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 robert53
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 posted on December 30th, 2004 at 03:34 PM |
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front hood paint has tiny cracks throughout
Hi,
My beetle has tiny cracks all over the hood (the front) on the paintwork. It is the original paint, and now the paint seems to get more chips.
Anyway, I want to re spray it, but I was told the old paint would have to be removed otherwise the cracks will appear on the new paint. Is this true?
And if so, does this mean I have to sand to bare metal?
I was told that I could get a new hood for $275 and am not sure if I should get that instead of repairing the rust, and stripping and getting it re
sprayed.
One last question, I assume the new hood would be mexican or brazillian, would this still be able to be fitted to the hindges, or do I need new ones
to fit the hood. I was yet again told that the new bonnets don't fit.
Any info would be great.
Thanks
It may be rusty, but it's reliable!
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Unity-28
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| posted on December 30th, 2004 at 11:26 PM |
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Redo the original hood. It will fit a whole lot better than a new one, and you cant beat the quality of the originals. And Yes go back to bare
metal...
N!
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robert53
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| posted on January 1st, 2005 at 11:13 AM |
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Hey Thanks, I think I will do that.
Also, my bonnet is a bit warped so it does not site flush to the front apron. Do you reckon body shops can fix it up? I got no idea if they could.
It may be rusty, but it's reliable!
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Jason
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 01:36 AM |
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Does anybody know the pros and cons of importing a Kombi, new, from Brazil?
Signed: Jason
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 helbus
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 07:53 AM |
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If you were able import a new kombi from Brazil, it would probably end up costing you about $30,000
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robert53
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 10:42 AM |
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You can always just import the parts and get someone here is aus to put it together. Will save you a ton, as you don't pay tax for a whole
vehicle.
Also, often the new parts such as body arn't always compatible with the old original parts, so you need to get mostly new parts as they will only
fit, however I can't confirm if it is true.
Contact H Ferman (or something similar) in Boundary road peakhurst, Sydney. They are importers and should be able to give you all the info you need.
For a beetle body, I think it was $4000 without doors and etc.
It may be rusty, but it's reliable!
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 12:38 PM |
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If you are going all the way back to bare metal, do your self and your fingerprints a favour and get an angle grinder (a little 4 or 5 " one works a
treat) and 3M scotchbrite pad discs (they come in various levels of aggressiveness). They are the easiest way of removing paint without badly
scratching the underlying metal that I have found.
Just go easy when you do get to the metal, as if you lean on it you can still put scratches in the steel deep enough to show up through paint. Usually
its OK, especially if you put a coat of spray putty / primer filler (basically just a thicker primer) over your first coat of etch primer.
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PurpleT3
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 02:03 PM |
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It might be worth searching the local area for a blaster who can bead blast it for you. At a guess you could probably get it done for about $100. By
the time you add up the cost of a grinder and scotchbrite discs (which are not cheap) it will come out about the same. Plus the fact a bead blaster
will leave a much better finish and get into all the nooks and crannies without leaving any scratches.
You should weigh up the option of buying a good, straight second hand hood from a wrecker. As panel beating tends to be expensive, this may be
cheaper than having your hood straightened.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 02:05 PM |
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I keep forgetting about blasting panels because I've personally never had the luxury of it myself, and hence do things the hard way sometimes...
Yes, the scotchbrite pads arent cheap but they do rip through paint very nicely.
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helbus
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 03:59 PM |
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Ultimatley you will have to take it in to a panel beater to assess whether your hood is
1 only cracked in the paint
2 not cracked due to full of filler and out of shape
3 worth repairing
4 not fitting because the front apron is mis-aligned from old repair
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5PL1TDCS10N
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| posted on January 6th, 2005 at 10:21 PM |
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Hi Robert,
You can usually assess the condition of a bonnet from underneath, if there is damage you will be able to see it quite clearly.
I'd recommend using paint stripper to strip the paint off, as its very cost effective.
W
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helbus
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| posted on January 7th, 2005 at 12:05 AM |
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I agree with using paint stripper on a seperate panel like a bonnet. I paint stripped ours and then used a pressure washer to get the residue off and
it was just clean bare metal all over.
It would cost you about $5 per layer of paint per panel to strip it as a rough estimate if you use paint stripper.
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robert53
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| posted on January 12th, 2005 at 01:40 PM |
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Well the paint on the bonnet only appears to be cracked, but I have not looked at the primer. I don't want to sand it just yet.
There is minimal rust, and no filler on it, (except at the rust spot, near the top right hand side).
I don't think I could paint it myself, as It would probably look dodgy as I have not mastered using my compressor with spray painting, so I currently
am still sticking with the tins. But I won't attempt to spray the bonnet with tins.
The 3M pads seem a good idea for the other rust repairs. How much are they each?
Also, what are your thoughts to fibreglass putty?
I patch the holes with steel plates, attached with rivets, then normally use just regular auto putty.
Does the fibreglass putty seem to crack less or is it just the same as regular bondo?
It may be rusty, but it's reliable!
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helbus
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| posted on January 12th, 2005 at 01:47 PM |
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Ummm you cannot "repair" rust by riveting or with fibreglass filler. It hides it and it only gets worse. Then it cracks and you have a bigger hole.
Maybe 6 months, maybe 2 years.
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robert53
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| posted on January 14th, 2005 at 10:02 AM |
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I worded it badly, the rust gets cleaned up, sanded and etc ( and sometimes cut out), then rust remover is applied, then steel plates attached,
filler, then primer. I know it is not a permanent fix, it lasts probably about 2-4 years.
What is the best way to tackle the rust, is it to cut all the affected areas and weld new pieces?
It may be rusty, but it's reliable!
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