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 crewcabconnection
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Being Sid James
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| posted on February 27th, 2006 at 10:24 PM |
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we get about that out our 2.5 Sube motor - but it's still in the Sube.
Loves a lolcat
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GeorgeL
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| posted on February 28th, 2006 at 01:48 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
| Quote: | Originally
posted by gull
how many ks you getting out of a tank of fuel & are you running stock ratios , seagull
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Speedo check shows 97kmh on checking device on bridge when speedo in vehicle shows 100kmh. I would therefore assume the odometer is pretty
accurate.
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Not always a good assumption. The speedometer is a completely different mechinism than the odometer after the cable enters the instrument. The
odometer can have considerably different calibration than the speedometer, especially if the instrument is somewhat aged. For example, my speedometer
reads about 15% high while my odometer is about 2% high.
Best deal is to check it against a GPS or well-measured road markers.
George
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GeorgeL
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| posted on February 28th, 2006 at 01:50 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by crewcabconnection
we get about that out our 2.5 Sube motor - but it's still in the Sube.
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Considering that the stock 2.0l gearbox has a 4th gear only 10% lower than the Subaru 5th gear, I would expect only a small drop in mileage when the
engine lives in the bus. The weights, at least empty, are very close too. Only the frontal area of a bus is greater.
George
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c_dreike
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| posted on March 3rd, 2006 at 03:08 PM |
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Howdy from California,
I have a 64DD camper bus that I would like to convert. The big question: Is it possible to install an EJ22 without cutting the sheet metal on either
side of the compartment where the engine seal fits? I have not seen a clear answer on any posting or web site. My engine compartment is 74cm from seal
flange to seal flange.
Thanks for answers.
Chris |
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 helbus
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| posted on March 3rd, 2006 at 03:29 PM |
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Our bus had a 1800 type 4 motor originally and there is no removal or cutting of any part of the bus whatsoever to fit the engine in. It could go back
to original if required.
The only cutting I did was to remove the heater tube under the bus to fit the radiator and fan underneath.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on March 3rd, 2006 at 07:44 PM |
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I just realised I haven't posted on this thread and let you know that I think you've done a great job with Helbus. Your conversion turned out real
nice and I'm sure you'll inspire some others out there.
And mine would be a great sleeper too, if it wasn't jacked up and didn't have hundreds of other mods 
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c_dreike
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| posted on March 4th, 2006 at 02:19 AM |
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Howdy from California once again.
Do you know if the type 4 engine is wider than the type 1?
thanks!
Chris |
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GeorgeL
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| posted on March 4th, 2006 at 05:54 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by c_dreike
Howdy from California once again.
Do you know if the type 4 engine is wider than the type 1?
thanks!
Chris
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I've had the same question. AFAIK, the ej22 will fit between the seal flanges on the front end, but the rear apron needs to be trimmed to clear the
cam belt housing. The DOHC housing seems to be larger than the SOHC housing.
This info is from similar conversions done to bugs and type 3s. I'm planning to put an EJ25 into my '71 and might end up having to trim some of the
engine bay metal to make it fit if the EJ25 is larger than the EJ22. I still haven't been able to get accurate numbers on the width of the EJ25 sohc
engine
George (in SoCal)
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GeorgeL
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| posted on March 7th, 2006 at 06:57 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
We all live in a Yellow Submarine, Yellow Submarine, Yellow Submarine.
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Questions for Peter:
In the early part of this thread you show a header tank that has two large tubes on the round end away from the filler. Later on, you show a tank
mounted in your bus that has an inlet on the bottom. Did you change the tank or am I just misinterpreting the photos?
Also, you used 4m of hose to plumb the radiator. Any particular reason to do the whole thing in hose or did you just want to avoid the fun of fabbing
metal lines?
George
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helbus
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| posted on March 7th, 2006 at 04:19 PM |
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The guy that made the header tank sort of misunderstood, so he changed the inlet to the bottom.
I did the whole lot in hose because it was easy as.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on April 3rd, 2006 at 06:53 AM |
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I need to bump this one to keep my inspiration level up!
Any ongoing progress reports on this project?
George
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helbus
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| posted on April 3rd, 2006 at 08:45 AM |
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Still going well and no problems seen yet. We clicked over 3000km since conversion the other weekend when we went drag racing at Heatcote.
The bus was driven there and drag raced as is with bullbar and all seats inside. Pulled a 17.83 at 75 mph. Still starts and runs smooth as ever.
