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 andytlr
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 12:01 PM |
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Two questions
I've got two questions, hope someone can help, don't think they are too hard.
Sometimes when I try and turn my car on I get no response at all, doesn't even try and turn over. Usually when I try again straight away it works, or
often I will turn the stereo off which makes it work. Although I don't know if turning the stereo off is the problem or if it would just have worked
anyway. Could this be a problem with the battery or the starter motor? This was happening more when I first got the car, but that was because the
battery ground connector wasn't tight so it was loosing a connection. Could it just be a crap batter?
This might sound a little naive, but although I can drive a manual car, it's the first one I have owned and by far the oldest one I have driven.
Sometimes when I try and shift into second to engine break and/or to go around the corner, it seems to not want to let me in. Kind of like the lock on
first so you don't go in when your going to fast. When I'm going about 15miles or slower it lets me into second no problem but sometimes and only
sometimes if I'm going over that it doesn't really want to know about it. Could this be a problem with the sincromesh or something else, or is it
possibly just a beetle thing?
Thanks in advance. |
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stevosky
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 12:21 PM |
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Could be just a faulty ignition switch
Steve
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BiX
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 12:49 PM |
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double de clutch, and 2 will go in no problems
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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andytlr
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 01:43 PM |
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do you mean put the clutch in to come out of third, put it in neutral then pull the clutch out then in again? |
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boersch
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 01:51 PM |
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when shifting down 3>2 push it up as if to go into 1st then go down to 2nd. don't do this if you have a non-syncro 1st
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 01:52 PM |
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Yeah that's it - let out the clutch between gears, apparently some part of the box can get to speed that way. There're posts on here about this,
but the povvo search engine might be tricky to get results from (can it do 'AND' kind of things?).
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karmen
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 01:59 PM |
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1 check your wiring to the starter & ign if loose it may anly get hot and not send enough volume. Also Battery leads must be tight and clean -co
corrosion of green & white muck etc.
2
double clutching is a way back thing but while in neutral (split second after practise) you may also revv up the engine a bitty to a get them gears to
mesch.
When ur really good you can drive the car without clutchin !
basically ur 2nd synchro is worn abit
Karmen
56 oval resto 60 Cal KG
58 & 62 beetle parting. 74 panel parting
63 Baja 80 GLD parting
58 donor split 11 window 63 Splitty sgle cab /son's
96 Seat Cordoba GLX daily drvr.
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DIY-DUB
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 02:40 PM |
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im with karmen on the gears thing  the rev between 3rd n 2nd works gr8,
just dont do it on a steep hill goin 2 stop @ a red light, lol, i was wondering about this type stuff aswell, dont have to ask anymore
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BiX
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| posted on June 3rd, 2005 at 03:05 PM |
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By double decluthing you spin up the input shaft. basically when you are down shifting your input shaft is say doing 1500rpm in third, and when you go
to second it needs to be spinning at say 300orpm. Nornally your synchro will match both shaft speeds and allow the gears to mesh nicely, but if they
are warn, the gears try to mesh, while one is doing 1500rpm and the other 3000rpm.............
so the procedure for a double de clutch (well as i do it anyway)
1- Clutch
2- Into neutral from third
3- Clutch out and a blip of the throttle ( I heel and toe, as iam normally braking)
4- Clutch in
5- Into 3rd
6clutch out and match revs
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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andytlr
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| posted on June 4th, 2005 at 01:53 PM |
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Will try it all out. Thanks. |
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DIY-DUB
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| posted on June 5th, 2005 at 11:11 PM |
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hey bix it takes longer to read or say then it does to do
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lost
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| posted on June 5th, 2005 at 11:45 PM |
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Check your battery connections, posts and starter etc, you might have a loose one or the one you tightened on the battery might have some crap
muckking up the connection.
Now to put the cat amongst the pigeons...engine braking went out with cross ply tyres and vacuum wipers.
It is a long story but to sum it up, each time you engage the clutch it wears a little bit and unless you match the revs to the speed of the gearbox
you will be slipping the clutch increasing and creating unneccasary clutch wear. It is easier and better to use the brakes to slow the vehicle down
and wear them out insted. They are also designed to be much easier to replacethan clutches.
That doesn't mean that engine braking isn't fun though, it is just not the correct way to drive!
Wally.
are we there yet?
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andytlr
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 12:05 AM |
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Fair enough. I tought myself to drive manual so no one ever really told me that sort of stuff. Although I'm sure a lot of people still do engine
brake. BUT, point taken.
I guess the point is, when your slowing down you still need to gear down, its just a matter of going in at the right speed.
And I drove the car a lot today and didn't have any problem with second, I think I have naturally started pushing it up a little before pulling it
into second instead of trying to pull it straight from third to second. |
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BiX
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 09:15 AM |
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Well when i had some lessons, my instructor kept having a go at me for engine braking. the new way to drive is brake until the car just stall's and
then clutch in....
But i learnt to drive in desiel 4wds so engine braking was how it was done. I also use alot of engine braking on teh track (combined with brakes), so
thats the way i drive, and the way i will always drive. I know i will kill the cluthc sooner, but thats the price i pay. I also run -2.5deg front
chamber and kill tires in under 15k, but i jsut buy some more........
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 10:05 PM |
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Sounds like an ignition switch to me. Had the same problem. Sometimes nothing would happen.
If there's a problem with battery connectors etc this is the way I tell. Look at the brightness of your generator/oil lights. Try cranking. If the
lights dimmed, it may be a high amperage problem, like battery connectors. If it doesn't dim, it's probably ignition switch/wiring.
My van is a pig for this. I'd go to start it, and all that would happen is the gauge lights would dim right down and take a little while to recover.
It'd take me ages of stuffing round to get the terminals to get a good enough connection.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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andytlr
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| posted on June 6th, 2005 at 11:07 PM |
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The gen/oil lights are always bright and the battery connectors are clean. So I guess it is probably the ignition switch or wiring. But it happens
rarely so I'm not to fussed at the moment, just wanted to work it out.
Thanks |
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