| [ Total Views: 1093 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 34927 ] |
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 Brad
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| posted on February 1st, 2005 at 09:09 PM |
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EJ Series Fault Codes
Couldn't find these in a hurry when I wanted them so I have added a tech article to the Custom Offroad Website ( http://www.customoffroad.com.au ) and thought I would put them hear as well.
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6)
26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy)
28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side)
29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2)
31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX)
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX)
38 Engine Torque Control (SVX)
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
43 Throttle Switch
44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non-Turbo Models)
46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit
47 Fuel Injector
49 Airflow Sensor
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)
51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models)
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
53 Fuel Pump or Circuit
54 Choke Control System
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
56 EGR System
57 Canister Control System
58 Air Control System
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza)
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza)
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza)
64 Vacuum Line Control Valve or Circuit
65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor
66 Sequential turbo system
67 Exhaust valve solenoid (positive pressure)
68 Exhaust valve duty solenoid
71 Ignition Pulse System
73 Ignition Pulse System
74 Ignition Pulse System
88 TBI Control Unit
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type2nut
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| posted on February 1st, 2005 at 09:42 PM |
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You champion Brad :kiss
Can you recommend a reader for me to get to read these codes?
Thanks,
Andy.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 1st, 2005 at 09:54 PM |
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thanx brad,
can you explain how they work? How does the number correspond to the warning light code?
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Brad
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| posted on February 2nd, 2005 at 10:41 AM |
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Reading Codes
Ok the following applies to stock EJ's and I am not getting into anything other than that at this stage. On your wiring loom near the ECU you will
find two small black plugs ( white on some years ). Simply follwoing these steps:
- Turn off Engine
- Plug black plugs togeather
- Turn Ignition on ( Do not start engine )
- Engine check light will then flash the codes at you one after the other. Long flash for first figure short for second. There will be a pause between
each code. If there is only one code then it will just keep showing it. If there are no codes then it will just flash.
Simply as that. Once you have your codes simply look them up on the above list and away you go. That should give you a start point.
If you don't have the black plugs on your loom anymore then let me know and I will track down the pin outs and let you know how to wire it up
directly to the ECU.
You don't need a reader for the EJ22's.
Later model EJ's with OBD2 instead of 1 will need a reader but there are ways around it.
[Edited on 2-2-2005 by Buggy Brad]
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 2nd, 2005 at 11:21 AM |
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mine has two sets of plugs, green and black, you use one to do the diagnostic and the second to show the fault after the diagnostic.
My questions is, how can I tell which code is which fault number?
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Brad
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| posted on February 2nd, 2005 at 03:07 PM |
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the numbers on the left are the signals. Your engine light should flash
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on February 2nd, 2005 at 04:46 PM |
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Yeah the TENS digit will be a set of long flashes, and the ONES will be smaller flashes.. every number is then seperated by an even longer pause.
EG if you haves codes 12 and 23 coming up, you'll get a light flashing like.
__1_____2__________2_________3_______
__|--|__|-|_|-|_____|--|__|--|__|-|_|-|_|-|____ then repeats
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 09:25 AM |
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ta ratbug
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 01:39 PM |
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Ok, I just did the diagnostic thingo and came up with this
long long short short short short (24?)
pause
long long long short short (32?)
Mine motor is the EJ25 quadcam. Now the codes say that is the idle air circuit and the airflow-meter. How do I check these components?
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Brad
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 02:36 PM |
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mm ok sorry in advance for the length. I am only half way through the error code soultions list but here are your two codes and there test info.
24 is the ISC ....
ISC Valve increases engine speed when engine temp is low by venting air into the air duct behind the throttle plate. If there is an error with it
then it usually means that your engine should either have a problem at idling such as hunting or engine stall .
The valve is usually located on the Throttle body.
To test is quite simple :
1 - Disconnect the electrical harness to the IAC valve while the engine is idling. Check to see that the rpm drops
2 - Connect the IAC valve connector and check to see that engine rpm resumes its original speed. This needs to be done when the engine is cold as if
it is warm the drop will be bugger all.
3 - Stop the engine, then disconnect the electrical harness from the IAC valve.
4 - Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5 - Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage across power terminal BW on the SAC valve connector and ground. Voltmeter should read 10 volts. If the
voltage obtained is less than specified check the harness.
6 - Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between each terminal of the connector on the IAC valve.
The ohmmeter should read 7.3-13 ohms at -4°F..-176°F (-20°C..-80°C). If specifications are not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
7 - Using an ohmmeter, measure the insulation resistance between each terminal of the connector on the IAC valve and ground. The ohmmeter should read
1 mega-ohm. If specifications are not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
8 - Connect the IAC valve harness, then disconnect the control unit electrical harness.
9 - Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Using a voltmeter measure the voltage between terminal 45 (GR) of the control unit harness and
ground. Voltmeter should read 10 volts. If specifications are not as specified, check the harness between the IAC Valve and the control unit.
10 - Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then connect the controls unit harness.
11 - Monitor the voltage across terminal 45 (GR) on the control unit harness and ground, when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position.
Voltmeter should read 1 volt for approximately 1 minute after the ignition switch is turned ON and 10 volts after 1 minute. If specifications are not
as specified, check for poor contact of the terminal or a faulty control unit.
12 - Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then disconnect the IAC valve hose.
13 - Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Look through the open end of the pipe (from which the air control pipe was disconnected) and check
that the valve moves from the fully closed position to the fully opened position, 1 minute after the ignition switch is turned to the ON position.