Driving in 38 degree heat see's temp guage get to 100 on the highway. Will be looking at air scoop to change that. - Next hot season's job.
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jeremy
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| posted on April 3rd, 2006 at 09:37 PM |
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Just in case you have missed the praise from others, here it is from me.
"Love ya work and a great write-up."
:thumb
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GeorgeL
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 07:24 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
Still going well and no problems seen yet. We clicked over 3000km since conversion the other weekend when we went drag racing at Heatcote.
The bus was driven there and drag raced as is with bullbar and all seats inside. Pulled a 17.83 at 75 mph. Still starts and runs smooth as ever.
Driving in 38 degree heat see's temp guage get to 100 on the highway. Will be looking at air scoop to change that. - Next hot season's job.
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Happy to hear everything is going well!
I suspect that the upflow radiator doesn't get much ram-air flow from vehicle motion. A little scoop hanging down would help that without
compromising ground clearance too much.
The louvers on the housing might be a bit restrictive as well.
I'm working on a similar design, but with a downflow radiator arrangement mounted further aft and the frame members boxed in for an inlet duct.
If I were a wee bit closer I would be very interested in some of the Custom Off Road bits you used on your bus! Nice stuff, that.
George
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helbus
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 01:32 PM |
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The ram flow (higher pressure air) effect is the only one we seem to be missing. The hottest temp guage readings are at highway speeds, so that is a
good reason to create a scoop.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on April 5th, 2006 at 02:53 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
The ram flow (higher pressure air) effect is the only one we seem to be missing. The hottest temp guage readings are at highway speeds, so that is a
good reason to create a scoop.
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Absolutely! The thing may be called a "radiator", but it really functions via convection, which requires a flow of air. I'm surprised that it
works as well as it does with no ducting to speak of. How much does the fan run?
George
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helbus
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| posted on April 5th, 2006 at 11:06 AM |
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The fan comes on at just above 90 degrees, so it would be safe to assume it is on all the time on the highway. Around town it comes on briefly
hovering between 85-92ish degrees on a hot day, or not all on a cooler day.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on April 6th, 2006 at 05:00 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
The fan comes on at just above 90 degrees, so it would be safe to assume it is on all the time on the highway. Around town it comes on briefly
hovering between 85-92ish degrees on a hot day, or not all on a cooler day.
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Yeah, having the fan on all the time isn't the situation you want, Ideally, the fan should only come on when the vehicle is moving slowly, like in
city traffic as it is not really made for continuous use. You also have a sitaution where a fan failure will leave you overheated on the highway.
A modern water cooled engine should come up to temperature and then stay at that temperature regardless of outside air conditions. If your temps are
rising in warm conditions it means that you are exceeding the capabilities of your cooling system.
I like the design and workmanship of the Off Road radiator shroud, but I think that it would be more effective with the following changes:
1. Switch the fan to downflow
2. Move the radiator back on the frame, to just forward of the rear crossmember.
3. Box in the forward frame rails to create an air duct, with a scoop at the forward end just aft of the front axle.
4. Enlarge the louvers on the radiator mount for more airflow, and reverse them to point aft for the downflow arrangement.
With this arrangement, the air will enter the duct just aft of the front axle and pass down the frame duct, slowing down in the process. Less speed
means more pressure which will force the air downward through the radiator toward the slipstream (low pressure) side.
Since your installation is already complete, my changes would be a bit difficult to impliment. I'd try a scoop first, along with increasing the
louver size. Making the frame into a duct aft of the radiator might also help prevent recirculation.
Keep in mind that I haven't done this, but I do have experience in aircraft engineering which involves a lot of work in making air go places it
doesn't want to go. My cooling design is starting with the largest radiator I can find (from a 7.4l Chevy pickup) because I know that I am starting
at an engineering disadvantage compared to the OEM radiator designers. This is probably overkill, but since I have lots of room under the bus, I
figure I might as well use it to advantage.
George
[ Edited on Jul 06, 2006 by GeorgeL ]
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helbus
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| posted on April 21st, 2006 at 07:39 PM |
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Makes a lot of sense.
There are no body mods to fit the cooling system at this stage, so it can be modified later.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on May 1st, 2006 at 12:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
Makes a lot of sense.
There are no body mods to fit the cooling system at this stage, so it can be modified later.
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That's wise. I'm trying for the "minimal cut" installation as well on my '71.
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oval TOFU
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Bitte, ein Bit!
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| posted on May 1st, 2006 at 12:25 PM |
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Great read and fantastic job Pete! You should be very proud...
