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Author: Subject: EJ22 into Bay Microbus - Finished project
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posted on June 17th, 2005 at 09:31 PM


Just picked up the pod adapter and pod air cleaner. Fleur chose a purple one to go with the purple flames. I think she has a secret ricer fetish :)



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posted on June 22nd, 2005 at 11:34 PM


Gotta say I admire you guys who take a long time sometimes years to finish a project!!

I should get the gearbox back early next week and then the weekend after I am gonna get into it and get this motor back in and started.




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posted on July 4th, 2005 at 08:22 PM


Fleur does a lot of the work herself. This is putting the adapterplate on.

What do ya reckon Brad? Terry? Would she do good working at COR?

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posted on July 4th, 2005 at 08:28 PM


COR throttle body inverter.

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posted on July 4th, 2005 at 08:35 PM


COR modified sump. Doesn't hang down at all. Level with everything else on the bottom of the motor

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posted on July 7th, 2005 at 02:17 PM


Fluer may well be a fine woman with the tools, but she'll have to have dirtier knees to really impress me :P
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posted on July 16th, 2005 at 06:59 PM


Motor and gearbox are bolted together. Loom is finished and plugged into VW wiring. Fuel pump is fittet and hose from tank to pump done.

No more time left today. I will see if I can get it in next Saturday. It is getting close now.




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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 11:35 PM


This is the replacement tube I have made to allow the PCV and air valve? tubes to fit between the airflow meter (AFM) and throttle body (TB). This is of course because you cannot run the big plastic banana tube the Suby has originally. This is fitted using two adapter rubber tubes, one of which is stepped down. This is because the AFM is 80mm dia and the TB is 70mm dia.

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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 11:53 PM


Sump is Custom Off Road modified unit. Physically everything is going pretty well. No problems as such so far.

This is where I mounted the fuel pump.

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posted on July 18th, 2005 at 11:57 PM


I was lucky as the fuel tank had a removable barb and retaining nut on the petrol tank. This allowed me to put a larger 10mm barb on the tank outlet, so it was the same as the 10mm inlet on the VL Commodore electric fuel pump.

The return line is pumped back into the top of the tank into one of the two breather pipes available. I have no concerns about this as most fuel tanks have only one breather anyway. Doing it all this way meant I did not have to take the tank out or get an EFI tank.

This pic shows the thread on the bottom of the tank.

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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 12:00 AM


Good spot for pump.Kept away from electics:thumbJVLRacing
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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 09:50 AM


Looking good, are you going to put a surge tank somewhere? EFI Fuel pumps don't like running dry and can be difficult to prime without a surge tank. Just a thought.



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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 10:44 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by MikeM
Looking good, are you going to put a surge tank somewhere? EFI Fuel pumps don't like running dry and can be difficult to prime without a surge tank. Just a thought.

VW tanks have a 'surge' bulge in the fuel tank base around the pickup/fuel outlet. It's not perfect, but will do the job for a road car as long as there is a litre or two in the tank.

A pod aircleaner mounted directly to the MAF may upset the signal. Most OE MAFS have a length of straight pipe immediately in front of them... Keep this in mind in case you get lumpy running/driveability issues




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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 01:35 PM


The surge tank would not be required as the fuel pump is at least 20cm below the tank and would always have fuel being pushed down into it. It would be a different story if the outlet of the tank sucked up like a straw from the top of a tank. That is when you would get the air issues like when you have nearly finished your soft drink.



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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 02:19 PM


The EJ 22 has a wire sensor AFM and it doesn't seem to car about the pod being mounted right on it. It does not like oil filters though .... it seems to kill them, funny that.

Surge tanks don't seem to be needed. I have run mine to needing 43 litres of fuel and the tank only holds 45 at best. It kept going fine.

Progress looks good, I like some of the little mods you have done and will include them in the kit.

Keep up the good work, looking fwd to seeing it go ... I will be back In Melbourne next week so maybe we can go for a spin :>




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posted on July 19th, 2005 at 03:21 PM


Hey that's what it is all about. With feedback, it can only help you guys at COR. I am keeping a sort of diary and will present a report when finished. And I thought school days were over. :lol:



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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:18 PM


It doesn't look like I have been doing much, but that is becaus I am fussy and meticulous. I checked everything at least 10 times. Took me about an hour to put the motor in today, plug the wires in, connect the fuel lines, put on the exhaust. Hit the key and it started straight away.

