[ Total Views: 764 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 2925 ] |
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Unity-28
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 12:25 PM |
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Adz, My notch is a 69 Auto, with a 1835! Goes nice! The autos a pretty strong! Having said that, you probably shouldnt try and drag ppl!! hehe A guy
here in Melbourne has a 2l in an auto, and he has had no dramas whatsoever!!!!
But it does depend on how good condition the trans is in!!!!
Hope this has helped. N!
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Unity-28
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 12:46 PM |
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No Idea! Why not go for a 1914, or a 1835!? less stuffing around!!! Even a stock 1600 with duel carbs go ok!!!
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56astro
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 02:06 PM |
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Adam
Don't go down the 1835 path. Anyone that knows anything about 1835's will tell you you will be buying a whole lotta trouble.
Thin walled barrels = distortion = excessive BLOW-BY
[Edited on 9-1-2003 by 56astro]
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
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Unity-28
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 03:21 PM |
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I havent had any trouble with mine!!!! Its a daily drive, and had the motor for a year, not one drama!!!!! Everyone has different thoughts on all
things, so really you should do what YOU really wnat to do, not what we want you to do!!!!
Anyhow!:bounce N!
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Che Castro
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 05:29 PM |
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type 4 = expensive!!! well cheaper in the long run since they last for ages, but its a high initial outlay if u modify it.
Stock type 4 is a good idea, lots of torque from real low. Buy a good used one and whack it in and u have a nice goer.
I recently did a 1600 SP rebuild, i got
-Good used case (std size)
-re used old crank and rods (both std std)
-all new bearings
-new p&c's
-new cam & lifters
-re used pushrods
-rebuilt heads
-re used rockers
-new pump
-full flow stuff
-German gasket set
-sandblasted and powdercoated warm up flaps and thermostat
plus i had to buy a torque wrench and some other things like solvent etc.
All up it cost me about $1700. I built it myself with help from "how to rebuild your aircooled VW engine" by tom wilson and some phone
calls to v-force.
its really satisfying to rebuild ur own engine. If u want performance go with a stock type 4 or similar, its a shame cos i remember someone had a
2056 for sale not long ago for about the same price as a 1600 rebuild
Jon
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amazer
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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 08:25 PM |
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If you live up to that promise I reckon you will be the first male teenager ever to do it.
Im 32 and I still put the foot down to go faster than a kombi should. Just cos I can. Even on my own. Actually more when I'm alone so I dont get
told off so much by Mrs Amazer.
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf

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Flintstones
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posted on January 10th, 2003 at 06:45 PM |
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Adam,you should brace the chassis, as the huge increase in torque will give you problems in the long run. Plus the T4 is a little heavier than the T3
motor. At least run a rear mount to take up the extra weight of the engine.
If you can put in the frame horns, it will certainly help.
Cheers
[Edited on 10-1-2003 by Flintstones]
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KruizinKombi
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posted on January 10th, 2003 at 10:57 PM |
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I'd think that the rear mount (properly done) should be enough. Go for the type 4, you'll probably pick up a good runner from the wreckers
for $500 if you look around, just take a compression tester with you :thumb
Kruizin Kol
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kombi_kid
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posted on January 11th, 2003 at 11:15 AM |
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hey
we recently picked up a wreck (well marcel did for us) with a fully rebuilt 2L: motor and good cond 2L box (1 year old been sitting that long) for
$500!!!
cheers
rhys
p.s. ill give u a run for ya money us son-to-be "L" drivers.ahahahahaha 1600dp powered monster vs ur pussy foot 2L auto notch ahahahahaha
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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kombi_kid
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posted on January 12th, 2003 at 09:32 AM |
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ahahahahahahah all in good spirit!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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SKEWtYpe3
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posted on January 12th, 2003 at 11:18 PM |
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there are many articles on this changeover and they all add extra support for the much heavier type 4 engine
if u want some of my links email me but they arent hard to find
:bounce
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