| [ Total Views: 784 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 31539 ] |
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 himmell
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| posted on November 13th, 2004 at 08:02 PM |
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stainless steel fasteners
I recently installed s/steel bolts to mount my guards, bonnet etc on my 67 as I thought it would be good idea to reduce the chance of corrosion. I was
just reading a post on the samba forums and this is part of a post
"also to keep in mind is that using s/steel against mild steel will cause a galvanic process to begin which basically means rust will start quicker
on the mild steel part. coper slipping the bolts will lesen this but it will still occur".
Anyone else used s/steel fasteners on mild steel?, have you noticed any more corrosion?. Now im thinking it wasnt such a great idea.:duh
Cheers
[Edited on 13-11-2004 by himmell]
mirp mirp went the hair lipped dog
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 barls
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| posted on November 13th, 2004 at 09:42 PM |
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there is a grease that will stop any corrosion but cannot remember the name.you get it from boating stores like bias and whitworths and it is yellow.
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on November 13th, 2004 at 11:51 PM |
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just done the same:o will be following this post also
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fetid_swamp
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| posted on November 14th, 2004 at 12:26 AM |
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dunno but
i use silver antisieze on everything that dosent need locktight...
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PurpleT3
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| posted on November 14th, 2004 at 11:34 AM |
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Although the statement on the Samba is correct, in practical terms the effect of the S/S bolts will b eminimal. The relative sizes of the bolts
compared to the body panels effects the rate of corrosion. The bolts are very small compared to the body panels, therefore although the body panels
will rust quicker with S/S bolts than with normal bolts the difference in corrosion rates wil be very very small.
As it is typically bolts which rust quickest, causing them to seize, the benefits outway the very slight increase in overall corrosion rates. If the
car is not rusty now and has a good paint job with reasonable rust protection, it will make bugger all difference.
I have had S/S srews holding my rego plates on for the last two years or so and haven't noticed any extra rust. They look a hell of a lot better
than the rusty old screws that were on there, so they're staying.
Go with the S/S fasteners, the Samba statement was probably made by somebody who knows only half the information.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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Secoh
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| posted on November 14th, 2004 at 11:54 AM |
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an anti-corrosion compound should be used. Any different metals against each other will get galvanic corrosion though some do it more than others.
Stainless in aluminium is asking for disaster unless you use an anti corrosion compound.
Aqua-lube boat trailer bearing grease is good, but there's a few choices at any marine shop. Beryllium based ones work the best, but don't lick
your fingers.
If it aint broke,
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57kombi
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| posted on November 14th, 2004 at 04:42 PM |
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I looked into this and the effect of using s/s in mild steel will effect it in such a minor way you could not really see the differance.
Hence I have replaced EVERY nut and bolt in my bus with stainless.
Cheers
Dave
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mnsKmobi
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| posted on November 15th, 2004 at 01:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 57kombi
I looked into this and the effect of using s/s in mild steel will effect it in such a minor way you could not really see the differance.
Hence I have replaced EVERY nut and bolt in my bus with stainless.
Cheers
Dave
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Every nut and bolt? I thought that s/s fasteners were not as strong as standard steel nuts and bolts and certainly not strong enough when high tensile
steel fasteners are required.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on November 15th, 2004 at 01:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by mnsKmobi
Every nut and bolt? I thought that s/s fasteners were not as strong as standard steel nuts and bolts and certainly not strong enough when high tensile
steel fasteners are required.
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Just use high tensile stainless bolts...LANOTEC (wool oil) will stop any galvanic reaction or go to a boat shop and ask them for the black stuff they
use between the alloy and stainless fittings...just can't remember what it is called at the moment..:jesus
[Edited on 15-11-2004 by Mick H]
tssnq.com.au
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PurpleT3
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| posted on November 15th, 2004 at 02:02 PM |
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If you are going to cover every nut & bolt with Lanotec or something similar, don't bother with S/S fasteners. If it stops galvanic corrosion it
will stop M/S bolts from rusting too.
