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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 12:25 PM


Adz, My notch is a 69 Auto, with a 1835! Goes nice! The autos a pretty strong! Having said that, you probably shouldnt try and drag ppl!! hehe A guy here in Melbourne has a 2l in an auto, and he has had no dramas whatsoever!!!!

But it does depend on how good condition the trans is in!!!!

Hope this has helped. N!




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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 12:46 PM


No Idea! Why not go for a 1914, or a 1835!? less stuffing around!!! Even a stock 1600 with duel carbs go ok!!!



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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 02:06 PM


Adam

Don't go down the 1835 path. Anyone that knows anything about 1835's will tell you you will be buying a whole lotta trouble.

Thin walled barrels = distortion = excessive BLOW-BY

[Edited on 9-1-2003 by 56astro]




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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 03:21 PM


I havent had any trouble with mine!!!! Its a daily drive, and had the motor for a year, not one drama!!!!! Everyone has different thoughts on all things, so really you should do what YOU really wnat to do, not what we want you to do!!!!

Anyhow!:bounce N!




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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 05:29 PM


type 4 = expensive!!! well cheaper in the long run since they last for ages, but its a high initial outlay if u modify it.

Stock type 4 is a good idea, lots of torque from real low. Buy a good used one and whack it in and u have a nice goer.

I recently did a 1600 SP rebuild, i got

-Good used case (std size)
-re used old crank and rods (both std std)
-all new bearings
-new p&c's
-new cam & lifters
-re used pushrods
-rebuilt heads
-re used rockers
-new pump
-full flow stuff
-German gasket set
-sandblasted and powdercoated warm up flaps and thermostat

plus i had to buy a torque wrench and some other things like solvent etc.

All up it cost me about $1700. I built it myself with help from "how to rebuild your aircooled VW engine" by tom wilson and some phone calls to v-force.

its really satisfying to rebuild ur own engine. If u want performance go with a stock type 4 or similar, its a shame cos i remember someone had a 2056 for sale not long ago for about the same price as a 1600 rebuild




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posted on January 9th, 2003 at 08:25 PM


If you live up to that promise I reckon you will be the first male teenager ever to do it.

Im 32 and I still put the foot down to go faster than a kombi should. Just cos I can. Even on my own. Actually more when I'm alone so I dont get told off so much by Mrs Amazer.




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posted on January 10th, 2003 at 06:45 PM


Adam,you should brace the chassis, as the huge increase in torque will give you problems in the long run. Plus the T4 is a little heavier than the T3 motor. At least run a rear mount to take up the extra weight of the engine.
If you can put in the frame horns, it will certainly help.
Cheers

[Edited on 10-1-2003 by Flintstones]
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posted on January 10th, 2003 at 10:57 PM


I'd think that the rear mount (properly done) should be enough. Go for the type 4, you'll probably pick up a good runner from the wreckers for $500 if you look around, just take a compression tester with you :thumb



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posted on January 11th, 2003 at 11:15 AM


hey
we recently picked up a wreck (well marcel did for us) with a fully rebuilt 2L: motor and good cond 2L box (1 year old been sitting that long) for $500!!!
cheers
rhys
p.s. ill give u a run for ya money us son-to-be "L" drivers.ahahahahaha 1600dp powered monster vs ur pussy foot 2L auto notch ahahahahaha




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posted on January 12th, 2003 at 09:32 AM


ahahahahahahah all in good spirit!
cheers
rhys




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posted on January 12th, 2003 at 11:18 PM


there are many articles on this changeover and they all add extra support for the much heavier type 4 engine

if u want some of my links email me but they arent hard to find

:bounce


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