends a reference pulse to the ECU to start the 'countdown' to ignition.
Because of this method of coil selection I am restricted to use the GM style coil pack controller, which is the same unit as the last shipment of Lada
Nivas, the Chev Cavalier, the Buick Skyhawk, the Pontiac Tempest, etc, which all use the Delco 808 ECU.
The Commodore coil controller is not suited due to the fact that it is designed to be used on a 6 cylinder so the crank pulses are different to the 4
cylinder units. However, the coils are exactly the same. Of course, the plugs on the Commodore coil packs are different to the coil pack that I must
use.... couldn't be that easy could it! One of the plugs that I need (three pin) is available off the shelf from Global Auto Spares, the six pin
plug is fitted to the '92 - '96 Jackaroo coil pack, so all I need is a wreckers willing to just sell the plug/loom from a wrecked vehicle (not as
easy to find as you might think - most want to keep the loom with the engine! :duh. The two pin plug is the hard one to find - no GM vehicle in
Australia was fitted with it (except the Niva) so no-one that I can find carries it, and the chances of finding one in a wreckers is.....
Thanks for the tip on the Bosch 008 sensors - I'll have a closer look at them.
R
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ratty 63
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 11:16 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
Ratty
Its good to see that your project is still moving along, all be it slowly- mine is in a similar boat.
I have just managed to aquire the last piece (I think?) for my EFI conversion- the Mexi Beetle alternator stand- I was going to modify a stock one but
then realised how much modification it required, and figured for the money the factory part would be better and less prone to cracking / leaking!
So I'm now on the hunt for suggestions / info regarding MAP type tables (VE tables?) to get me started up and possibly running roughly? It would be
nice to do this myself but I get the feeling I might be better getting the car to the dyno to tune it.
The ECU is a Haltech F9, so a basic fuel only ECU with no oxy sensor- although I bought the Jaycar LED kit and have an oxy sensor off a legacy to play
with. The current engine is a stock (well used) 1600 tp. I've got a much fresher one sitting in reserve but I'm a little worried about using that
in case I lean it out badly and toast something!
Any comments would be greatfully recieved.... except the ones about fitting an EJ motor- already given that some serious thought- and its not what I
want at the mo
Cheers
Jeremy
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Hi Jeremy,
Good to hear that your car is still coming along - so much to do!
Yeah, your right - sometimes, although it may be possible to modify something to work, it is easier to just purchase the genuine article and save
yourself from possible problems in the future....
I understand your concern in regards to causing engine damage due to incorrect mixtures - an EFI 'expert' (worked in an EFI workshop) told me to set
everthing to maximum rich then reduce the values to get them right - in this way it reduces the risk of 'toasting something'...of course I didn't
do it this way - I just loaded the factory VE table for the JE Camira and attempted a start...if everything had been working OK mechanically this
would have worked, however due to the prevoiusly listed mechanical failures the engine ran super lean (exhaust pipes glowing red is not a good sign).
The engine did survive and is still running strong - the Air cooled VW engines are tough!
Perhaps you could try the suggested method to get your car to run first - I'm not familiar with the Haltec F9 - is it a computer tune (laptop) ECU?
If so, perhaps someone may have a file of their VE table that they could send to you by email....? I can do this for anyone planning on using the
Kalmaker/Delco system, but I doubt that the Haltec would be compatible with the Delco info....
Keep us up to date with how you are going with your system.
R
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 11:30 AM |
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| Quote: | Hey Tassie, did you
talk to your mate at Holden yet about he Gen III returnless fuel supply?
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Hi
The non return system basically works like this, the presuure relief is in the tank, excess fuel returns straight back to the tank from the the tank
mounted pump, so fuel is stored in the rail at the correct pressure all the time, its being constantly used, so heat would not build up as it would
flowing through a rail and returning to the tank.
Someone else might have said this but I couldnt find it in the thread.
Steve
Steve
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Jeza
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 12:12 PM |
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Thanks Ratty
I figured I would try to track down a screen shot of a VE table for the closest motor and load the figures into the Haltech ECU. I've got a number
of tables off Shoptalkforums (before it started acting up again), but most of these are guys planning to turbo their 1916's. For now I'll be happy
to get the car road worthy with a 1600 EFI motor... then I'll worry about making it go quicker.
