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 lugnuts
A.k.a.: Mike
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| posted on February 15th, 2003 at 06:08 PM |
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Engine Balancing.
Hey,hows it going,has anyone out there had there engine balanced,either statically or dynamically.If so details details,by who,how much and most
importantly do you think it made a differance and are you happy with it.Thanks a bunch.Mick.:kiss |
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BiX
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| posted on February 15th, 2003 at 06:26 PM |
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I just got the Standard crank, clutch, flywheel balanced when I did my rebiuld. It doesn't cost heaps. It made my engine smoother and also I
think it reduces possible loads on bearings etc, much like if a wheel is out of balance u can feel it through the steering wheel. It should help make
the engine last longer to some extent. |
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Woozy
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on February 15th, 2003 at 06:34 PM |
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It is worth having your crank etc balanced if you are using standard stuff. I would consider it essential if you have a counterweighted crank.
It makes the engine rev smoother and reduces the loads on the bearings. You should also get a better life out of the engine.
In WA it costs around $120 to get everything balanced.
While you are at it you might as well get the flywheel lightened as well 
:vader
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I belive i shall have a beer !
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splitbusaustralia
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on February 16th, 2003 at 06:25 AM |
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Don't forget volumetric balancing
You can do all the static balancing (pistons and rods) yourself. Just buy a scale (electronic) with gram resolution.
You can do the pistons and rods (end for end too).
Have to take the rotating stuff out to get it done. Get the crank balanced with pulley and flywheel and pressure plate (new) on. Mark position of
everything relative to everything else so you can reassemble in balanced configuration.
Blue print yer oil pump while your at it - sand pump body on glass with 400 wet'n'dry until 0 gap and make sure cover face is smooth.
Chamfer inlet/outlet as per "how to Hot Rod' - this is all a Berg pump is.... Match port your manifolds and heads/exhaust.
The other bit is VOLUMETRIC balancing. CC your heads and get your combustion volumes all the same. Work out/set your compression while yer there - I
think low 7s are good myself.
You can even cool it with a type4 oil cooler in a modified doghouse shroud.
Full flow filter if you want.
This is how you get that sought after 'free' horsepower and one VERY sweet smooth engine. Runs strong, runs cool and lasts..
RobK
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