| [ Total Views: 1181 | Total Replies: 16 | Thread Id: 2755 ] |
|
|
 bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 1st, 2003 at 10:51 PM |
|
|
Nasty kombi engine noise - HELP!!!
I have a horrible fear I may have broken my kombi, and I'm hoping for a pat on the head for reassurance, or a bit of a guide to what it might
be.
Over the last week, my 74 kombi's oil light has been coming on intermittently. It's done it during about 5 trips, and the light often goes
out when I gear down to third in preparation to stop. Often it's just a little flicker. When it first started happening, I panicked and pulled
over, but each time the oil level was good and the engine was nice and cool. So I figured the sensor was buggered and I'd fix it soon.
Two days ago it just kept flicking on and every time I'd slow down a little, the light went out, so this time, in true "boy who cried
wolf" tradition, when I get home, 10kms later, the engine IS hot and the oil level is frighteningly low (only about 2cm of the dipstick had oil).
So I wait for it to cool, apologise guiltily, put oil in, and all is well with the world.
Oil light flickers on once briefly last night, I check it, cool but this time too much oil. Stupidly I'd left the car on a slight incline when I
put the oil in, and the oil is about 2cm further up the dipstick than the full mark. But I'd just arrived at my friend's for new
year's, so I forget to do anything about it. (All up I probably drove 4kms with too much oil.)
But the real woes began today. I started the kombi, and it made a horrible sound. It was like all the normal noises were still there (and he
generally runs pretty smoothly), but there is this loud "churgling" sound over the top of everything. Sorry, but 'churgling' is
the best description I could come up with. The sound is quite rumbly.
And like an absolute moron, I slowly drove the 2kms home. No handling problems apparent, apart from the noise. But I took it very easy.
So does anyone have any ideas??? All I know is it doesn't sound pretty, and I think it may be all my fault! And post Xmas poverty is just
adding to the stress. I've only ever fixed peripheral things, like brakes and starters and cables. This is just seeming horribly daunting.
Thanks,
Angela
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath  |
|
|
kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
Custom Title Time!
disfunctionally capable
Posts: 1521
Threads: 84
Registered: December 18th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Concord West
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: always bleary
|
| posted on January 2nd, 2003 at 08:51 AM |
|
|
sounds like main bearings-maybe-unfortunately, find the biggest screwdriver you have, raise car, & put tip of screwdriver to various points on
crankcase & handle end to your ear, acts as stethoscope, step 2 drain oil, & remove access plate (not strainer the other round one with a
small depression in it) & see if there are any nasty bits of metal. good luck, sorry |
|
|
Che Castro
Custom Title Time!
ankle straps
Posts: 1945
Threads: 79
Registered: August 25th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Australia
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: (( }:-{D]
|
| posted on January 2nd, 2003 at 10:24 AM |
|
|
i'm guessing maybe the churgling sound is made my the crank frothing up the excess oil in the sump?
the oil pressure lights are usually made to a tolerance, and usually come on if pressure is below about 3-7 psi. what are u doing to measure oil
temp?
oil pressure is created by the pump trying to force oil through the tiny clearances between the bearings and the crank journals, lifters etc. When
these clearances become excessive you get low oil pressure. a vw engine i have heard will run on no oil for about 2 mins. Usually the engine will
just sieze, of if not the connecting rod will create enough heat to weld itself to the crankshaft journal and throw itself out of the engine case.
The only proper solution to low oil pressure is a rebuild. Sorry to tell u this if it sounds harsh but i had to face the same situation in the
past.
One solution is to buy a used engine with no much mileage on it.
Jon
|
|
|
bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 2nd, 2003 at 04:31 PM |
|
|
nasty kombi engine noise - update
Well I think I might be getting somewhere...
Changed the oil - very ugly and black, but luckily, no nasty shards of metal! However, the strainer plug plate thingy did have a nice layer of grunge,
about 1mm thick. When I wiped it off, it was irridescent metal colour! EEK! Maybe not a huge problem??? Not sure, but certainly not the nicest stuff
to find in the sump.
Churgly noise remains, and engine rocks more than usual, but not hugely. The more I listen, the less terrifying the sound seems. It certainly
doesn't sound like anything broken free and bashing around in there.
So while I'm at it, I figured I'd change the spark plugs (since I'm already filthy, and it hasn't been done in the year since
I've owned the car. More guilt!)
Lo and behold, when I removed the first lead from a plug, the lead part fell off the connector part and a huge pile of white and green corroded powder
fell out of the connector bit! So I'm figuring that maybe what I'm hearing is the resistance finally got too much for poor Walter (my
kombi), that cylinder stopped firing, and the imbalance is causing the engine to rock and has set up a new vibration noise???
Probabnly just clutching at straws here, but I'll know better after I get new leads and check it all out tonight. Any glimmer of hope is a good
thing, yes?