The haltech is laptop programmable.
The super rich suggestion is one way to go about it I guess I wonder if
it might struggle to start though from being flooded with so much fuel?
The coil pack you are trying to track down- will this give you "wasted spark", as it is firing 2 plugs at once? That could be quite a distinctive
sound your car is going to make.
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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ratty 63
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 12:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
Thanks Ratty
I figured I would try to track down a screen shot of a VE table for the closest motor and load the figures into the Haltech ECU. I've got a number
of tables off Shoptalkforums (before it started acting up again), but most of these are guys planning to turbo their 1916's. For now I'll be happy
to get the car road worthy with a 1600 EFI motor... then I'll worry about making it go quicker.
The haltech is laptop programmable.
The super rich suggestion is one way to go about it I guess I wonder if
it might struggle to start though from being flooded with so much fuel?
The coil pack you are trying to track down- will this give you "wasted spark", as it is firing 2 plugs at once? That could be quite a distinctive
sound your car is going to make.
Cheers
Jeremy
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I just tried to take a screen shot of my VE table, however it refuses to work - sorry - not sure that it would have been much use to you anyway....
hmmm I've just had another thought....OK, theres more than one way to skin a cat - still not sure that it will be much use to you....I'll attach it
at the bottom of this post
If you start with it set to full rich and you find that it floods, reduce your settings and try again - it's a fiddly way to do it, but in the
absence of a better way....
I actually have a supplier of the coil packs here on the coast - funny story actually, he was browsing an on-line parts list when he noticed that
these coil packs were listed as a Daewoo part, so considering we have Daewoos here in Aust., he ordered a batch so that he would be able to supply
them .... it is true, they are listed by GM as a Daewoo part, but unfortunatly no-one knows which Daewoo - not even Daewoo themselves know which car!
:duh - so the eager supplier is now stuck with a batch of these coil packs that don't suit anything in Oz! As a consequence, he is getting rid of
them cheap...but without plugs 
True, it fires two plugs at once - the plug in the cylinder on compression and the plug in its companion cylinder, which is on its exhaust stroke.
This is how many production vehicles are now set-up - as for it sounding different...only if I fire the wrong two plugs! :duh
I'll post a pic of the coil pack as soon as I have a pic of it!
R
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ratty 63
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 01:09 PM |
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....If you think that this may be of some use, just let me know and I will email you the full sized (uncompressed ) pic....
Of course, my engine has not had any 'under load' time as the car still isn't finished so it is not likely to be 100% accurate...but it's a
start.
I have just found a pic of the coilpack that I will be using. Those of you familiar with the coilpacks from the Commodores will recognise the coils
used with this pack - they are the same ones. You may also be able to see the 3 connectors along the bottom of the controller plate, the problem
connector is the one on the left.
R
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VWCOOL
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 05:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
| Quote: | Hey Tassie, did you
talk to your mate at Holden yet about he Gen III returnless fuel supply?
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Hi
The non return system basically works like this, the presuure relief is in the tank, excess fuel returns straight back to the tank from the the tank
mounted pump, so fuel is stored in the rail at the correct pressure all the time, its being constantly used, so heat would not build up as it would
flowing through a rail and returning to the tank.
Someone else might have said this but I couldnt find it in the thread.
Steve
Steve
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Yep, that's basically it. No recirculation of fuel means it doesn't get gradually heated up by a hot engine bay and try and escape from the fuel
tank as vapour, or cause drivabaility problems (stumbles, vapour lock etc) But wait, there's more... the fuel IN the fuel rail DOES get heated so
it's actually more easily digested by the engine at part throttle. Win-win! Many new cars (eg recent Holden Commodore) us this style of fuel system
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Jeza
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| posted on May 25th, 2005 at 07:24 PM |
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Ratty
Thanks for the graph... I'm not sure I could extract figures from that, even at a high res- those 3D graphs are tricky blighters!
