| [ Total Views: 609 | Total Replies: 6 | Thread Id: 44799 ] |
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 morris_53
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| posted on October 15th, 2005 at 03:30 AM |
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help with enamel paint
Hi
My car was recently sprayed with enamel. However, I was called the day after the paint went on and told that it hadn't worked out very well. This
proved the understatement of the century. My poodle could have done a better job if I'd given him a paintbrush.
However, I am determined to drive the car (in public!) so I've started cutting back the paint. This works quite well, but the paint really loses its
shine. What can I do?
The paint exemplifies the 'orange peel' effect- it is really bad, like there was a serious paint reaction, or silicone reaction.
Any suggestions will be very very welcome.
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bugeyedbabe
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Wheres her VW heart on her sleeve
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| posted on October 15th, 2005 at 07:10 AM |
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talk to dasdubber...
i think when he did his job he had same problem...not sure how he retyfied it...will look at his link though...
ok i was right...
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewthread.php?tid=21201&page=14
try that link..on my puter its page 14 half way down. Das did the car himself, and he suffered orange peel. He hit it with sanding paper, and then
cutting compounds and swirl remover....g3 and g4... check the thread...u acn see what happened at those stages...and his car came up great.
most people will tell u his car sits as one fo the best examples in aust restos
go check it out...
so yes, with some work u can get it all looking nice urself.
BUt as per advice above...if u paid for the work to be done, get them to fix it.
oh, and if ur pages are different to mne, then ur looking for the work he did to his car aust day this year.
[ Edited on 14-10-2005 by bugeyedbabe ]
dubless. 
 And who the helled parked the Mitsubishi "Prancer" under my
house??? |
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TY1ON
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| posted on October 15th, 2005 at 07:48 PM |
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Silicone contamination will be like a crator down to the under coat,orange peel however is just a bad application of paint and if the paint is thick
enough you can use a rubber block and 1200 wet papper lightly cut it back with this then use 2000 wet with the block and then you could even go down
to 4000 then buff,this is very time consuming,be very carefull VW's have alot of curved surfaces you dont want to rub through your paint.hope this
helps other than that block it back with 1200 and give it a good thick coat of clear.Oh by the way when you say enamel do you mean two pac or the old
school enamel?
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on October 15th, 2005 at 08:59 PM |
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i used old school enamel on my bug , had the orange peel effect so i let it sit for a whille then rubbed it back with 1200 and used hand buffing
compound then polished it after
she dont look to bad does she
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TY1ON
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| posted on October 16th, 2005 at 04:50 PM |
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It dose look good,if you wanted more gloss you could hit it with the buff but then it might look to glossy and les original.Very nice original looking
VW i like it.
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morris_53
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| posted on October 22nd, 2005 at 03:12 PM |
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Cheers everyone, I think I'll spend my holidays sanding the car back with 1200, then the 2000 as recommended. Is there somewhere you can get the
paper to suit an electric sander?
About the clear coat, he's been done in old school enamel, and I've been told that a good clear coat to use is varnish. Is this true?
Who does good quality spraying in Perth?
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pyr0
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| posted on October 22nd, 2005 at 03:18 PM |
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dunno about the varnish mate.
as for the electric forget it you have to do it by hand  this way you wont
rub through or leave bad scratch or swirls in it with the paper.
use the soft rubber block (usually black and red) this way you can even do the curved sections, this will also ensure you dont leave finger marks in
it :thumb
hop that helps
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
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