Thanks for replies so far guys!
BTW, Che, I don't really have a reliable way of measuring the oil temp. I've been working on the basis of, if I can hold the dipstick
easily, and it doesn't feel hot, then the oil is ok. Temp gauge sounds much more sensible.
Two more questions while I'm at it...
Where have they hidden my oil pressure sensor? Book says in front of distributor, but buggered if I can find it. Is it really tiny or masquerading
as something else?
Is there an art to undoing the oil pressure relief valve screw? The damn thing is very soft metal, and I'm worried about shearing it.
Thanks again,
Angela
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath |
|
|
Old Dubber
Wolfsburg Wizard
Posts: 605
Threads: 25
Registered: August 26th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Everton Hills, Brisbane, QLD, Australia 4053
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: great!
|
| posted on January 2nd, 2003 at 05:13 PM |
|
|
Angela,
The pressure switch is next to the distributer under the tinware, should have a rubber grommet with the wire going in.
Give me a ring after hours 33557943 and we can talk about your problem.
|
|
|
bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 2nd, 2003 at 05:43 PM |
|
|
found the oil pressure switch!
Hi Grahame
Thanks for the reply - I just came up from the car, and I'd found it. Here's where I get bonus moron points... It wasn't connected to a
wire at all, which is why I couldn't find it, so the wire must be flapping around in there occasionally earthing itself - hence my problem! (or
at least one problem!)
I didn't realise until I started reading the magic manual today, that the light should go on as an idiot switch when I turn the ignition.
So... new problem. Where the heck is the wire that's meant to connect to it? The only wire I can see that doesn't have a home to go to, is
a greeny-blue one that looks like it should connect to the coil. As in, it's coming out of the black tube from the front of the car, with
another wire that does connect to the coil. There's also, in that tube, a wire that's been cut off before it leaves the tube. But I
can't tell what colour it is. See how much I know about electrics?
I've tried earthing the bluey-green wire, but no oil light.
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath |
|
|
Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Andy's Adventures
Posts: 2818
Threads: 181
Registered: November 5th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Happy Man
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 02:49 AM |
|
|
Angela,
From memory, there are three wires going from the fire wall across the top of the motor (the black tube you mention). I also assume it's a type 4
motor??
One powering the coil, one going to the oil pressure switch, and one for the heater fan. The wire for the fan exit's the black tube near the
right carb., so that leaves only two to choose from near the coil. I don't have a wiring diagram for a '74 handy to see the wire colours.
And that's if your lucky enough to have onlt the original wires there.
Happy hunting.
Andy
|
|
|
kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
Custom Title Time!
disfunctionally capable
Posts: 1521
Threads: 84
Registered: December 18th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Concord West
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: always bleary
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 07:49 AM |
|
|
with your spark plug lead, it should be copper core, And the connector has a screw thread inside it, so you screw the connector onto the lead.So cut
off 1cm of the end of the lead, clean out the inside of the connector & screw it on again, the blue green wire should be the right one,
did you try connecting it & turning on ignition rather than just earthing it?
The grunge would have severely affected the oil pressure, have you still got the grunge? you can determine a lot if you find
out if it sticks to a magnetic or not after you have soaked it in degreaser. don't worry about the oil pressure relief valve yet, it is the
least of your problems. It would also be a good idea to take up Grahams kind offer & ring him,
Kim
[Edited on 2-1-2003 by kombikim] |
|
|
bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 09:53 AM |
|
|
I love you guys!!!!
I spoke to Grahame last night, and feel a lot more reassured. He's going to help me look the car over once I've got the ignition leads back
together again.
From what Andy and Kombikim have just said, I think that the wire I suspect is the right one. It looks like it's broken off short, so I'll
give it an extension and try plugging in the oil pressure sensor.
Hopefully I won't blow anything up!!!!
As for my grunge, I think I should still have it smeared all over a rag, so I'll go check it with a magnet. Am I hoping that it is or isn't
magnetic?
Thanks again,
Angela.
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath |
|
|
KruizinKombi
A.k.a.: Col
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
Posts: 3493
Threads: 104
Registered: August 25th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Gippsland, Victoria
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Indifferent
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 10:10 AM |
|
|
The wire to the oil pressure switch should be light green.
Kruizin Kol
|
|
|
kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
Custom Title Time!
disfunctionally capable
Posts: 1521
Threads: 84
Registered: December 18th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Concord West
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: always bleary
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 10:32 AM |
|
|
if it is not magnetic & dullish grey it is usually bearing surfaces, & if it is like a fine powder then it is normal wear, bits you can
actually see (like size if grain of sand)are a bit of a worry, magnetic bits are a real worry as they can be from the crankshaft or camshaft,
sometimes meaning the bearing surfaces aren't there any more, all this is "may" & "can be" but every little bit of info
can help when all put together, just like a jigsaw puzzle |
|
|
Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Andy's Adventures
Posts: 2818
Threads: 181
Registered: November 5th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Happy Man
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 10:34 AM |
|
|
All my wires in the engine bay are just a different shade of black, and that's after I clean them.
|
|
|
bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 02:39 PM |
|
|
YIPPEE!!!!!