I guess even a table version of your VE is quite tricky as it also includes the ignition. Or does the Kalmaker software do a MAP vs revs and a
separate ignition (advance) vs MAP and combine the two tables itself?
Anyway I'm still a wee way off as I actually have to bolt the parts onto the engine which, figures crossed. will go smoothly. Sensor fitment and
wiring I suspect may be slightly trickier.
The method of slowly winding the fuel map down until it runs might get me started, especially if I compare things to some of the example tables I've
got.
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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ratty 63
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| posted on May 28th, 2005 at 05:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
Ratty
Thanks for the graph... I'm not sure I could extract figures from that, even at a high res- those 3D graphs are tricky blighters!
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Yeah - I thought that it would be a little hard to read - I can do a series of 2D graphs too, they would definatly be easier to read...I'll post a
couple so that you can see what I mean.
| Quote: |
I guess even a table version of your VE is quite tricky as it also includes the ignition. Or does the Kalmaker software do a MAP vs revs and a
separate ignition (advance) vs MAP and combine the two tables itself?
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Kalmaker uses two seperate maps, one for fuel (VE) and one for spark - the ECU combines them. It makes the system very flexible!
| Quote: | Anyway I'm still a
wee way off as I actually have to bolt the parts onto the engine which, figures crossed. will go smoothly. Sensor fitment and wiring I suspect may be
slightly trickier.
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Yeah, this section takes a bit of time - I spent a fair bit of time looking through service manuals for other models of cars, checking to see where
they fit the sensors. I'm not sure which sensors you have on your system but mine are:
TPS: Part of the Throttle Body
Idle Air Controller: Part of the Throttle Body
Intake Air Temp sensor: mounted in the manifold, just below the Throttle Body - most manufacturers fit this sensor closer to the head, however I felt
that the air temp is not going to change all that much between the TB and the head.
Engine Temp sensor: After much debate I fitted a head temp sender from a factory Type III and Type IV EFI system. It screws into the hole in the
head beside the intake manifold
Heated O2 Sensor: In exhaust, just before the 3 bolt flange.
Crank Angle sensor: Part of the Dissy
MAP sensor: bolted to firewall and connected with a length of vac hose.
...just take it one wire at a time until everything is connected and then test the whole lot again with a multimeter before connecting the ECU. Make
certain that any earth wires are connected to secure locations too.
| Quote: | The method of
slowly winding the fuel map down until it runs might get me started, especially if I compare things to some of the example tables I've got.
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Yeah, I agree - probably the best way to do it in this situation. Always better too rich than too lean.
I can't wait to see how it goes...don't forget the pics - its always more fun for the rest of us when you show the pics of your hard work!
R
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ratty 63
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| posted on July 12th, 2005 at 11:04 AM |
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...er...fellas....I don't want to be yelled at, or appear to be taking sides in regards to the 'returnless' fuel systems, but:
A friend of mine has just purchased a VX Commodore - its a bog stock V6 (at the moment ). I had a quick look under the bonnet - particularly at the fuel line situation. It is quite difficult to see where the
fuel lines go as the V6 has what appears to be a cover over the top of the manifold, however there was definalty TWO fuel lines running from the
firewall to under the cover....as I just said, I couldn't see what they connected to under the cover, but it does look like they have a return fuel
line at the engine end.....
R
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OvalGlen
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 11:40 AM |
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may be just the v8 one at this stage.....possibility.
Thanks again Ratty , your project is an inspiration.
Regards,Glenn>
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 11:46 AM |
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yeah, the V6 had a return line. The Gen III has always been one-way... now the new 'alloytech' V6 is too
Pay your debts, CxxT
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ratty 63
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 11:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by OvalGlen
may be just the v8 one at this stage.....possibility.
Thanks again Ratty , your project is an inspiration.
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....oops, didn't think that it might just be the V8....I'm off to have a look - I'll take my camera too (this time!)
Thanks for the kind words OvalGlen, I just wish I could get the rest of the car finished so that I could drive it....
...who knows, maybe soon....
