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 sax
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 04:49 PM |
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Engine keeps running after turning off ignition.
Does this mean I need to retard the timing a bit, or a lot?
Keeps running for a good few seconds and needs to be stalled in gear to kill it.
Its a 1300 beetle, dead stock.
Which way should i turn the dizzy?
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pyr0
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 05:22 PM |
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mixtures too rich mayb, that whjat mine does after i hammer the crap outta it, and the mixtures are waaay too rich.
hope that helps
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 05:28 PM |
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usually timing ,which way to turn ????????
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tassupervee
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 09:18 PM |
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Umm sorry men, have a think about things, how could it be anything to do with timing when the ignition is switched off??
This behaviour is usually caused by hot spots in the combustion chambers, usually burnt oil (carbon) deposits in the chamber staying hot enough to
ignite incoming fuel.
You cant do any adjustments that will have any effect.
Live with it.
Or, pull the heads and de-coke it.
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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 Bizarre
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 09:22 PM |
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have you played with the timing???
start again and re time it
one the timing is right and the valves are right IF it is persisting check the mixture setting
IF it is dead stock it SHOULD be able to be tuned out
Futue te ipsum!!!
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sax
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 09:35 PM |
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It has only recently started, nothing has been touched on it.
Could be due for a tuneup, but it runs strong and has no other problems.
The carb is suspect, has a small fuel leak and needs replacement.
Would valve clearance issues cause it as well?
Heads off and decoke is a hassle as its a daily driver in traffic and only form
of transport at the moment.
Anybody know who has a new pic 28 carb at a good price?
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manxed69
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 10:23 PM |
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Have you thought of using water to clean off the carbon?
You run the engine and pour a small amount of water down the carbie. You will need to rev it and keep it going as the water will slow it down. The
theory behind this is that the water turns to steam inside the cylinder and takes off some of the carbon with it. This was one of the added advantages
of cars that had water injection systems. I have never done this to a air cooled engine myself, only to a water cooled one.
An alternative to this maybe is to try something like Optimax for a few tank fulls. This fuel is supposed to include a cleaning agent. Are you running
LRP, maybe that's the sorse of your problems.
Good Luck
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Anthiron
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 10:32 PM |
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id say try running a higher octane fuel. sometimes engines run on when they need a higher octane. id try premium for a couple of tanks before
changeing anything drastic
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supercab
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| posted on February 4th, 2005 at 10:47 PM |
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If the car has an electric idle jet, as 1600 TP's have, it may be stuck open.
I believe this was the reason they put them in these cars - the anti-pollution systems made the engine run on when turned off.
Have a look just below the mixture screw on the Left of the carby. It is a small metal barrel shaped object with a wire going to it.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on February 5th, 2005 at 12:40 AM |
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Yes, there shouldn't be any power going to the ignition system after the key is turned off....
and there shouldn't be any fuel because of the fuel electromagnetic cut off in the carburetor....
it should click when the wire is taken off and put back on with the ignition turned ON...
If all the above is working it cannot run on, as it still needs fuel to keep on running...
Lee Noonan --
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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wiseoldub
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| posted on February 27th, 2005 at 07:20 AM |
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i was suffering this problem untill just recently when i switched to higher octane unleaded for every tank. i used to mix it up a bit but now with
just premium fuel , she runs cleaner, more cost effectivly, and hasnt run on since the switch. its the easiest way to improve your performance all
round! if this dont work, then try all the other methods.
good luck
josh
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on February 27th, 2005 at 08:59 AM |
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I agree with tasee, running on needs fuel, air and ignition to happen, its got air from the manifold, fuel if the idle cutout solenoid is leaking/duff
(can run on a bit even if sol ok) and an ignition point. This can be a hot spot from carbon or a hot valve edge, a hot sparkplug electrode can do it.
The question is, why is that getting that hot?
If valves are not adjusted right the heat transfer is poor, and if the valves are not transferring heat.....
can you say 'burnt valve'
If the mixture is lean it will run hotter, as well as too much timing advance for the octane of the fuel and/or the compression ratio.
Intake or exhaust leak can cause hot running too
What do the plugs look like? (post a piccy)
My suggestion is to do a tuneup- adjust valves, timing etc so it is dead stock.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on February 27th, 2005 at 10:40 AM |
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New Fuel cutoff Solenoid Needed****
The engine should have smelt hot... so they say.....
but its a bit hard with a VW....
I still say the electromagnetic fuel cutoff solenoid isn't doing its job.... to cut off the fuel supply....
Head temps in a VW air cooled engine do get very high....
and with a bit of carbon in the cylinder head..... although its Never happened to any VWs I have owned....
New Solenoid will definately stop the problem.....
plus try some premium unleaded in the tank.....
Have You been using any unknown brand of petrol lately...??
that could be part of the problem... too
cheers
Lee
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on February 27th, 2005 at 10:42 AM |
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Its a wonder Your avatar doesn't stop that engine.....
I hate it.....
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