Ask for grade A4-80 fasteners, these are 316 S/S with the same strength as grade 8.8 high tensile fasteners. These should be strong enough for
virtually all applications on a VW except for maybe some suspension and engine fittings. Just check the grade of the existing fasteners before you
replace them. If you need stronger ones they will start to get expensive and harder to find.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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penguin
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| posted on November 16th, 2004 at 07:04 AM |
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has anyone got a listing of the bolts for a Bug?
I seem to remember someone once mentioning they had a complete listing of all the bolts in a bug????
I know that if they did, it would be a much easier purchase from a supplier than walking in every two to three days and asking for another five of
this, and three of that.......
'Ah, whatever................'
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57kombi
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| posted on November 16th, 2004 at 09:04 AM |
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I have used Hi-Tensile stainless ones where needed and yes it was expensive.
$13.00 each for the top front shocker bolts.
Cheers
Dave
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lexm
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| posted on November 16th, 2004 at 07:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 57kombi
I have used Hi-Tensile stainless ones where needed and yes it was expensive.
$13.00 each for the top front shocker bolts.
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That would buy a hell of a lot of Permatex #3....
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68AutoBug
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| posted on November 17th, 2004 at 07:08 AM |
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the normal Stainless steel bolts sold at the local Bolt shop [30kms away] are lower tensile than High tensile bolts but higher than mild steel
bolts...
I have used a mixture of Stainless steel and zinc plated high tensile Gr5 & Gr8 & Gr10 bolts in My Beetle...
I don't like black High tensile Bolts...
John Deere tractor dealers sell zinc plated High Tensile bolts..
I really like the Allen headed stainless bolts but they are expensive when the sizes get bigger.....
I don't mind buying them a few at a time then it doesn't seem like You are spending much money......
until You add it all up...
I made new exhaust studs from Stainless steel bolts with the heads cut off.... with stainless nuts...
Lee
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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DIY-DUB
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| posted on January 9th, 2006 at 04:08 PM |
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thankyou very much blutopless! anyone got the list penguin mentioned by any chance??:bounce
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 07:08 AM |
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Hmmm, stainless is generally more susceptible to fatigue than standard high strength steel. The galvanic corrosion will not be an issue unless there
is some return path for the current, as is the case in seawater, where galvanic protection works quite well: see for example the Det Norske Veritas
(DNV) standard DNV-RP-B401, "Cathodic Protection Design", which deals with sacrifical anode design for marine structures. Perhaps in very wet
environments there may be some localised accelerated corrosion around the interface between the SS and the mild steel...
Sounds good to me though. Cheers, Aurel.
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toplessbug
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 07:45 AM |
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dont walk into a nut n bolt place and ask for 10 6mm ,20 8mm etc you will be ripped--always buy boxes of the common sizes ,you will be surprised how
few there are -- and you will find the price much lower:beer:beer:beer
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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penguin
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 07:46 AM |
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Nope,
I guess that you may have to do it 1 bolt at a time (until you get to the guards, then its a stack of bolts at a time)
'Ah, whatever................'
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Mad Manx
A.k.a.: Travin C.
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 09:19 AM |
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Aways try to buy your s/s bolts from a boating warehouse/shop, I can buy s/s bolts cheaper from the marina in town than I can get shitty mild steel
ones from bunnings, almost 50% cheaper......
- '71 Kombi (Died 24/11/05  ) - '65 manx (smick)
-'63 beetle (bent) -'73 Singlecab (new to the stable) |
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modulus
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 10:42 AM |
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For what it's worth,
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=THK0001&carti...
and
http://totallystainless.net/totally.html
I expect freight would be a killer, so local suppliers will probably work out better.
hth
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PurpleT3
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| posted on January 10th, 2006 at 11:06 AM |
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Lee, don't mean to teach my granny to suck eggs, but stainless on stainless will gall when it gets hot so the nuts will seize onto the studs and
you'll be lucky to get them off again. Always use anti sieze in this situation.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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Euro_67
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| posted on January 11th, 2006 at 07:29 AM |
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In sydney try Mullings Fastners on Botany Road Alexandrea, or Coventry Fastners in Bourke Street Alexandrea.
Most fastneers in stock, in different metals grades and sizes.
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