| [ Total Views: 610 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 45851 ] |
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 fishysauce
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| posted on November 11th, 2005 at 10:50 AM |
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respray the same color for bug
Hi all i want to do a respray of the same color for my bug but this is the first time i will be doing it can someone tell me what i have to get and
how to do it...thanks
Fish:jesus
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 vw54
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| posted on November 11th, 2005 at 12:27 PM |
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What the year of the car
and whats the approximate colour ??
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fishysauce
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| posted on November 11th, 2005 at 11:58 PM |
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year 62 and it matt black at the moment...thanks
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vw54
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| posted on November 17th, 2005 at 07:33 AM |
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So i have the colour chips for this year what colour do you want to spray it ???
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on November 17th, 2005 at 11:56 AM |
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Have a look through the "Painting of a Beetle" thread stuck to the top of the "paint & Body" forum and you will hopefully learn a lot. The actual
colour, well that is entirley up to you. there is a bugselecta program that you can use to see what your bug will look like in different guises that
may also help.
Ring your local Tafe College and see if you can do a spraypainting night course and do your beetle as part of it. Then you will learn it all.
Check all that out first, and when you have stripped your car down and it comes time to paint, then get some pics up and we can take it from there.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on November 17th, 2005 at 12:19 PM |
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Why can't you share your techniques and tips with the rest of us so we can all learn a thing or two Louis?
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on November 17th, 2005 at 12:24 PM |
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Regardless of paint colour, as I mentioned to you in your U2U, trying to explain the paint process is quite difficult - after all there are books
written on the subject, not to mention a lot of hands on involved to explain particular intricacies like gun angle, pattern, results of right and
wrong gun pressures etc etc etc.
I am by no means an expert nor ever claim to be, but I learned how to repair rust (correctly), panel beat (shrinking etc), prep and paint my Beetle
from start to finish (although had to blasted, didn't do the stripping). It took me about 8 months of weekends and 'after work' work to get it done
but that was taking my time. It is by no means perfect but I am very happy with the result. Below is a cut and pasted section from thesamba.com in the
body section from chillkoot to touch on the subject:
SAFETY!!!! RESPIRATORS>>> NIOSH approved Only!! some of this stuff is CYONIDE !!! dont be scared.. just be SAFE!!
Environment.. Paint both.. garage what ever.. CLEAN IT>> the cleaner.. the less stuff in the paint you dont want.. also TURN OFF ANY fire or pilot
lights
OK... first off we are going to talk about the materials needed. Remember this is for paint not body work, lets assume that we are working a NOS door
shell needing no filler work.
Prep materials:
sanding
120 Grit paper wet dry..(all sand paper is wet or dry in the paint process)
300 grit
600/800 grit..(i perfer 800 but I am a lil anal.. 600 is just fine.)
GREY Scotch brite pads...(NOT RED!!!)
MASKING PRODUCTS
Masking type.. low tack automotive grade.. not normal walmart stuff, solvents in todays paint brake down normal masking tap. 3/4" and 2" assortment.
roll of masking paper... NEWSpaper can be used double or tripled up.. but does increase the chances of lint in the finished product.
PAINT...
ok first off.. brand.. thats up to you. I am familiar with VALSPAR/HOK, PPG, Dupont and Standox (current system at work..) also.. you need to decide
what your top coat is going to be.. whether it be Single stage Enamel ( one 2-3 coat and finshed with no clear..) or a base coat./.(color pigment
only)/ clear coat (adds shine and depth.. to base coat.) (from now on base coat/ clear coat will be known as BC/CC..) in acrylic all the way to the
top of the line polyurethane....
so you need to figure out what kind of paint you need,want, or can afford.. and with product line information.. post a question..
BASICS Paint PRODUCT NEEDS..
Etching primer.. (this chemically bonds to bare metal and can be applied over filler..
Primer Filler/ high build primer... (a sandable primer that fills in sand scratches..)
primer sealer... seals outside environment out...
and your choice of top coat.
also, make sure you have the right reducers, and catalist for the above mentioned paints/ primers, for the TEMPERATURE the you will be spraying in.
TOOLS....
Soft foam block.. (3-4 dollars at your jobber)
DA sander.. Air preferred.. porter cable one you can get at homedepot is a good electric one..
