| [ Total Views: 648 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 43249 ] |
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 bobupp
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| posted on August 28th, 2005 at 08:22 PM |
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Oil leak - best solution is .....
In my 71 beetle, there seems to be a consistent drip from the sump plug and some of the little bolts that hold the strainer thingy in (I think). Apart
from overtightening the bolts, any other suggestions??
Always Learning!!
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vern74
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| posted on August 28th, 2005 at 08:25 PM |
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A new gasket would be a good place to start !
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Grey 57
A.k.a.: Dean
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| posted on August 28th, 2005 at 08:51 PM |
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Replace the nuts (open style) with dome nuts. (closed on the end) Oil will find its way down the threads of these studs. Dome nuts close the thread
off.
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76camper
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| posted on August 28th, 2005 at 09:11 PM |
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maybe silicone or some sealant on the threads?
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BiX
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| posted on August 29th, 2005 at 04:02 PM |
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new gasket and use the brass washers on the studs with closed nuts. mkae sure the sump plate is flat also. nn[ Edited on 29-8-2005 by BiX ]
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on September 1st, 2005 at 01:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Grey 57
Replace the nuts (open style) with dome nuts. (closed on the end) Oil will find its way down the threads of these studs. Dome nuts close the thread
off.
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Ding! Ah! (lighbulb moment for me...)
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Che Castro
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on September 1st, 2005 at 05:00 PM |
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Don't overtighten the nuts that hold the sump plate in. They are supposed to be 5ft/lbs. A lot of people overtighten them and it tends to strip the
soft magnesium threads out of the case which leads to more leaks, also I have had a sump plate that was distorted slightly which caused leaks - I
suspect the distortion was from overtightening. when you are tightening the sump plate, alternate sides as you tighten each nut.
What I did to fix this was get another sump plate that wasnt distorted, I checked that it was more or less flat along the contact area. new copper
washers on all the acorn nuts and the sump, new gaskets and it hasn't leaked really for a while. Don't really need to use silicon but if you do,
make sure it is the type that stays pliable and soft and is suitable for exposure to heat.
Jon
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ACE_76
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| posted on September 1st, 2005 at 06:02 PM |
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I wouldn't put silicone on. If it gets into the dome nuts, could cause leaks next time? Also won't adhere easily to an oily case bottom... And if
it does it will be really hard to clean off in future.
The dome nuts can cause a leak if the studs are slightly too long (eg. thru being replaced or loose) as the closed end will hit stud before the Cu
gasket is snug. Check all studs stick out of case the same length, and if one sticks out a bit more, turn it in -- by hand. If one sticks out more
and can't be turned in, use 2 (or even 3) Cu gaskets (under dome nut) on that one.
Overtightening the nut might cause the stud comes out next time when trying to undo!
The best way to combat leaks other than the above is to use wheel bearing grease as the sealant. This should have a high enough melting point to stay
in place, but cleans off easily next time. Can put on the theards of each stud, or smear on each surface to be sealed. |
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Grey 57
A.k.a.: Dean
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| posted on September 1st, 2005 at 09:45 PM |
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Good points Ace on the depth of the dome nuts.
I wouldnt let silicon near any VW motor. Gasket cement or VW case glue only for me. 
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 2nd, 2005 at 07:22 PM |
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That sticky Permatex brown goop stuff seals it all well
Pay your debts, CxxT
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76camper
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| posted on September 3rd, 2005 at 08:49 PM |
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| Quote: |
I wouldnt let silicon near any VW motor. Gasket cement or VW case glue only for me
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fair enough, i was refering to this black silicone like glue. Dries super strong but super flexible and withstand really high temps.
Your right, it wont stick to an oil surface... like most glues.
your best bet is just a new gasket and maybe a bit of sealer of ur choice.
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plough
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| posted on September 4th, 2005 at 08:52 AM |
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I had this same problem with my notchback, until i brought a new gasket kit from local volks guy (gaskets & brass washers for all bolts) and thats now
fixed the problem. I replace them every oil change now as it only costs round $5.
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kevo
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| posted on September 8th, 2005 at 06:09 PM |
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ALWAYS HAVIN THE SAME PROBLEMON MY 76 BUS, ENGINES BEEN OUT SO MANY TIMES NOW,
AAAAAAAAHHHHHH f**K IT I JUST KEEP TOPPING THE OIL UP
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
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Robo
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| posted on September 8th, 2005 at 08:23 PM |
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Yeah ya shouldn't have to use any sealant at all, new gaskets and washers. Thats all I use on my 56 and she is oil tight, no drips.
Rob....
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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