By now you should be able to ascertain if the problem is the IAC valve or the wiring / ECU. Either way FC 24 is nothing major.
32 – Oxygen Sensor not the Air Flow Meter. If it is faulty then you may find it bad to drive and crap idle.
There are two types of oxygen sensors used in these vehicles. They are the single wire oxygen sensor (02S) and the heated oxygen sensor (H02S). The
oxygen sensor is a spark plug shaped device that is screwed into the exhaust manifold. It monitors the oxygen content of the exhaust gases and sends a
voltage signal to the Electronic Control Module (ECU). The ECU monitors this voltage and, depending on the value of the received signal, issues a
command to the mixture control .The heated oxygen sensor has a heating element incorporated into the sensor to aid in the warm up to the proper
operating temperature and to maintain that temperature.
The proper operation of the oxygen sensor depends upon four basic conditions:
1. Good electrical connections. Since the sensor generates low currents, good clean electrical connections at the sensor are a must.
2. Outside air supply. Air must circulate to the internal portion of the sensor. When servicing the sensor, do not restrict the air passages.
3. Proper operating temperatures. The ECU will not recognize the sensor's signals until the sensor reaches approximately 600°F (316°C).
4. Non-leaded fuel. The use of leaded gasoline will damage the sensor very quickly.
TESTING
Single Wire Sensor
1. Start the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature, then run the engine above 1200 rpm for two minutes.
2. Backprobe with a high impedance averaging voltmeter multimeter, set to the DC voltage scale, between the oxygen sensor (02S) and battery ground.
3. Verify that the 02S voltage fluctuates rapidly between 0.40-0.60 Volts.
4. If the 02S voltage is stabilized at the middle of the specified range (approximately 0.45-0.55 volts) or if the 02S voltage fluctuates very slowly
between the specified range (02S signal crosses 0.5 volts less than 5 times in ten seconds), the 02S may be faulty.
5. If the 02S voltage stabilizes at either end of the special fied range, the ECU is probably not able to compensate for a mechanical problem such as
a vacuum leak, faulty pressure regulator or high float level. These types of mechanicalproblems will cause the 02S to sense a constant lean or
constant rich mixture. The mechanical problem will first have to be repaired then the 02S test repeated.
6. Pull a vacuum hose located after the throttle plate. Voltage should drop to approximately 0.12 volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests
the ability of the 02S to detect a lean mixture condition. Reattach the vacuum hose.
7. Richen the mixture using a propane enrichment tools. Voltage should rise to approximately 0.90 Volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests
the ability of the 02S to detect a rech mixture condition.
8. Off the 02S voltage is above or below the specified range, the 02S and/or tho 02S wiring may bo faulty Check the wiring for any breaks, repair as
necessary and repeat the test.
Heated Oxygen Sensor
1. Start the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature, then run the engine above 1200 rpm for two minutes.
2. Turn the ignition OFF, and disengage the H02S harness connector.
3. Check for battery voltage at the wires with the ignition switch ON and the engine off. If not, there is a problem in the wiring. Check the H02S
wiring and the fuse.
4. Next, connect a high impedance ohmmeter between the black wire and white wire. Verify that the resistance is 3.5-14.0 ohms.
5. If the H02S heater resistance is not as specified, the H02S may be faulty.
6. Start the engine and bring it to normal operating temperature, then run the engine above 1200 rpm for two minutes.
7. Backprobe with a high impedance averaging voltmeter or multimeter, set to the DC voltage scale between the oxygen sensor (02S) and battery ground.
8. Verify that the 02S Voltage fluctuates rapidty between 0.40-0.60 volts.
9. If the 02S voltage is stabilized at the middle of the specified range (approximately 0.45-0.55 volts) or it the 02S voltage fluctuates very slowly
between the specified range (02S signal crosses 0.5 volts less than 5 times in ten seconds), the 02S may be faulty.
10. If the 02S voltage stabilizes at either end of the specified range, the EGU is probably not able to compensate for a mechanical problem such as a
vacuum leak or a faulty fuel pressure regulator. These types of mechanical problems will cause the 02S to sense a constant lean or constant rich
mixture. The mechanical problem will first have to be repaired and then the 02S test repeated.
11. Pull a vacuum hose located after the throttle plate. Voltage should drop to approximately 0.12 volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests
the ability of the 02S to detect a lean mixture condition. Reattach the vacuum hose.
12. Richen the mixture using a propane enrichment tool. Voltage should rise to approximately 0.90 volts (while still fluctuating rapidly). This tests
the ability of the 02S to detect a rich mixture condition.
13. If the 02S voltage is above or below the specified range, the 02S and/or the 02S wiring may be faulty. Check the wiring for any breaks, repair as
necessary and repeat the test.
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 04:31 PM |
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Now thats some proper in detailed advice !
Good stuff Brad, you're the man for Subaru for sure.
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type2nut
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 05:32 PM |
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Pete,
sounds like you may have the source of your long standing problem!
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on February 3rd, 2005 at 06:02 PM |
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thanx Brad, you're my hero :kiss
BTW, still enjoying all the vids of you punishing ya buggy, thanx for such quik service. :thumb
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Brad
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 09:48 AM |
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Hi Guys,
Yeah I must say I love these subie's.. Been wasteing a lot of time researching and putting togeather a comprehensive idiot guide to keep then
running sweat. The COR wiring harness will shortly incorporate a few features that should allow a trained monkey to work out what the problem is if
any at all. I knew that government funded IT degree would come in handy :>
Cheers,
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