R
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OvalGlen
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| posted on October 30th, 2005 at 08:34 PM |
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Now it appears to me that Ratty 63 is in the
Gold Coast VW club, Now this Fine bunch of
enthusiasts might see the Huge benefit of
assisting this gentleman to get his car to
a road registerable state : - which would
of course be of benefit to all VW modifiers
in Australia (so we could see the Culmination of this EFI project):thumb
How about it guys / girls ?
Very worthwhile project.
(if no joy there, any chance youd move near Sydney?)
Regards,Glenn>
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ratty 63
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| posted on November 1st, 2005 at 11:53 PM |
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...thanks for that Glenn - it seams that the harder I try to get things done around here, the less that actually happens! Been beating my head
against a wall - just to get parts again (two weeks ago: Yeah, I've got them somewhere...I'll have a look for you when I remember and see
what I can find Yesterday: what parts did you need? Did you ask me for those before? I can't remember that....? :bounce
On the positive side, my Brother is in the middle of rebuilding his Baja (again, again!), and this time it will be running the same EFI setup as I
have been 'playing' with. His Baja is powered by a 2.1 litre Type IV, which he fitted the factory EFI (from a Bay window Kombi), however, whilst it
was far more fuel efficient, and much more driveable, there were a large number of small problems (does that make sense?:duh) - the major one being
the warm-up cycle... After months of fiddling with the factory system, it was decided that it was just not going to do the job....
I'm not certain that the engine will still be a 2.1 litre (there are rumors of it growing in capacity), but this shouldn't be a challenge for the
Delco... He is actually going to borrow my ECU to get his car on the road, but has collected all his own EFI parts from Kombi's and Camira's. I
have been put on notice that I will be required to tune it for him... I am looking forward to experimenting with his engine so that when (if ) my car is finished I will have a better idea of what I am doing with my
engine!
Whilst it won't be the completion of my project, at least it will be an Air Cooled VW engine that will be connected to my Delco ECU, and as this
engine was connected to a Factory EFI system, it should be a good comparason between the factory and aftermarket systems.
I'll let you know how it goes as it happens....
R
(I actually did consider moving to Sydney not-so-long-ago...and although not high on the agenda, it may still happen (the IT industry in Queensland
(particularly on the Gold Coast) is ...er...not so healthy!)
[ Edited on 1-11-2005 by ratty 63 ]
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ratty 63
A.k.a.: Rossco
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| posted on December 6th, 2005 at 09:29 AM |
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Hi all,
Just thought I would let you know that we (my Brother and I) are in the middle of converting his 2.1 litre Type IV (in his Baja) to EFI using the
Delco/Kalmaker set-up...I am updating my Website with the progres reports - hope to have it running by the end of the week...perhaps even drivable.
The car has undergone a complete rebuild, including a conversion to IRS, so everything has been removed, modified/rebuilt/replaced and re-installed.
I am only responsible for the EFI part of the rebuild, but Dave has a stack of other things to get done before the car can be driven.... he is,
however, planning on leaving for Frazer Island on Christmas Day, so it has to be driveable soon!
I'll try to keep you all up to date....
R
[ Edited on 5-12-2005 by ratty 63 ]
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humpty
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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| posted on December 28th, 2005 at 10:20 PM |
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'MEGASQUIRT'????
Not sure if this is the right place...
But has anyone had a look at the 'MEGASQUIRT' EFI kits available in the US?
http://www.msefi.com/
It seems the early versions were fuel only, but could be upgraded using either locked 009/hall effect dizzy or EDIS crankfire ignition gear that is
commonly found on Ford products and such... There is now new version that has some of the needed ignition outputs built in....
This stuff intrigues me no end, as Im in the market for a solid EFI set-up for my 2276 Turbo/intercooled project.... But what is currently available
here in Oz is costly or seems to present no end of hassles and expense to set up...
So what up with 'MEGASQUIRT'? Anyone here in Oz had a shot at it?
[ Edited on 28-12-2005 by humpty ]
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ratty 63
A.k.a.: Rossco
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| posted on December 29th, 2005 at 11:30 AM |
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Hi all,
Just posted a monster post about my latest EFI project - the result has been good so far, but fingers are still crossed!
