[ Total Views: 680 | Total Replies: 5 | Thread Id: 38383 ] |
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BLUE_62
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 04:42 AM |
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Guard top indicators
Hey,
can someone please explain to me the method i should use to get rid of my guard top indicators. I would like to relocate them to the front bumper
hotrod style but fixing the holes is where i need help. Thanks in advance for any advice.
1958 Beetle, 1966 VW Beetle, 1996 Holden Statesman!
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akean1
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 08:15 AM |
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you could weld or fibreglass patch on under side of the guard, and fill the shalow circle left on top with bog, or cut a circle of metal to weld in
the hole from the top, and use a grinder to clean it up
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
23 Windows of Awesome
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posted on April 29th, 2005 at 12:11 PM |
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Here is how I did it:
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This is how to do it right - you can do it quicker by welding a plate under the hole then bog it up (or use fibreglass)....which way to do it
ultimately is your call but I didn't want my paint cracking, or an ugly plate on the underside of the hole - took longer but turned out well. Fair
bit of time getting the shape right with filler still though even when using the above method.
Alan
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Jeza
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posted on April 30th, 2005 at 08:32 AM |
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Alan
Did you have any warping at all?
How do you avoid it warping? Is it a case of doing a little at a time and then letting it cool off?
I've been meaning to fill my indicator holes in for a while.
Thanks
Jeremy
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Che Castro
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ankle straps
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posted on April 30th, 2005 at 09:56 AM |
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Yeah what dasdubber said. welding in steel is the best option. Whenever you weld you will always get some distortion. If you take it slowly and use
minimal heat on your welder you can minimize distortion. Either way after you weld it in you will end up grinding it back and beating it flat, put a
little skim of filler over it and voila.
Probably will have to either respray your guards or you might be able to touch up and blend over it. Better to probably respray the whole guad.
Jon
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Dasdubber
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posted on May 1st, 2005 at 11:11 AM |
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No distortion - especially with the original guards, they are quite thick there and with the contour/shape (not a big flat panel) they are less likely
to warp.
Definitely a little at a time, I used compressed air via a blower (hand held gun) to cool it in between welds.
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