All my troubles are over!!!!
Oil sensor is plugged in and working.
Metal grunge is just very fine powder, like a silver paste really, so hopefully my engine is still intact.
Spark plug leads are repaired rather than replaced, so I have spent no money, and all four cylinders are back on line.
Nasty evil noise is GONE!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the advice guys. Now I know my engine bay better than ever, and I'm not out of pocket a cent. I am, however, currently the
colour of my engine bay!
Only one little problem left... I lost a spark plug under the tinware around number 4. I actually lost 3 altogether but recovered two. A friend
told me not to stress, it will cause no harm. Can someone just confirm this for me before I go for a drive????
Thanks,
Angela
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath |
|
|
kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
Custom Title Time!
disfunctionally capable
Posts: 1521
Threads: 84
Registered: December 18th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Concord West
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: always bleary
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 02:54 PM |
|
|
I doubt if it would cause any harm I did exactly the same thing 2nd day after buying 1st Kombi and gave up trying to get it out after about three
days, once you have lost three or four I would start worrying. Don't give up trying to get it out though. Just attack the problem every now &
then when you are not stressed. I severly hope you are changing the Oil filter at the first opportunity, the fine paste is fairly normal wear, which
is a very good sign
Kim |
|
|
Andy
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Andy's Adventures
Posts: 2818
Threads: 181
Registered: November 5th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Happy Man
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
That's one I've definately done before myself. What a pain recovering one of those plugs. I now always carry one of those little extension
pick up magnets. I really helps to recover them.
I don't think they can do much damage in there, it's all open to allow cooling air over the fins. It would be nice to recover it just to be
sure though.
I also agree with Kim's comments on the filter, I also like to occasionally put an oil fluch through the system before dropping the oil.
Best of luck on the test run!
Andy
|
|
|
geodon
Wolfsburg Wizard
Posts: 478
Threads: 63
Registered: August 28th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: geelong
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: stumbling
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 03:49 PM |
|
|
Don't worry- be happy!
Don't know what it is about those spark plug holes! I once found a 13 16th's socket wrapped around a plug. Someone was trying to remove
the plug but it got stuck! The connector just went on as usual & it ran fine.
|
|
|
bluebus
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 150
Threads: 30
Registered: September 16th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Brisbane
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: happy happy joy
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 04:24 PM |
|
|
Good to know about the spark plug.... I don't think I have the stamina to fish for it any more today. I was using a magnet on a stick thingy,
but no luck.
Will definitely grab an oil filter this weekend.
66 Beetle & 66 Austin 1800... makes for a very stylish footpath |
|
|
kombikim
A.k.a.: Kim
Custom Title Time!
disfunctionally capable
Posts: 1521
Threads: 84
Registered: December 18th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney, Concord West
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: always bleary
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 04:32 PM |
|
|
OK I go home now then, remember dont remove pressure relief valve screw, it has a special sealing washer that should be replaced each time screw is
removed to obiviate leaks & cannot be substituted with anything else, |
|
|
 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
Super Administrator
Mad fabricator, paint and body
Posts: 7386
Threads: 312
Registered: September 1st, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: In the garage chopping cars into bits
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: In the thinking chair
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 07:47 PM |
|
|
If you get an oil filter, see if you can get the type with a nut on the bottom of it, as it makes it soooo easy to remove later on. I have had to
stick holes in filters before to get them out, because they are tight, and have no nut.
Peter
|
|
|
silver
Veteran Volks Folk
Dangerous when poked
Posts: 2169
Threads: 162
Registered: December 8th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Sydney
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: In 2 Minds
|
| posted on January 3rd, 2003 at 10:18 PM |
|
|
blue tac
spark plugs are easily lost i think we have all lost one .....but if you jam a wad of blue tac in your plug socket you will never lose another ....you
can also fish out the lost one with a blue tac blob, just make sure engine is really cold
Keeping it real !
|
|
|
amazer
Bishop of Volkswagenism
kombi pilot
Posts: 3187
Threads: 308
Registered: August 26th, 2002
Member Is Offline
Location: Wollongong
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Peachy!
|
| posted on January 6th, 2003 at 07:44 PM |
|
|
A plug socket with the rubber washer (or magnet) inside it should lift the plug out with no dramas. I've lost a few cos my rubber doo-hicky has
gone AWOL. Its prolly stuck on a plug in some car/engine somewhere. Putting them back in is easy enough. I jam some paper in the socket as well.
Filters come off easy with the right tool too. The one with three prongs sticking out.
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
|
|
|