Have a look here if you are interested: http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=47378
Humpty, I have looked at the MegaSquirt systems in the past, but not recently. Does it allow the use of an Oxygen Sensor and can it self tune? This
is the reason I went for the Delco. There are other brands around that also include these features, but look around and ask heaps of questions before
you buy.
R
[ Edited on 29-12-2005 by ratty 63 ]
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humpty
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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| posted on December 29th, 2005 at 08:10 PM |
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Hey Ratty...I have been following your posts for a good while now...
to anwser you questions....
Yes it does use an O2 sensor and no its not closed loop...As far as I can tell...
But then few aftermarket systems are.
Still looking into the whole shebang...
There seems to be a lot of infor out there about the system and loads of positive feedback about them too.
Just have to sort the wheat from the charf...
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GeorgeL
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 07:27 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ratty 63
Humpty, I have looked at the MegaSquirt systems in the past, but not recently. Does it allow the use of an Oxygen Sensor and can it self tune?
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Self-tuning is quite a difficult thing in an aftermarket ECU. They are designed to support a wide range of engines, coniditons, and fuels, so they
would have a heck of a time even finding "ballpark" settings from which to start.
One aftermarket ECU that can (but doesn't have to) run in closed loop is the Canadian SDS unit:
http://www.sdsefi.com.
It gives you the option of allowing the engine to run in closed loop mode when the operating parameters are within the values you set. Outside those
parameters, the ECU operates in open loop mode, just like factory ECUs do. You still have to program the ECU for your engine, though.
I like this particular unit because it does not need a computer for programming. You do it all from a small handheld unit that comes with the ECU.
No OBD-II interface to deal with, just a simple display that shows operating parameters and programmed values on a little LCD display.
Another nice thing is that they have complete manuals for their products on their site, so you can see what you are getting into!
George
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Judsons4eva
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on January 26th, 2007 at 06:45 PM |
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I used a Gotech ECU from South Africa. Works well closed loop and narrow or wide band O2 sensor. Good support and less than $500 with wiring harness
and map sensor. Does spark and fuel. MAP or TPS or mix and can handle turbo. http://www.gotech.co.za
Take look at some pics http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=55197&page=1#pid566932 or http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/Judsons4eva/spyder/
Ken
[ Edited on 26-1-2007 by Judsons4eva ]
550 Porsche Spyder
56 Oval mit Judson
96 Porsche 993 C2
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Ricks56
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| posted on May 30th, 2007 at 09:36 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ratty 63
Humpty, I have looked at the MegaSquirt systems in the past, but not recently. Does it allow the use of an Oxygen Sensor and can it self tune?
R
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Yes, and yes.
MS can use a narowband plugged straight in, or a wide band with a controller.
The MegaTune software has an Autotune feature, with the laptop plugged in, or the Data Logging pakage can analyse you tables from the logs.
Megasquirt II has Automatic Mixture Control, with a wide band sensor, and 12x12 AFR Target tables. (Or two tables, with two sensors.)
The software for MS/MSII is free, open source, and worth taking a look at.
Rick
1970 914
Fed & Fired by MSII/EDIS/GSXR TB's/LC-1
1956 VW Beetle Looks like a dog, purrs like a kitten!
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Newt
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| posted on January 21st, 2009 at 12:11 AM |
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Hi guys,
There is an Ausy company that makes a heated O2 unit/controller that is compatable with Megasquirt. I jhave there name somewhere.
With the single fuel line, would the same effect be achieved if you had the fuel pressure regulator just after the pump by the fuel tank which
siphoned excess presure back to the tank ie only a short return?
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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Newt
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on January 21st, 2009 at 08:42 AM |
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Hi Guys - extract of my email to Tech Edge
http://techedge.com.au http://WBo2.com
> I guess im asking
> - Is this unit compatible with Megasquirt
Yes, We were the first low cost unit that Megasquirt people used.
> - Does the unit need calibrating (using diferent gases etc).
No, it is a Lambda controller that works with many different fuels.
Note that:
AFR(x) = Lambda(x) * AFR(stoich)
where AFR(stoich) = AFR at stoich for the fuel used
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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