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Leesvw
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| posted on July 4th, 2006 at 03:22 PM |
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So.. by looking at the dates of this thread.. I've noticed that the posts are a few months old and I was wondering how the conversion has stood up..
Any problems to speek of???
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helbus
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| posted on July 4th, 2006 at 11:38 PM |
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Goin' fine. Hit the key and starts instantly. Running fine, no probs at all so far. Just need to get a heater fitted as it is really cold.
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Leesvw
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 09:55 AM |
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So I'm pricing everything and trying to figure out how to do this conversion to my 63 bus. The only hangup that I have had is the radiator problem. I
see how you mounted yours but I remember you saying that you were haveing problems on the highway. I also live in Los Angeles and the temp gets well
over 100 degrees. What do you think about that?? Do you think I can pull it off with the same radiator configuration that you have? Did you change
anything? Oh and I'm going to use the 2.5 motor. Let me know what you think..
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GeorgeL
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 01:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Leesvw
So I'm pricing everything and trying to figure out how to do this conversion to my 63 bus. The only hangup that I have had is the radiator problem. I
see how you mounted yours but I remember you saying that you were haveing problems on the highway. I also live in Los Angeles and the temp gets well
over 100 degrees. What do you think about that?? Do you think I can pull it off with the same radiator configuration that you have? Did you change
anything? Oh and I'm going to use the 2.5 motor. Let me know what you think..
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I don't think that what he has is all that much of a problem, as the engine never overheats. The only difficulty is that the fan runs at cruise,
which introduces a failure mode that isn't really desirable. I think that the airflow can be improved with some minor tweaks in the design, but if I
had a running conversion and the weather was relatively cool i would probably rather drive it than fiddle with it!
I sent you a U2U.
George
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helbus
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 06:38 PM |
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You are right there George. The fan comes on at 90 degrees and on the highway the temp guage sits on 95 degrees in cool weather and 100 in hot
weather. Even on a 40 degree day (100 plus in Farenheit) it doesn't boil and dump its guts. The issue is the fan running continuously. We are just
spending more time driving it than me making an aluminium shroud and testing it's effectivness. I belive a revised shroud would be 90% of the
solution, as a lot of vehicles run radiators underneath.
Our biggest concern in this cold weather is no heater. 
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Leesvw
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 10:12 PM |
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I was thinking about your no heater problem last night and started looking for AC/Heat options. Hot rod air has units available and I even found some
on jcwhitny. I'm sure there are some good options out there.
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Leesvw
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| posted on July 6th, 2006 at 10:22 PM |
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| Quote: |
I don't think that what he has is all that much of a problem, as the engine never overheats. The only difficulty is that the fan runs at cruise,
which introduces a failure mode that isn't really desirable. I think that the airflow can be improved with some minor tweaks in the design, but if I
had a running conversion and the weather was relatively cool i would probably rather drive it than fiddle with it!
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I can understand that. I got your u2u but it won't let me send one back because I haven't put up enough posts. I also live in canyon country :P I
sent an e-mail to the address you sent let me know if you get it.
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GeorgeL
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| posted on July 7th, 2006 at 06:19 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Leesvw
I can understand that. I got your u2u but it won't let me send one back because I haven't put up enough posts. I also live in canyon country :P I
sent an e-mail to the address you sent let me know if you get it.
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Dang, small world! I got the email, I'll give you a ring when I get some time to talk.
George
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Leesvw
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| posted on July 7th, 2006 at 08:32 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Helbus
One more post Lee and you will have U2U
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Done!!!!
Yeah small world. I can't wait to compare notes, I'm drooling all over this idea.. my wife is a little sick of it about now. If I only had the
cash....
Hey hellbus.. I'm considering putting my radiator up front right behind the beam and infront of the cross support. The location will allow me to keep
the heater tube with little trimming, and should allow me to fabricate a fairly large scoop for the radiator. I have a walk through so there is a lot
of room above this location for air flow. Cables and crap run through there too but with the mockup that I made I have plenty of room The radiator
will be able to be 26 inches wide and 12 tall.. laying horazontal of course. The front beam will help protect the radiator from anything crazy that
might run into it. Air ducting would start just before the front beam and concentrate air from a long thin scoop down to a wide and deep air channel.
I'm hoping this will work. A custom radiator manufacturer suggested that a minimum of 400 square inches is needed to cool without direct air flow.
I'm at about 325 but I will be getting good airflow so I think it will work. Let me know what you think..
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