| [ Total Views: 1428 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 42668 ] |
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 Chewy
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| posted on August 10th, 2005 at 10:43 PM |
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How to treat metal after rust repair
Hey, just got a new welder (uni mig 120) started welding in new panels.
Was wondering what is the best way to treat freshly welded in metal.
Ie, fillers, primers, topcoat etc
Also what is the best way to protect the backside of freshly welded panels that you cannot get too?
Spray fish oil/wax in there?
Any adive appreciated
Cheers
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Sandy
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 09:01 AM |
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To rustproof my car I went to super crap and bought one of those degreaser spray guns. They come with a flexible hose that you can just plop in the
fish oil or whatever and spray away. The pressure of the compressed air forces the rustproofing way up inside the panels to nooks & crannies that you
normally can't get to. Have to wear some sort of respirator though, 'cause the fumes are horrid.
As for paint on the outside, if it was mine I'd just slap some bog on if it needed it, then prime and paint as normal, but I'm no expert. Anyone
else??
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 vw54
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 10:23 AM |
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After welding and grinding wipe or brush some rust converter onto each area to stop the going any futher.
this will hold each area untill your ready to start filling with body bog
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Chewy
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 11:01 AM |
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Sandy, thats exactly what I was thinking of doing,I have one of those red degreaser guns you fill with kero, stick a hose on the solid end of it and
should be able to get in almost anywhere.
I only plan to use bog on a couple of spots around the car, can you bog over the rust converter or does it have to be on bare metal?
Should I use fibreglass bog or plastic bog?
etch primer??
give me details people I havnt really got a clue
Cheers
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vw54
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 11:11 AM |
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when yr ready to bog.... give the areas a light grind and degrease with some thinners
dont use fibreglass
use etch primers after you have all the bog sanded and the surface is ready to paint and u might have gone back to bare metal in a few places.
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Che Castro
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| posted on August 11th, 2005 at 12:59 PM |
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Body filler should be going on bare metal that has been sanded with something relatively coarse so it will stick properly. Remember it is porous so
keep it dry. There is a bit of debate over rust converter, as if you have cut and shut all the rust out you probably dont need it.
Another solution for the insides is to get an underbody spray gun, they usually come with a long tube with a tip on the end that attaches to the gun
as well as a regular nozzle. You can feed it with cavity wax and you can get it in all kinds of nooks and crannies. Obviously you can also spray car
underbody too with it (the thick black rubbery stuff) as it is way too thick to go through a normal gun.
Jon
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Chewy
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 06:18 PM |
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How does this sound?
Seam sealer over welds
then Zinc primer
then Etch primer
then top coat??nn[ Edited on 16-8-2005 by Chewy ]
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pyr0
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 06:32 PM |
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why seam sealer ?
*wire brush the welds then grind smooth
*personally id go for the deoxidiser (yes i know the rust has been cut already, but this also prevents it startin)
*then 2k etch primer
*then use filler if you have to (this way the filler is going to be between etch and high fill so theres no was rust will get under it)
*the primer filler or high fill if required.
*then paint 
hope this helps
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
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