I must say it was a good feeling to just have it start up like that.




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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:19 PM


The motor and gearbox assy

nn[ Edited on 23-7-2005 by Helbus ]

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:23 PM


Lowering the bus down on the motor.

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:24 PM


Nearly there.

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:26 PM


You can see here what I did with the PCV hoses and how I plumbed them into the short section of pipe just before the throttle body

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:28 PM


And another view of the pipes

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:29 PM


Some pics of it in

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:30 PM


Sorry about the scratches on everthing Brad! :)

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:32 PM


The easy thing is the fuel lines are on the same side, and so is the brake booster vacuum.

Here you can see the fuel line and filter on the RH side.

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:34 PM


This shows of course the fuel line and pump.

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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 04:40 PM


So yeah it started and I ran it for about 1 minute. I still have to do all of the water hoses. The drive shafts and new clutch cable to be fitted. The only thing I have not investigated at this point in time is the throttle cable. I also have to put the rear crossmember in, but that can wait for a minute. I will also wrap all of the wiring loom properly and put convouluted tubing on it also.

So upshot of it all is. Yes it runs, but no I have not driven it yet. Cant wait though. It will definitley be a sleeper as it has a 2 inch exhaust exiting in the original spot.




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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 05:52 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Helbus
So yeah it started and I ran it for about 1 minute. I still have to do all of the water hoses. The drive shafts and new clutch cable to be fitted. The only thing I have not investigated at this point in time is the throttle cable. I also have to put the rear crossmember in, but that can wait for a minute. I will also wrap all of the wiring loom properly and put convouluted tubing on it also.

So upshot of it all is. Yes it runs, but no I have not driven it yet. Cant wait though. It will definitley be a sleeper as it has a 2 inch exhaust exiting in the original spot.


so given the fact you had a hoist....how hard do you think for the home mechanic...with advice from Brad....assuming a dose of common sense and tools....what would be the difference (sorry, not a subi-expert), if you used a 2.2 liberty engine. My wife's got a 2.5 Forester - but thats a quad cam. Are the parts available, or is that the same motor?....how many 'hours' do you think are in it so far....given your advice in the paint forum, I've managed to follow you and am happy with the result...figure follow in your wake...I love my microbus, but just wish it went like the Forester...




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posted on July 23rd, 2005 at 06:01 PM


The hoist definitley made a difference. I aam writing a school report for Brad, based on the fact I am not a mechanic or auto elec, but with the skills I have and the help from Brad, I have been able to achieve this. I think if you are of the level of being able to wire up a stereo system correctly and remove and refit mechanical things and make them work again, you shold be able to do it.

If those sorts of things hurt your head and you cannot do them, then maybe you would be wise to reconsider whether you would do this yourself.

I used no special tools at all. This could be done without a hoist, probably best on car ramps under the rear wheels. You will need a soldering iron.

I would say the DIY fitting of this motor would consume 60 hours if you want to do it all yourself without a hoist. Remembering that going out for a couple of hours a night a couple of nights a week that it will take over three months to do.

The quad cam engine may be a bit tighter to get in with the exhaust etc.




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posted on July 24th, 2005 at 10:26 PM


The motor is an EJ22. You must get the complete engine with exhaust flanges, complete wiring loom, computer, relays, igniter/ ignition thingy, induction system. I got my motor from a japanese wrecker for $1000 for a local motor from a 93 Liberty with 112,000 km on the clock. I changed the cambelt, spark plugs, oil filter and waterpump just as a precaution.

The bits I did not get with my motor, and I had to get afterwards were
- round type engine mounts, so good if you get a motor with these.
- igniter/ ignition thingy bolted to centre of the back of the engine bay
- main engine relay

All the modified and conversion bits I got it all from Custom Off Road. Everything else other than the filters, fuel pump, hoses, clamps, screws and second hand stuff that is.

I got my mechanic to do the cambelt for me, but he was too scared to anything else on the conversion. I don't understand why, because you can't really get it wrong, everything fits in.




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