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Author: Subject: Type3 auto into an early Beetle
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posted on March 20th, 2012 at 06:49 PM



Thanks Gary

Some great info there




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posted on August 21st, 2012 at 07:22 AM



Hi guys.
I signed up last night and wrote a big long post on here about your conversion, which I believe is awesome by the way, however it didn't seem topmost. Maybe it was too long?
Anyway, in short, I did the same conversion about 30 years ago when I was about 19 years old. My conversion didn't quite have the finish of yours unfortunately, but worked very well none the less.
What I really like about the way you did yours was the mounting bracket and the widened tuning forks.
With mine, my conversion to IRS was done without a jig or similar, and I just used a spirit level on the wheels until I had the camber I wanted, and then welded the brackets in place, and the engine mount, being an overhead mount, was a piece of tube fitted to the bodywork and bolted with plates either side of the inner wheel wells. Then another piece of tube welded from the outer plate to the shocky tower. I removed the tuning forks altogether. That gas axe and grinder was working overtime on mine.
Where you cut the square access hole behind the seat, I just removed the whole panel, which wasn't very good for sound proofing, but I was more about street racing in Newcastle back in the day, so a bit of noise didn't bother me, and at 19 years old, neither did the smells from a hot engine or the fear of fire. We did some silly things back then.
I often wonder if my old brown bug is still out there. It was distinctive as I had wheels with a very large offset and I wasn't a fan of fiberglass flared front guards so I cut the front guards off just in from where they bolt to the bodywork and moved the whole guard out 2". This gave it a very wide look as the headlights were wider by 4" as well because of the technique. I used fiberglass flared rear guards, although I still had to increase the flare to cover the rear wheels. The technique used on the front was much handed on the back due to the angle the guard meets the bodywork on the rear guards.
Anyway, I just wanted to say I really like your work. The box mount in particular is a great design. Unfortunately taking lots of pictures wanted a priority to a young guy who was more interested in racing than anything else, and FaceTime meant actually standing in front of someone in 1982, text was written in books and forums was where people gathered. I might have one front one pic I took at work if your interested in the low wide look of the front guards however.
I now work as an engineering teacher working with FSAE Uni students in the CAD/CAM/CNC, teaching them how to design race parts for manufacture and not just cool looking, but impractical 3D models.
Greig
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posted on August 21st, 2012 at 07:47 AM



Here's a question for you about your conversion.
Did you find it would sometimes have trouble deciding which gear to select.
I knew very little about auto's back when I did mine, and it would hunt gears around 60kph which was painful around town. I played wi vacuum lines etc but it still wasn't perfect. As I got older I had more understanding but it's always bugged me that I never sorted it completely.
It finally dumped a heap of trans fluid one day, and I was told by an "expert" it was because they trans was weak and couldn't handle the power of the engines I was running. I sold the car after that and after spending thousands of dollars on my obsession, and bought a Z1 Kawasaki, moved to QLD not long after and haven't owned a dak dak since.
Originally I had built a beach buggy when I was 13, and bought an engine off a guy called Wes Shadlow. He had a backyard VW business in Kurri Kurri and raced off road buggies with a guy called Neil. Their buggy was called Shadrock. I remember as a young guy in the late 70's going their with my dad and seeing Karmann Ghia's and the like and really falling in love with VW's. He had bought a Kombi at one stage that had a turbo corvair flat six that he and Neil had bought for the engine. They were going to put it in a buggy.
After a few years of playing with my buggy and amassing heaps of parts, it was a natural progression to build a VW as my first road car. I bought the car I eventually converted to auto from a guy who had just built a really tough 1835cc through Wes which was a rocket. I went through 4 engines, 7 diffs and a gearbox before going to the auto........lol........ I was always working on it. I could finish work on a Friday afternoon, come home, drop the engine, swap out the trans, engine back in and out racing someone that night. We had an A-frame that I would run a sling under the rear bumper mounts, drop the engine, then using a wire pulley on the sling, lift the rear of the car to get the engine out. Those were the days!!!
Anyway, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. You've done an amazing job!!!!...... Racing it brought back some great memories. Thanks for that.
Greig
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posted on August 21st, 2012 at 09:34 AM



Sorry about some of the spelling or strange sentences. I was using my Ipad which obviously has spell check turned on.....doh
I'll stick with the laptop in future.
Greig
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posted on August 21st, 2012 at 10:56 AM



Yes Greg,a very long post. I had the auto fully overhauled with the main pump pressure boosted. It has never had any gear change issues when driven as an auto. I sometimes have issues when driving it manually at the drags- I hit the rev limiter about the same time as I shift it,it then has trouble shifting up. I tried to build it so that it resembled a standard car- so the body could be lifted if needed like a standard Beetle. It has proved to be strong enough because I have belted it many times at the drags with no faults appearing. It's an absolute pleasure to drive with power the engine puts out. Stop light starts are awesome.
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posted on August 22nd, 2012 at 10:46 PM



What engine are you running?
The conversion I did was from a station wagon. Is there much difference between kombi's and the wagon style auto? I'm thinking seriously about doing another VW. I've looked at a couple of different projects and had thought about doing a clubman, but I really like the idea of a low, chop top, auto VW with a mild engine to start with and and something hotter later on. I think I'd like to run nitrous later for the occasional run down the strip. Our street tyred but stretched swing arm Hayabusa ran 8.23 with a dry shot( about 90hp), and I'm a bit of a nitrous fan.
What trans would you recommend to run and what stall can you achieve with a modified converter.
Do you know if you can modify the valve body to run a transbrake?

Greig
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posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 06:26 AM



Good day Greig-I have a fuel injected 2.7 lt Type 4 in the Oval with a Type3 auto. The Type3 use an alloy diff housing with a 003 auto.Kombis had cast iron diff housings with 003 and 010 autos. The 003 auto will do fine for any street car with a fairly stout engine. The 010 auto has larger diameter clutch packs and 4 gears in the gear set instead of 3 in the 003. The 010 can be built to handle really big horsepower engines. From memory my Oval has a 3.23 final drive and my Drag car with the 010 auto is 4.3 with much larger gear set.
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posted on March 28th, 2014 at 12:17 PM



Unbelievable-still driving it,still Drag Racing it and still having issues with the Haltec ECU.Still haven't had to do anything to it as far as adjustments/modifying/bending or any failures.Have changed the engine oil and filter a couple of times and it still drives like a dream.
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posted on September 19th, 2014 at 05:25 PM



great to hear these conversions working out
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posted on March 16th, 2016 at 01:22 PM



Been giving it plenty of seat time lately-in fact it's the daily driver for a while-it is still awesome to drive.Bought some new wheels for it after 8 years.Went from a 17x7 to a 17x7.5 up front(can still use same tyres- 225/45) and went from 17x8 to a 19x8.5 (255/40) at the back.Really upped the final drive gearing with the new wheels.

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posted on October 9th, 2019 at 04:32 PM



Can't believe it's been about 14 years since I started this.I have always had trouble starting it.I used to isolate the battery when it was not being used.Reckon that was causing trouble with the ECU losing something.I now never isolate it,but use a trickle charger.It starts way better,but sometimes still does a lock up while cranking.The Bloke who sorted my Drag Car reckons he can fix it.I am using a Hall Effect dizzy which is the size of a 009.He thinks that it is shooting a spark back to the next post while its coming up to the correct one which it will fire up.He is 2 hours away,and I haven't got it there yet.Bought an Oval horn button clock for it and just fitted it.Good quality.

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