Razor blades
PAINT GUN/S... wow now this is a hard one.. you like what ya like.. I prefer SATA for production work, Iwata for perfection work.. but both a VERY
spendy for someone who paints 3-4 cars in their life time... SHARPE you can buy at home depot and lowes ... good gun for the $$.. also, the Devillbis
finsh line series is a great beginner gun.. make sure you have the tips sizes for the different product
Random stuff from the Jobber store..
Paint strainer, paint stirers, Tack rag, lint free whipes, WAX and gease remover. guide coat and PRODUCT SHEETS!!!! READ THEM they give flash time,
tie coat time.. all information you need...
steal some joy from the kitchen...
PAINT PROCESS
lets assume that we are starting with a BARE door shell. We need to make sure that there is proper adhesion of the first step of paint. to do this you
sand at about a 25-30* angle in a cross hatch pattern. after this step we need to wash the piece you are working on. wash.. now we bust out the wax
and grease remover..(this will be a very reaccuring theme..) i use a whipe on whipe off much like Mr. Miagi.. soak one of the lint free cloths with
the remover and leave on dry.. and bust it clean... IF NOT you WILL GET FISH EYES... big no no.. then you get to see my FAQ fixing paint mistakes that
I am going to write later.... the mix up some of the etching primer with the proper reducers, and spray that puppy... but how you ask.. ok well.. most
paint use whats called a 50% overlap.. that mean with each pass you go over the last pass 50%... maintaining what is called a wet edge. Adjusting your
gun.. I am going to take some pics and show that one later too.... play enough you can figure it out.. two coats with proper FLASH TIME.. ( the tme it
takes the paints solvent to escape..) or you will get runs... and get to see the FAQ fixing paint mess ups..
ok .. we got the pannel all in etching primer..(hey ya painted something!! good for you.. ) the next step is to apply the primer filler.. this stuff
is THICK!! (IMO nothing beats PPG k-36 or k-38...) ok. apply as mentioned above.. when your done.. aplly the guide coat. I doesnt need to be heavy
just enough to see a lil bit.. AKA fog coat.. now comes sanding.. WET sanding.. ok. cut the 300 G sand paper and fold it around the soft block. keep
the surface wet and sand in the cross hatch motion at 30* or so with a 5-6" stroke. do this till ALL of the guide coat is gone.. IF not you are going
to leave a visable ring if there is body work in the substraight.. (painters call em ASSHOLES... 'cuase it makes ya feel like one when you spend all
this time getting the car ready to paint.. you waste material and time painting.. and you get a ASSHOLE that you have to go back and repair.....)
Follow up with a second guide coat and 600-800 in the same way as above.. Guaranteed no assholes...
TIP!!! If you have time let the repair sit for 2-3 weeks after applying the primer filler..(unless you have a baking booth.. and if you got one of
those.. WTF are you doing reading this....) this will allow for the filler to shrink.. It will.. it will prevent sand scratches from showing up in the
future.. at the same time sitting is helpful but not necessary... your call...
WASH AND W/G remover.. TACK RAG...
Primer sealer/ epoxy primer.. TRY to get it close to the color you are going to paint.. it will safe paint materials.. and$$..
apply as above with proper flash times...
light tack rag..
WET on WET.. that means.. after the second coat of sealer... comes the base coat... with proper flash time.. but with in tie coat limits.. usuall
35-50 minutes... ok.. spray one your base BUT!!! most base coats use a 75% overlap.. member this. OBTAIN good coverage.. pics up a coverage sticker at
your jobber store.. some paints take 2 coats... some take 8-10.. depends on the kind of color.... and it "hiding abilities.."
light tack rag...
WET ON WET.. again.. clear coat or SINGLE STAGE... I like and first coat with a light to medium wetness.. and a heavy second.. thats just me.. some go
med med.. or heavy light.. clear coats.. ONLY 2... IF you want more. let it dry.. wetsand with 600-800 and reclear... SUPER DEEP REALLY NICE finsih
product that way..
SINGLE STAGE.. stop when coverage is achieved..
He notes this is not a comprehensive explanation and steps may have been inadvertently omitted/simplified - so use it as a guide/introduction.
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fishysauce
Casual Dubber
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| posted on November 20th, 2005 at 09:06 PM |
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Hi Guys
thank you so much for the advise, you guys have been very helpful....thanks
Vince
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